Advice Needed on Engine Rebuild - 1FZ-FE (1995)

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Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
93
Location
Denver, CO
I'm in the process of sending the head to the machine shop this week and decided to tear down the block while I was in there for a potential deck/refresh. That being said, I would like some advice from the forum on what to do...

Overview - I was having issues with a misfire that turned out to be a dowel pin that decided to remove itself from the upper intake and make it's way into the #4 intake valve. I then found a great deal on a turbo, manifold, and spare engine so I figured "hey, let's build this for boost because, why not?". Here's where it gets interesting...

All of the cylinders looked great until I pulled #1 piston and saw this (see pictures below). I had the normal oil consumption, but no noise from any piston slap, knocking, etc. No scoring on the journals - the crank looks great.

My question/advice is which direction should I go? Is this block shot? Is my only option to bore the cylinders out and replace all pistons/rings? Have it honed and then replace rings? Bearings? Replace only that piston?

To answer the inevitable question that will follow, the answer is Yes. I've done a TON of research and have read through the turbo threads, several threads about boring over 1.00+, engine rebuilds, full LS swaps, etc. I would like to keep this Toyota engine in here but also don't want to spend a CRAZY amount of money rebuilding this unless it's the only option.

I will also seek the advice of the machine shop, but wanted to throw this out there to you all first.

Thank you all in advance,
Jeff

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Looks like boring. See if it will clean up .010 over. Then yeah new pistons and rings to the size it ends up. Bottom ends looks nice I’d say that could be crank clean. Maybe resize and bush the rods if they’re bushed on small end.
 
I’m in a similar boat but the bottom end isn’t happy on mine. Trying to get a decent refresh in for Cruise Moab.
 
I’m in a similar boat but the bottom end isn’t happy on mine. Trying to get a decent refresh in for Cruise Moab.
Yeah, I can *barely* feel a little indentation on the cylinder wall but the piston is definitely toast. I was planning on replacing all the rings, but was hoping to not have to replace all pistons.

If this turns out to be a .5 over or 1.00 over situation, I might just look into checking out the other block.
 
Yeah, I can *barely* feel a little indentation on the cylinder wall but the piston is definitely toast. I was planning on replacing all the rings, but was hoping to not have to replace all pistons.

If this turns out to be a .5 over or 1.00 over situation, I might just look into checking out the other block.

Have a machine shop check it out (unless you have a bore gauge and know how to use it). They can determine how deep that scoring is and how much wear the cylinder has in overall diameter, taper and roundness. The aggregate of those three will dictate what your options are. But if that scoring will clean up with .008" or less....then you are probably home free. Get a new piston for that cylinder, keep the others and re-ring all.

Of course.... a machine shop is going to want to do as much work as they can get out of you.....so don't be surprised if they just look at it say over bore. Without checking it out yourself....you don't really know. IF you do over bore....then you might as well go 1.00 and get all the displacement you can.

cyl bore tolerance.jpg
 
Have a machine shop check it out (unless you have a bore gauge and know how to use it). They can determine how deep that scoring is and how much wear the cylinder has in overall diameter, taper and roundness. The aggregate of those three will dictate what your options are. But if that scoring will clean up with .008" or less....then you are probably home free. Get a new piston for that cylinder, keep the others and re-ring all.

Of course.... a machine shop is going to want to do as much work as they can get out of you.....so don't be surprised if they just look at it say over bore. Without checking it out yourself....you don't really know. IF you do over bore....then you might as well go 1.00 and get all the displacement you can.

View attachment 2932554
My machinist was super honest. When he measured mine I fully expected him to tell me to bore; I had no way to know. When he called and said all cylinders are in spec, I was SO surprised/happy, a nice hone, good to go.
To the OP I hope you get someone as honest as my guy. If you're in N CA, I can connect you.
 
Have a machine shop check it out (unless you have a bore gauge and know how to use it). They can determine how deep that scoring is and how much wear the cylinder has in overall diameter, taper and roundness. The aggregate of those three will dictate what your options are. But if that scoring will clean up with .008" or less....then you are probably home free. Get a new piston for that cylinder, keep the others and re-ring all.

