Adding Air Conditioning to a 3B Diesel (1 Viewer)

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Just back to Mud after an extended hiatus, sorry to have neglected enquiries. For some reason I haven’t received any notifications until this last effort by AWhelen.

I sold the last of the extra brackets I had made almost right away. Although I thought I had saved my CAD files on a CD it seems to have disappeared! A change in computers has resulted in the loss of my original drawings.

The drawings posted by Montie appear to be a much improved modification on the dimensioned drawing that I had located on the internet and used for my brackets. The addition of the belt tensioner is far more sophisticated than the brace that I used. Having said that the brace has never been problematic.

It would appear that this is meant to mount directly on the face of the bosses on the front of the block. That was the source of a slight alignment issue. The solution was to cut the “arms”, overlap them by 1” to move the compressor forward by the thickness of the 3/8 plate and bring it closer to the block.

Because I don’t have my original drawings at hand I can’t say if Montie’s drawings have taken into account the alignment issue.

Hope this isn’t too late to be a help. I will try to be more diligent watching posts. I had actually thrown an ad up for my Cruise late last Fall but as the weather turned and our winter travel plans came into action I even failed to check on the ad (truthfully, I am torn about selling the old girl....my wife says we are “joined at the hip”).

There's no CAD file guys!
Read! FFS!
 
3B transplant

My transplant of a 3B into an FJ chassis gave me the opportunity to add AC to my 60 series. I found dimensioned drawings for the bracket as shown on the internet. Worked up a CAD file and had brackets laser cut.

The drive pulley is from a 3B with AC (acquired from 4Wheel Auto in Edmonton), it fits between the existing pulleys in place of the spacer you will find there. There is an idler pulley much the same as the PS idler that fits on the right side of the block but I didn't have any luck locating one so I simply ran a brace to one of the top bolts on the compressor (sorry, not installed in the picture).

A standard automotive V-Belt (15450) worked for the drive. An alignment issue arose during the install, if you are considering this option I can expand in more detail.

Also note that if you have an FJ chassis as I did then you have to change the AC amplifier to one from a diesel system in order to get the clutch to engage. AC amplifier for diesel does not have the idle adjustment screw on the top.

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I am doing this in a few months and need that bracket made. Do you have a drawing or a link to it?
 
Have you read this thread @heilanpiper ? The drawing & answer to your question is posted already by the person you’re quoting. Look for the most recent post from the mud member you’ve quoted.
 
Would be willing to share that CAD drawing. I have a 83 BJ60.
I have a 83 BJ60 and a 84 FJ60 with factory A/C, and will be amalgamating into the FJ as the body is mint. One option I have is to use the 2F A/C bracket and adapt but if you have a CAD drawing, I would like that.
 
The AC compressor bracket for the 2F is part of the engine mount and not compatible with the 3B motor.
 
The AC compressor bracket for the 2F is part of the engine mount and not compatible with the 3B motor.
I am aware that they are incompatible. Was planning on making an adapter to reuse it if possible. Have plasma cutter, MiG and TiG so will figure it out when I strip things down.
 
Let me see if I understand you correctly. You want to modify the cast 2F engine mount/compressor bracket by fabricating and welding something to it?

Why not use/improve the design you were initially inquiring about?

I’m sure you can sell that engine mount to someone wanting to install AC in a 2F equipped truck.
 
Let me see if I understand you correctly. You want to modify the cast 2F engine mount/compressor bracket by fabricating and welding something to it?

Why not use/improve the design you were initially inquiring about?

I’m sure you can sell that engine mount to someone wanting to install AC in a 2F equipped truck.
Not planning to hack up, but to make an adapter so that I can use the tensioner.
 
I just sold a complete 3B 40 series factory RHD A/C setup with a BJ42. I have no idea if the new owner plans to make use of it. I had the compressor bracket in my hands a week ago as we boxed everything up. I can ask him if he's willing to part with it or at least make it available so someone can copy it.
 
