AC Compressor Bearing Replament

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Just a thought: If the bearing is not shot but just dried up, you can also re-pack it with grease. I have done this many times on the idler and tensioner pulley bearings. We have an LS, GX and LX. Combined age is 47 years and they all have the original bearings. I repack them with every T-belt job. Repacked OEM bearings seem to outlast any other solution (except for new OEM).

  1. Remove the dust shield with a dental pick
  2. Wash out the bearing with brake cleaner and dry
  3. Repack the bearing with your preferred (syntethic) grease
  4. Re-install the dust shield
 
@white_lx

Very nice! Thanks for that. Gonna do this and order the bearing as a backup in case i fubar the job. Then return the item. :)
 
white_lx said:
Just a thought: If the bearing is not shot but just dried up, you can also re-pack it with grease.
Click to expand...

Good call, just did this instead of ordering the Nachi above. I always wanted to try drilling a small hole and pumping the dry bearing full of grease, never realized how easily those seals come out. Works great, only thing I'd say to others wanting to go this route is to put less grease in than you'll think you need. I overfilled mine and it was a pain getting the last section of cage snapped back in, fighting the hydraulic pressure. Also feels a bit stiffer than a new bearing would, from overfilling, which will prob cost me a small fraction of a HP/MPG.
 
I didn't take pics. Took 10 or 15 mins tops, not counting the time I left it sitting to dry out and did other things. Used one of the picks from the $2 Harbor Freight set and a needle tip for the grease gun to shoot it into the the far side of the bearing, though that's prob not really necessary.
 
sleepycruiser said:
I wonder if the bearing could be my issue. AC works great but compressor makes a crazy sound. Looks like the pulley is wobbling when engaged. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Probably. Take the belt off and check pulley for noise and wobble. If wobbling it's probably too late to reagrease and should be replaced. Excluding some wheel bearings etc with adjustable preload.
 
jbtvt said:
Lefty loose-y. Hold pulley with filter strap wrench if you don't have an impact. If it's like the 4Runners you push/pull the clutch off with next size up bolt, or the SST - How to: A/C for your 3.4 swap - YotaTech Forums
Click to expand...


What does he mean by;

Once you remove the 10mm nut from the center of the clutch, you'll notice that the outter hole is threaded. Use a slightly larger screw and put it back into the hole, and it pulls the outter clutch part off.

Is the LC clutch the same and what size bolt should I use?
 
Don't know about LC. No FSM? 97 and 90 4Runners are the same. It was a 12mm head bolt, prob M8 shaft I guess, don't know pitch. Any 12mm bolt from elsewhere on your LC should work if yours is like that, I just grabbed one from hardware pile. They make an SST - 07112–66040 , just need a bolt though
 
I was able to pull the front cover off but i cant get the snap ring to come up off. It opens but not enough it seems...

I bought craftsman snap ring pliers but i think it cant get it open enough for me to pull it over the compressor shaft. Do i need snap ring pliers that can open wider? I will buy a needle adapter for my grease gun and try inserting needle into rubber bearing cover and see if that works. Maybe it will buy me a little more time. Worse case ill need to take it to my mechanic and has him replace the bearing.
 
just use a small screwdriver to pry it up and work it around the shaft, that's why it's the weird shape. Don't need the pliers at all.

Don't put a hole in your dust seal or you'll have to patch it, and there's a plastic cage right under it anyway. You'd do more harm than good. I pulled the cage out to get more grease in throughout the bearing which the guy in the vid didn't do but it was a little tricky getting back in, not really necessary maybe
 
Have not thought of that. I have small computer screwdrivers i can use. Ill try in the morning... ty!
 
You know a brand new bearing (already greased, zero wear, no muss...no fuss) is like $20.00

www.autozone.com

Santech A/C Clutch Bearing MT2027

Shop for Santech A/C Clutch Bearing MT2027 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com

Pluck your old one, put in the new....good to go.
 
flintknapper said:
You know a brand new bearing (already greased, zero wear, no muss...no fuss) is like $20.00

www.autozone.com

Santech A/C Clutch Bearing MT2027

Shop for Santech A/C Clutch Bearing MT2027 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.
www.autozone.com

Pluck your old one, put in the new....good to go.
Click to expand...


I have the bearing you recommended already. Just having a little trouble getting snap ring out. It’s a really tight area to get a good angle.

I’ll try a screw driver or long skinny pliers in morning.
 
bucfl said:
I have the bearing you recommended already. Just having a little trouble getting snap ring out. It’s a really tight area to get a good angle.

I’ll try a screw driver or long skinny pliers in morning.
Click to expand...

The external snap ring? Or the internal ring on the back?

SR.webp
 
Thanks @flintknapper I i was able to remove the snap ring with pick tool. I put everything back together but still have a slight grind and wobble.

Is it the compressor?
 
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