Of course.... a machine shop is going to want to do as much work as they can get out of you.....so don't be surprised if they just look at it say over bore. Without checking it out yourself....you don't really know. IF you do over bore....then you might as well go 1.00 and get all the displacement you can.

View attachment 2932554
^^^
What he said.

I would also have the crank polished and checked, then install new mains and rod bearings since you're going turbo as well as once you open and engine part, it never wears quite the same as it was before you took it apart. I would install new parts before I put it back together, but that's me.

Or, I'd seriously look at a new short block.
 
Have a machine shop check it out (unless you have a bore gauge and know how to use it). They can determine how deep that scoring is and how much wear the cylinder has in overall diameter, taper and roundness. The aggregate of those three will dictate what your options are. But if that scoring will clean up with .008" or less....then you are probably home free. Get a new piston for that cylinder, keep the others and re-ring all.

Of course.... a machine shop is going to want to do as much work as they can get out of you.....so don't be surprised if they just look at it say over bore. Without checking it out yourself....you don't really know. IF you do over bore....then you might as well go 1.00 and get all the displacement you can.

View attachment 2932554
@flintknapper I don't have a bore gauge, but do have a copy of the FSM and saw this section. I took everything to Gunn Automotive here in Denver - they come highly recommended, but are extremely busy. They are going to clean everything up and will let me know how the cylinders look. I would ideally like to just put new rings/bearings and go with it, but we'll see what they say.

Thanks for the info!
 
^^^
What he said.

I would also have the crank polished and checked, then install new mains and rod bearings since you're going turbo as well as once you open and engine part, it never wears quite the same as it was before you took it apart. I would install new parts before I put it back together, but that's me.

Or, I'd seriously look at a new short block.
@BILT4ME - the crank is good with no scoring on the journals. He believes it will clean up nicely without issue but will check all tolerances once it's polished. I was planning on new bearings to be safe and all pins were in spec - I'm guessing some contaminants worked their way into the cylinder or it overheated at some point before I took ownership. It looked like the HG at #1 was getting ready to fail.

I have another block that looks to be in good condition as well so I guess I'll wait to see what they find.
 
Tried parts soup for oem and it came up not available atm for the overhaul kit.
@Oneops - I ended up with a mixture of Partsouq and my local dealership for the gaskets, o-rings, etc. If you want, I can send you the parts lists.

I placed my order at Partsouq on the 17th, got notification that it shipped today, and should be here 2/28(we'll see if that is actually the case).

Are you in CO?
 
As I'm waiting for the machine shop to clean up the block and figure out how much they will need to hone the cylinders, I am trying to source new o/s pistons.

Does anyone have a good source other than Partsouq? The 1.00 o/s pistons are not currently available and I'm trying to find a relatively cheap solution. I'm going to end up with new rod bearings and main bearings so the costs are quickly spiraling out of control...

Thank you in advance!!
 
Hi, new to the page and can’t work out how to make a new thread so going to post in here. How much boost can a standard 1FZ-FE handle not chasing crazy power just wanting a nice daily driveable car. I’ve had people tell me I’ll be able to get 250-300hp. Is this correct? I’m about to install a Link ECU in to control the turbo setup
Thank you
 
Darb186,
If you are on Facebook there is an Aussie 1FZ turbo group that may be able to help.

This is worth a read, noting this kit is built for US market LHD OBDII vehicles. But a lot of the info translates directly down under. Bolt on turbo kit - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bolt-on-turbo-kit.992637/

For reference, check out the low-boost turbo mods on the Turboglide website. These are what can be expected for a bolt-on turbo upgrade with NO mods required to engine internals, fuel system, or ECUs.

Turboglide will only do the turbo upgrade in-house (no DIY) but I was recently quoted less than $9K for drive-in/drive-out installation. This includes intercooler, 3" exhaust, dynotuning before & after. IMO that's pretty good value, all things considered.

TG also 'hinted' that for most situations this setup would be safe using 94 E10 fuel. Heavy towing I'd be using 95 or 98 just to be safe.
 
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