lumbee1
Native American
I made a adjustable rear panhard for $31. I didn't need an adjustable panhard on the front.
Adjustable panhard bars for a lifted DD?
- Thread starter Lankan
- Start date
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running about 4" on 315's, front is fine, still on stock. Rear was pretty far off. I ordered a Dobinsons rear adjustable, it's pretty beefy. was about 220 shipped if I recall
I’m running the TJM adjustable bars both front and rear with a 3” Icon lift. I like the look of my axles centered and don’t wheel it excessively. It’s also maybe DD. Really happy with TJM overall. The only gripe I have is the single jam nut on the front bar. I’d love a second locking jam nut up front - something to add next time I have it off.
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COYS
SILVER Star
I ordered the ARB rear adjustable panhard bar from Slee. Do I need to order any bushings or other nuts/bolts to do it right? Thanks.
What is the best way to adjust the Panhards once you get them installed ? Are you taking a measurement from a fixed point on the frame or some other spot before the lift with the stock set up ? Just trying to figure out how to center the axles or am I over thinking it and you just eyeball it ?
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
Adam, did you have any axle clearance issues with this bar when you moved the axle forward 1.25"? (specifically your diff armor plate there...)
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
That image that was in my earlier post is not my truck and does not have the axle moved. Here's a shot of my truck with the axle moved. It looks much closer in this photo than it actually is.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr1.5" seems to be about the farthest you'd want to move the axle. It might work with as much as 2" forward but the draglink will start having clearance issues. 1.25" worked well for me to get the clearance I needed as well as getting the axle centered in the wheel arch, and didn't cause any concerns with steering link clearance.
The diff armor like the one in this photo wouldn't have any clearance issues with the axle moved 1.25"
BH_Panhard by Adam Tolman, on FlickrThis type of diff armor can work with minimal clearancing WITHOUT moving the axle forward. If you move the axle forward, this will NOT work.
jkeithw
Supporting Vendor
thanks!
Thread resurrection!!!!!
So I ordered an adjustable front panhard kit from landtank. I was going to do this mod because my front driver tire rubs worse than the passenger. My thinking was adjusting the front axle would help.
I'm running 2" Ironman springs with a 1" coil spacer in the front and I rub my 315's hard enough to slice them when I hit dips going to fast. I will be buying new tires soon and I want to get this fixed first.
So if I do decide to do this would I want to lengthen or shorten the front bar? In my minds eye it seems I would want to make it longer but I really don't know.
Other than removing the coils and stuffing the front axle to the stops how else can I determine how much to adjust the front bar?
Should I just forgo this mod and extend my front bumpstops an additional inch?
So I ordered an adjustable front panhard kit from landtank. I was going to do this mod because my front driver tire rubs worse than the passenger. My thinking was adjusting the front axle would help.
I'm running 2" Ironman springs with a 1" coil spacer in the front and I rub my 315's hard enough to slice them when I hit dips going to fast. I will be buying new tires soon and I want to get this fixed first.
So if I do decide to do this would I want to lengthen or shorten the front bar? In my minds eye it seems I would want to make it longer but I really don't know.
Other than removing the coils and stuffing the front axle to the stops how else can I determine how much to adjust the front bar?
Should I just forgo this mod and extend my front bumpstops an additional inch?
On my heep the 80 has stock bars.
I took the Panhard/track bar loose. And jounced the truck so it would sit at it natural position. Then adjust the length till u can get the bolt in.
I’d assume u could do the 80 in simple fashion.
@Spike info is interesting though I don’t know enough to really comment. But I’d agree centered when stuff is more important.
I took the Panhard/track bar loose. And jounced the truck so it would sit at it natural position. Then adjust the length till u can get the bolt in.
I’d assume u could do the 80 in simple fashion.
@Spike info is interesting though I don’t know enough to really comment. But I’d agree centered when stuff is more important.
When your suspension is stuffed and the tires are rubbing, what needs to happen with the panhard rod length to ease the rubbing? I would just do that in very small increments until problem solved.
With a lift the panhard rod angle is steepened, so suspension movement pulls/pushes the axle sideways more than when the rod is at the stock angle, which means you may need the axle to be off centered when the truck is sitting still. That seems to be what Spike discovered earlier in this thread for his rig, that the length added to compensate for the lift had to be taken back out to compensate for the effect of the steeper panhard angle on where the axle ends up when stuffed. Every rig would be different though. If you're on smaller tires/not rubbing, you can take some measurements and calculate a new theoretical length based on lift.
I would bolt some 1” spacers on top of the axle perch. Or put true 3” springs on the truck with out a spacer.
I think those 2” springs are a stock replacement with a softer rate than a 3” spring.
I think those 2” springs are a stock replacement with a softer rate than a 3” spring.
Well I have been thinking about this and here is my plan.
Because I am a cheap sob with a welder I will add an extra inch to my bump stops.
Than because I already have a spare panhard, new bushings, and the pan hard adjuster I am going to cut the panhard and weld it in, press in new bushings, and center the axle at ride height.
Hopefully the extra 1" on the bump stops will stop the rubbing. Than down the road if I pull the trigger on a 4" lift I will have the ability to fine tune the front axle.
Because I am a cheap sob with a welder I will add an extra inch to my bump stops.
Than because I already have a spare panhard, new bushings, and the pan hard adjuster I am going to cut the panhard and weld it in, press in new bushings, and center the axle at ride height.
Hopefully the extra 1" on the bump stops will stop the rubbing. Than down the road if I pull the trigger on a 4" lift I will have the ability to fine tune the front axle.
On topic w/ OP, I have a 4" lift + want to avoid rear axle side shift when towing at freeway speeds and bumps.
eimkeith PCK brackets such a nice kit to level, then went the step further to check out ebay adjustables ~$140/set. What turned up for me YMMV:
Front OEM orig 11 lbs Yellow Aftermarket 11 lbs
Rear OEM orig 6 lbs Yellow Aftermarket 9 lbs
Pleasant surprise front bushings had 48706-60030 marked on them, those run ~$30ea at my Toyota Parts counter. No idea if genuine:
eimkeith PCK brackets such a nice kit to level, then went the step further to check out ebay adjustables ~$140/set. What turned up for me YMMV:
Front OEM orig 11 lbs Yellow Aftermarket 11 lbs
Rear OEM orig 6 lbs Yellow Aftermarket 9 lbs
Pleasant surprise front bushings had 48706-60030 marked on them, those run ~$30ea at my Toyota Parts counter. No idea if genuine:
I’ve been wondering about those.
