Advice Needed on Engine Rebuild - 1FZ-FE (1995) (1 Viewer)

[nickolai]

Hi, new to the page and can’t work out how to make a new thread so going to post in here. How much boost can a standard 1FZ-FE handle not chasing crazy power just wanting a nice daily driveable car. I’ve had people tell me I’ll be able to get 250-300hp. Is this correct? I’m about to install a Link ECU in to control the turbo setup
Thank you

The best place to ask this question, given that your're in oz is here: 1FZ-FE turbo land cruisers | Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1488238461469417/

Most will probably say Haltech as there's more local support in Australia for that platform.

 

[SNLC]

For any of you DIY types.

I really recommend getting the proper tools. A bore gauge can be had for a few hundred bucks and if you will never use it again, sell it after the job.

The FSM tells you everything you need to know to check the engine over. A few tools and you are in business. You will still need a machine shop if things are out of specs but you will go to the machine shop educated not at their mercy. I also think it is fun to tear them down and go through all the checking procedures.

Also FYI, Toyota stamped numbers in the blocks, top and bottom. Top stamp will be for bores/pistons. Stamp on the bottom of the block is for crank bearings and stamp on the crank is for conrod bearings. These are a series of numbers, for example 222222 which can be referenced in the FSM for the specs. Each number can be checked to what you have and what the FSM specs it to. They are all six numbers except the crank bearings which is seven since the 1FZFE is a seven main bearings crank.

A bore gauge and good straight edge will be the most expensive tools needed but again, you can always sell these after the job if you will never use them again. When you measure the bores you measure at three locations. Make a chart and take notes of the specs, compare to the FSM. An engine that had good maintenance will have wear but it will be nice and even wear in the bores. You don’t want hourglass shaped bores or tapered bores.

Toyota doesn’t sell “standard” bearing sets because each engine is different. That is what the three sets of numbers on the block are all about. Maybe you got a 223222, that means the #3 conrod or bore is a #3. Or on the crank you may have a 2221222. So when you buy new bearings you buy the 2’s or 3’s of whatever. Toyota used 1-6 on these, only the 1 is NLA. Toyota specs are also down to the tenth and hundredth thousands so the difference say between a 1 and a 2 is like 4 hundredth thousands.

Toyota also designed the engines for three rebuilds. In general the first rebuild is a simple hone, re-rings, crank polish and fresh standard bearings for your engine. Next rebuild will be .50 over and last will be 1.00 over.

Assembly is also a lot of fun in my opinion and you can save some money assembling yourself vs having the machine shop assemble it. You may have to gap rings upon assembly if bored, not a very big deal if you take your time and follow the FSM. Use assembly lube or oil on everything during assembly.

Seems to me building your own short block can be a lot of fun, you will learn some things and have a lot of confidence when finished.

Last thing to note is if the head got shaved, the timing case top will protrude however much the head was shaved. This can cause you issues upon assembly. Best way to deal with this, have the machine shop shave the head with the timing case cover on it so both get the same amount removed.

Or just buy a new short block!

Cheers