ABS/LSPV Delete Question

[mjeckell]

In removing the ABS and LSPV from a 80 series, will it throw a CEL. I live in California and that would effect passing smog with CEL on. I know when removing the the ABS, the ABS light will be on and can be fixed by pulling the bulb in dash. Any Cali vehicles with this mod.

thanks

Matt

 

[dallen341]

Does not throw CEL. Does illuminate ABS light but has never been an issue for smog

 

[77mustard40]

Best mod I’ve done to my 80, night and day difference in brake performance. No CEL’s for me but the ABS light will be there to deal with.

Edit this is the thread I followed …

Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...

I finally had some time to get to this today. Figured I would take some pictures and do a write up. There is plenty of info here, but it is a bit scattered. This will go from the start to the end. Is it worth it? Absolutely! For all those that complain about the brakes, we have plenty of...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[OffRoadScott]

Been running for years w/o the ABS unit and LSPV and no issues passing emissions. Just remove the bulb in the dash.

 

[Outsane]

If you disconnect the abs ecu in the left side kick panel. The light may go off, it did in my 97. But maybe you have to pull the fuse also in the engine bay.

 

[flintknapper]

If you disconnect the abs ecu in the left side kick panel. The light may go off, it did in my 97. But maybe you have to pull the fuse also in the engine bay.

Disconnect only did not do anything on my '97. Ultimately had to pull the bulb.

But I will say the ABS/LSPV delete is the BEST thing ever for my brakes. I can actually stop now. For where I live, drive and for my needs....ABS was absolutely not necessary and not working worth a damn.

I am not advocating everyone make that 'mod'...but it sure made a difference for me.

 

[Outsane]

So I Pulled the relays for the ABS and the light on the dash went away.

Yes I don't want to pull the cluster..

Yes my D light is out


Thanks @Delta VS for the sticker

 

[alia176]

Disconnect only did not do anything on my '97. Ultimately had to pull the bulb.

But I will say the ABS/LSPV delete is the BEST thing ever for my brakes. I can actually stop now. For where I live, drive and for my needs....ABS was absolutely not necessary and not working worth a damn.

I am not advocating everyone make that 'mod'...but it sure made a difference for me.

100% agreed, brakes are TONS better. On a recent trip, for the first time, I had to slam on the brakes in order to avoid a rear ender. To my surprise, I heard the front tires squeal a little. Or maybe it was me squealing in glee because I panic stopped like a normal car?

 

[sbman]

Does anyone that's done an ABS delete still have their unit sitting around? I'm looking for one I can take apart and get to the bottom of why it seems to cause a soft pedal and poor braking performance on my 97.

I just finished up a full brake job on my 80. Included a master cylinder rebuild, all calipers rebuild, new pads, hardware and shims. I bought a pressure bleeder and adapter for the Toyota master cylinder. Did the bench bleeding, used all OEM parts, master cylinder kit, caliper kits, even pads and shims were OEM. Was feeling pretty good about myself. I cycled the ABS system while pressure bleeding at all 5 points and all the air seems to be out.

However even after all that, I still have a fairly soft pedal and it 'sinks' as you hold pressure, like I'd expect from a bad master cylinder, just like it did before all the work. Something is letting the pressure off. The harder you push, the faster it sinks. I'd believe it to be air in the system if it was just spongy, but it starts out a bit firm and then sinks to the floor slowly. A 100% effort panic stop does not activate the ABS or achieve any form of wheel lock up on dry pavement with my 285/75/16 tires. I know now mostly what it isn't and that only leaves the ABS unit. If you've got one you don't want anymore, I'd like to get my hands on it.

 

[gorbilax]

@sbman Did you replace your booster? I’ve been chasing the intermittent soft pedal issue for years and the booster is the only thing I haven’t replaced - done calipers, master cyl, lspv, and abs pump with no improvement… booster is next on my list when I have the cash. If that doesn’t do it, I give up and I’m deleting the ABS…

 

[Ashwell]

@sbman Did you replace your booster? I’ve been chasing the intermittent soft pedal issue for years and the booster is the only thing I haven’t replaced - done calipers, master cyl, lspv, and abs pump with no improvement… booster is next on my list when I have the cash. If that doesn’t do it, I give up and I’m deleting the ABS…

A bad booster generally results in a stiff pedal and not soft.