I have a 83 BJ60 and a 84 FJ60 with factory A/C, and will be amalgamating into the FJ as the body is mint. One option I have is to use the 2F A/C bracket and adapt but if you have a CAD drawing, I would like that.
I put non factory AC in my BJ73. Compressor is the same type used in 80's jeeps with universal threaded line fittings (cheapest on Amazon). My bracket therefore might be a bit different. It took me less than 1 hour to make using a sawzall, drill press, and welder. I don't have a picture right now, but process is as follows:
1. Get a piece of steel plate(3/16 or 1/4 big enough to engage at least 2 bolt holes on the lower right side of the engine (approx 3X6")
2. measure mark and drill bolt holes approx 1/8" bigger than necessary to allow for easier alignment.
3. Bolt plate to engine and ensure it is mostly square with the pulley/crankshaft(calibrated eyeball).
4. Get some bolts big enough for the pivot point on the compressor (maybe 3/8X5 1/2" ?)Pickup some steel bushings at the hardware store (3/8" to 1" and 1" long).
5. The bushings get welded to the plate as the pivot point for your compressor. (tack and check fitment and alignment before completely welding.) The mounting holes for the compressor pivot point should slide in over the bushings welded to the plate and the bolt goes through but not sloppy loose. When you crank down on the bolt it should squeeze the compressor mounting ears to the steel bushing tightly. If you have minor excess cast aluminum material on your compressor that inhibits rotation to tighten belt you can grind the interference off with a angle grinder. 6. For a adjustable tension bar I used the universal chrome alternator tension bar used on small block chevy's available at advance auto for about $15. It has a curved slot for your sliding adjustment and clamp bolt and a bolt hole in the other end. I put it in a vice and bent,cut, and twisted this bar until would route from a bolt on the front of my engine to the clamping bolt on the AC compressor. You tighten the belt by loosening the bolts and use a pry bar between the engine and compressor to get it tight then crank down the bolts.

If you are familiar with the whole obtain a cad cam file supply to a CNC machine shop to have your part built then that would certainly be alot better looking nicer way to get this done. It's pretty hard to see when it is mounted. So it's not worth getting hung up on if you want to get your AC completed. If you can weld you can make it with simple tools by hand, eye, ruler, and marker..............My tensioner is ugly but it works and has been there 5000miles without problem. With some imagination and more time you could make a better tensioner. I wracked my brain for a couple hours looking at it wondering how to cut weld and get it around the curves to fit before I said to myself: "It's 1X1/4" bar stock just lock it in the vice heat and bend/twist/beat it with hammer to the right shape" Took me 10 minutes to make it work once I decided on the simple blacksmith method.
 
I have the 3B compressor bracket & pulley tensioner. I’d be willing to get it reproduced but I’m worried I’d out the production costs and a pile of reproductions parts.

Any thoughts on getting it digitally scanned? Would it be feasible to have the digital model available for 3D sintered parts?
 
I have the 3B compressor bracket & pulley tensioner. I’d be willing to get it reproduced but I’m worried I’d out the production costs and a pile of reproductions parts.

Any thoughts on getting it digitally scanned? Would it be feasible to have the digital model available for 3D sintered parts?
I am curious how much this sort of thing cost: Digital scanning and 3D printing a metal part(cost, time, and quality of the part). A simple crude part like this takes about $15 in steel and hardware+2-3 hours of labor to go shopping for material and to fabricate with a welder and simple shop tools.........I"m curious the time and money required to scan and "squirt it out of a machine".
 
@robmobile73 are you referring to a wax mold and casting the part?
No I was referring to 3D scanning the part with a 3D laser scanner and then having it 3D metal printed.... And this is only out of curiosity mind you. When I read some comments on these forums from tech savvy people it makes me wonder if this sort of process is common and easily available now.
I am familiar with a number of different molding and casting methods. Silicone mold to reproduce part in either foam or wax. Then a one time mold over that and use lost foam or lost wax method for casting. Neither of those methods would be easier or cheaper than "blacksmithing" a mount with hand tools welder and Hammer.... And the questions are only out of curiosity.
Often times I see young tech savvy people trying to use a very complex digitized method to accomplish a very simple task because they are more familiar doing that than working with their hands. like using a computer and a spreadsheet to make a grocery list instead of just writing it down on a piece of paper....
 
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