AC Compressor Replacement - Climate Control System Error (1 Viewer)

[baggar11]

Getting a "Climate Control System Error" message on the Display. Pulled Techstream codes and got a B1422 for the "Compressor Lock Sensor Circuit." Sure enough, clutch is almost locked up.

VIDEO

From what I gather, looks like a pretty straight forward compressor and condenser replacement(since condenser has integrated drier). Am I missing anything? Misdiagnosis? Anyone else pulled a compressor? Looks like Tundra guys pull it through driver side wheel well. If it's anything like the alternator pull, which I had to pull it through the top(between radiator/engine). Wasn't enough room through the slightly smaller LX/LC frame. Is Denso the way to go here? I'm a little surprised it only lasted 12 years. I'm still on the original compressor on my '94 LC.

 

[bloc]

Can you change just the clutch and leave the compressor in place to avoid having to open the system?

I seem to remember someone pulling the clutch pulley to make doing the fan bearing bracket change easier. Could be wrong about that though.

 

[baggar11]

Interesting, didn't know that was possible. Any idea on how to source the compressor bearing and related parts?

 

[bloc]

The diagrams show 88410-6A090 as the part number for the clutch assy on a 2011 LX

90099-07065
90099-07114
88335-14020
All look like small parts you should probably get to do the job.

Not sure if any kind of puller or whatever is necessary

 

[Boston Mangler]

The diagrams show 88410-6A090 as the part number for the clutch assy on a 2011 LX

90099-07065
90099-07114
88335-14020
All look like small parts you should probably get to do the job.

Not sure if any kind of puller or whatever is necessary

View attachment 3297138

Having replaced several AC clutches (not on a 200 though) a puller is almost always needed.

Usually a tapered fit with a keyway.

I have used dirtbike flywheel puller tools with great success because they are short and fit in the engine bay easily.

 

[baggar11]

@bloc Thanks for the part numbers. Definitely going to give this a go.

@Boston Mangler I'm not too familiar with atv/bike flywheel pullers. I pulled up a couple on amazon and looks like they are meant to thread into the inside of the pulley, right? I'll have to wait until I get the assembly kit in to see if that possible on these Denso units.

 

[bloc]

FSM uses a SST 09985-00270 to hold the hub stationary while loosening the nut but doesn't mention any special tool being needed to remove the hub from the shaft.

Not that it'll just come right apart.. but without provision for a factory tool I don't know if the flywheel puller will work.

 

[baggar11]

Before I pull the trigger on the clutch assembly rebuild kit, anyway to know for certain that something inside is borked and the whole unit just needs to be replaced overall?

 

[bloc]

I’d see whether I can move the swash plate by hand. If that’s inconclusive remove belt (much easier from bottom after removing skids with impact gun, and have access to pin the tensioner back) then see whether the pulley spins without the hub or not.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Have you driven through any deep mud or water recently?

Maybe there’s just gunk in the clutch and it just needs a cleaning.

When you start the truck can you see the pulley moving, as in it’s engaged or is it flowing freely?

I’m kind of agreeing with you as it seems odd this only lasted 12 years…

As for the dirt bike flywheel puller, yes, for some dirt bikes it threads in, but for removing AC clutches off York compressors, we would just get it tight on the shaft and apply a LITTLE pressure and they’d pop right off. YMMV

 

[kcjaz]

Can you change just the clutch and leave the compressor in place to avoid having to open the system?

I seem to remember someone pulling the clutch pulley to make doing the fan bearing bracket change easier. Could be wrong about that though.

I pulled the compressor clutch off to gain access to a bracket bolt when I was doing the fan bearing bracket. It wasn’t too hard. No pulley puller needed. There are some small shims that space the pulley so the magnetic clutch will work. They will likely fall out when you remove the pulley and it would be easy not to notice or lose them. Clutch won’t work with out them.

 

[bloc]

I pulled the compressor clutch off to gain access to a bracket bolt when I was doing the fan bearing bracket. It wasn’t too hard. No pulley puller needed. There are some small shims that space the pulley so the magnetic clutch will work. They will likely fall out when you remove the pulley and it would be easy not to notice or lose them. Clutch won’t work with out them.

Sounds like it was a splined shaft then?

 

[bloc]

More info on setting clutch clearance and shaft bolt torque

 

[kcjaz]

Sounds like it was a splined shaft then?

Yes. A snap ring holds the clutch pulley on the shaft (after you get the bolt out). The shims/washers space the pulley axially on the shaft. The FSM shows this (your pic above) and there is a thread on here with more detail. Lord knows I didn’t t figure it out by myself! Mine only have two shims/washers.

Water Pump Replacement

Great idea to stick the bolts in a diagram on the box. :idea:

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[baggar11]

Have you driven through any deep mud or water recently?

Maybe there’s just gunk in the clutch and it just needs a cleaning.

When you start the truck can you see the pulley moving, as in it’s engaged or is it flowing freely?

I’m kind of agreeing with you as it seems odd this only lasted 12 years…

As for the dirt bike flywheel puller, yes, for some dirt bikes it threads in, but for removing AC clutches off York compressors, we would just get it tight on the shaft and apply a LITTLE pressure and they’d pop right off. YMMV

I edited my original post to make the video link a little more clear. In it you can see the pulley wobble quite a bit and the clutch trying real hard to spin. No water crossings down here in AZ recently. Just the wife driving to and fro work. I had that happen on the alternator last year though. Next time I started the truck after hunting some puddles, the alternator threw a light on the dash.

I just got back from removing the drive belt around the compressor pulley. The pulley spins, but it's got a gnarly wobble. Doesn't sound great either. Like the bearings are shot. I can move the clutch by hand, but it's scraping the pulley. My guess is that the bearings went on the pulley and caused it to move forward slightly, and in doing so is contacting the clutch 100% now. I also popped the cap off the low side pressure port and released a little bit. System still seems like it has pressure. Other than that, no visual signs of oil leaking out of the compressor.

What do you guys think? Roll the dice on a clutch assembly kit? Or go full replacement?

 

[bloc]

What do you guys think? Roll the dice on a clutch assembly kit? Or go full replacement?

I’d do the clutch assembly. That’ll replace the pulley bearing and I agree it sounds like that’s what is shot.

Alternately you can put gauges on it to see if the compressor seems healthy before ordering the clutch. It wouldn’t have been cycling to keep pressures down but the whole system is pretty robust.

 

[baggar11]

Happy to report back that the clutch assembly repair was a success. Ended up pulling the fan clutch and shroud to get more room to work in. After everything came out, it was obvious the pulley bearings grendaded causing catastrophic contact with both the magnet and clutch. The magnet had lost it's keyway and was free spinning, which had also ripped off the wiring harness. I had to use a pulley puller to get the original pulley off, but the new one slid on without much resistance. Overall, took me about 4 hours to complete in the driveway. I work slow though so you're mileage may vary. Glad I didn't have to pull for a new compressor + condenser. Pretty slick fix for about $135.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Excellent

 

[bloc]

Nice work, thanks for posting follow up.

 

[baggar11]

UPDATE: Well, along with the aforementioned pulley swap, I had been having a Jetson's/Chitty Chitty Bang Bang sound that would come and go with the compressor cycling. It never really went away after I swapped on the new clutch. I figured the compressor would probably fail at some point but would drive it until then. Just so happens, over the weekend the AC stopped blowing cold. Popped the hood and I can see the clutch mostly frozen again. Pretty sure something inside the compressor is causing excess drag and killing clutches. I've got a new compressor on order. I'll report back after it's been swapped.