 

[alia176]

Does anyone that's done an ABS delete still have their unit sitting around? I'm looking for one I can take apart and get to the bottom of why it seems to cause a soft pedal and poor braking performance on my 97.

I just finished up a full brake job on my 80. Included a master cylinder rebuild, all calipers rebuild, new pads, hardware and shims. I bought a pressure bleeder and adapter for the Toyota master cylinder. Did the bench bleeding, used all OEM parts, master cylinder kit, caliper kits, even pads and shims were OEM. Was feeling pretty good about myself. I cycled the ABS system while pressure bleeding at all 5 points and all the air seems to be out.

However even after all that, I still have a fairly soft pedal and it 'sinks' as you hold pressure, like I'd expect from a bad master cylinder, just like it did before all the work. Something is letting the pressure off. The harder you push, the faster it sinks. I'd believe it to be air in the system if it was just spongy, but it starts out a bit firm and then sinks to the floor slowly. A 100% effort panic stop does not activate the ABS or achieve any form of wheel lock up on dry pavement with my 285/75/16 tires. I know now mostly what it isn't and that only leaves the ABS unit. If you've got one you don't want anymore, I'd like to get my hands on it.

Your approach is rock solid, bummer the issue still exists. I bet someone in this thread has one laying around, but I gave mine away, unfortunately.

 

[lumbee1]

A soft pedal is typically from air in the ABS pump. I had this issue and could not resolve it so I deleted the pump. No ragrets.

 

[alia176]

A soft pedal is typically from air in the ABS pump. I had this issue and could not resolve it so I deleted the pump. No ragrets.

the guy is asking for your old ABS pump, got one?

 

[lumbee1]

the guy is asking for your old ABS pump, got one?

If someone gave me a UPS shipping label, I will find a box and toss it in the mail.

 

[alia176]

If someone gave me a UPS shipping label, I will find a box and toss it in the mail.

well, that's a great solution!!!

 

[sbman]

@sbman Did you replace your booster? I’ve been chasing the intermittent soft pedal issue for years and the booster is the only thing I haven’t replaced - done calipers, master cyl, lspv, and abs pump with no improvement… booster is next on my list when I have the cash. If that doesn’t do it, I give up and I’m deleting the ABS…

No I left the booster alone, I tested it according to the FSM and it appears to be airtight.

 

[smittycrusher]

If someone gave me a UPS shipping label, I will find a box and toss it in the mail.

I am happy to do the same with the one I removed this weekend from my son's 95'. I believe his was working just fine when we took it out, but his booster was bad so we went a head and replaced MC, Booster, LSPV and ABS and added a Wilwood manual PV since all of that was on my list anyways. His cruiser stops soooo much better now.

Smitty

 

[Bax454]

Does anyone that's done an ABS delete still have their unit sitting around? I'm looking for one I can take apart and get to the bottom of why it seems to cause a soft pedal and poor braking performance on my 97.

I just finished up a full brake job on my 80. Included a master cylinder rebuild, all calipers rebuild, new pads, hardware and shims. I bought a pressure bleeder and adapter for the Toyota master cylinder. Did the bench bleeding, used all OEM parts, master cylinder kit, caliper kits, even pads and shims were OEM. Was feeling pretty good about myself. I cycled the ABS system while pressure bleeding at all 5 points and all the air seems to be out.

However even after all that, I still have a fairly soft pedal and it 'sinks' as you hold pressure, like I'd expect from a bad master cylinder, just like it did before all the work. Something is letting the pressure off. The harder you push, the faster it sinks. I'd believe it to be air in the system if it was just spongy, but it starts out a bit firm and then sinks to the floor slowly. A 100% effort panic stop does not activate the ABS or achieve any form of wheel lock up on dry pavement with my 285/75/16 tires. I know now mostly what it isn't and that only leaves the ABS unit. If you've got one you don't want anymore, I'd like to get my hands on it.

If this is still needed, I have at least one as well.
-Ty

 

[rhc404]

cycled the ABS system while pressure bleeding at all 5 points and all the air seems to be out.

I've read that the seals inside the ABS module deteriorate resulting in it being unable to effectively pump air out when the ABS is cycled during a fluid swap.