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Adding to the water pump removal thread. Pretty straight forward job. Just some hard to reach clamps/nuts. There is one bolt that is hard to reach/take off and even harder to put back without removing the compressor pulley. Not sure people that have done this job remove pulley or just struggle thru the very tight space. In order to get to the pump you have to remove a whole bunch on rubber hoses and metal bypass hoses. One such metal hose has 3 bolts mounting it to the engine block. One of the three is the one I am talking bout. Here is a pic of the bolt and the pulley/clutch you remove from the compressor to make the removal and install of bolt a breeze. It is a 10mm bolt that holds on the pulley and then there is special different looking snap ring, that's it.. Here is the pics:
Not sure how to or how long it would take to remove the whole compressor, but removing the 10mm bolt and the snap ring took all of approx 2 mins... Just make sure to position the snap ring pliers directly to the 2 points on the snap ring.. Be careful not to lose a very small 1/4" washer that will slide out behind the pulley...I'm collecting parts to do this job. Thanks for the heads up. Wondering if it wouldn't be easier to undo the whole compressor? I haven't worked on this motor yet, but usually there's 2-3 large bolts and/or studs and it moves rather easily?
I started to try to remove my compressor pulley today and got clutch part off and found two little washers in the splined hole. Then I discovered the snap ring and had to stop because I didn’t have a snap ring pliers. Can you clarify what you are saying above about the combination of washers you used? Did you add an additional washer in the splined hole to hold the clutch out a little further? Just wondering if that’s what happened sometime before on my compressor pulley. I’ve never had it apart.Feedback and a question:
- Removing the bolt behind the compressor pulley is not required to complete the job. You can get a open-ended wrench in there and back the bolt out about 2/3 of the way without difficulty. With the two upper bolts for the pipes removed and the upper hoses disconnected you have plenty of wiggle room to get things done. The lower fan bracket bolts require a sequence to get them in but its not a problem. To be clear you do need to flex the tubes a small amount and should be careful that you don't crimp them. Those with good mechanical sensitivity will know the difference between spring and bending. If you're not replacing the fan bracket then it doesn't even require that much movement.
- I did try to follow the above and remove the pulley. At least with my snap ring pliers I couldn't get a purchase on the eyes without coming at them straight on which can only be done with the radiator out. Removing the radiator makes the whole job easier, though you do lose about 3 tablespoons of ATF. Getting the 10mm bolt is fairly easy and requires a strap wench to hold the outer clutch wheel. And it should be underscored to NOT LOSE the washer that lives inside the clutch splines! This is critical to space the clutch from the free spooling pulley. I couldn't, however, get the pulley to come off even with the snap ring removed. Is there a trick? Everything else on my truck is very much rust free so I don't think it was corrosion. The frustrating part is that I think it did move outboard a few thousandths because when the clutch was reinstalled it completely engaged and did not allow the pulley to spin! After spending a good deal of time troubleshooting I found a combination of washers in spare parts bin that added about 0.5 mm to the spacing and the A/C now engages as expected. I'm guessing that my fiddling dislodged some crud that prevented the pulley from seating back all the way. Anyway, I'm just curious as to what the trick was to get it to come off?
Well, think I found it. Looks like Toyota 99556-20200 heater hose. I suppose I just have to cut it to length.Good thread guys. Does anyone know the part number for the small hose that connects to the thermostat housing? It's stamped K120413 but I can't find anything online. It's the hose he references at 4:20 in this very informative video: Youtube Video . It was a tight space and I tried removing it before watching the video and tore the dang thing.
Pics from my 2013 replacement to show the hose. Doing the belt, upper and lower radiator hoses, tensioner pully, water pump and pully, and thermostat.
View attachment 3155465
View attachment 3155466
View attachment 3155467
That is the part number I show in my diagrams.Well, think I found it. Looks like Toyota 99556-20200 heater hose. I suppose I just have to cut it to length.
Bringing this one to the top. Doing water pump on wife's LX570 and making sure I have all the parts.
Here is what i have so far,
16100-09491 water pump assembly
16031-0S010 inlet sub-assembly with thermostat
90916-A2033 serpentine belt
16620-0S012 drive belt tensioner
16603-38012 drive belt pulley
99556-20200 heater hose
I'll need coolant, but other than that am I missing anything. Plan to knock this out next weekend if I can get all the parts here.
@Mogwai
@Bama4door does this list look complete?
Thanks in advance
I think you're missing the fan bracket, I posted a table recently with everything needed plus the two heater hose assemblies that have the Heater Ts.Bringing this one to the top. Doing water pump on wife's LX570 and making sure I have all the parts.
Here is what i have so far,
16100-09491 water pump assembly
16031-0S010 inlet sub-assembly with thermostat
90916-A2033 serpentine belt
16620-0S012 drive belt tensioner
16603-38012 drive belt pulley
99556-20200 heater hose
I'll need coolant, but other than that am I missing anything. Plan to knock this out next weekend if I can get all the parts here.
@Mogwai
@Bama4door does this list look complete?
Thanks in advance
Link to table?I think you're missing the fan bracket, I posted a table recently with everything needed plus the two heater hose assemblies that have the Heater Ts.
Link to table?
Item | PN |
Radiator | 16400-50384 |
Upper hose | 16571-38080 |
Lower hose | 16572-38131 |
Thermostat | 16031-0S010 |
Water pump | 16100-09491 |
Serp tensioner | 16620-0S012 |
Idler pulley | 16603-38012 |
Water P Gasket (Apparently not needed... WP comes with a gasket...) | 16271-38020 (Comes w WP) |
Serp belt | 90916-A2033 |
Thermostat housing gasket | Comes with T-Stat |
Fan support bearing | 16380-0S010 |