ABS/LSPV Delete Question

[RobE30]

No I left the booster alone, I tested it according to the FSM and it appears to be airtight.

There was a guy in the bmw e30 community who was disassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and rebuilding the ABS pump for the e30 era BMWs. It was amazing how funky those pump insides were, ports were clogged, corrosion etc. I think he was selling them for $800-$1,000?

I'm curious to see what you come up with if you end up rebuilding a pump.

 

[alia176]

I finally got to lock up the rear on a panic stop this am. The roads were damp from overnight rains and I slid a tiny bit. That was cool!! The folks ahead of me slammed on their brakes too and I can't imagine looking at the rear view mirror and seeing that ARB bumper approaching fast!! The only one other time I heard a slight squeal from the rear was on a panic stop on the hwy and the pavement was bone dry. So, everything is working perfectly w/o a proportioning valve so far.

 

[Malleus]

I am happy to do the same with the one I removed this weekend from my son's 95'. I believe his was working just fine when we took it out, but his booster was bad so we went a head and replaced MC, Booster, LSPV and ABS and added a Wilwood manual PV since all of that was on my list anyways. His cruiser stops soooo much better now.

Smitty

When you say you replaced the parts you listed, did you mean to say that you replaced the ABS pump, or that you removed it? If you repalced it, what did you replace it with?

 

[Malleus]

Does anyone that's done an ABS delete still have their unit sitting around? I'm looking for one I can take apart and get to the bottom of why it seems to cause a soft pedal and poor braking performance on my 97.

I just finished up a full brake job on my 80. Included a master cylinder rebuild, all calipers rebuild, new pads, hardware and shims. I bought a pressure bleeder and adapter for the Toyota master cylinder. Did the bench bleeding, used all OEM parts, master cylinder kit, caliper kits, even pads and shims were OEM. Was feeling pretty good about myself. I cycled the ABS system while pressure bleeding at all 5 points and all the air seems to be out.

However even after all that, I still have a fairly soft pedal and it 'sinks' as you hold pressure, like I'd expect from a bad master cylinder, just like it did before all the work. Something is letting the pressure off. The harder you push, the faster it sinks. I'd believe it to be air in the system if it was just spongy, but it starts out a bit firm and then sinks to the floor slowly. A 100% effort panic stop does not activate the ABS or achieve any form of wheel lock up on dry pavement with my 285/75/16 tires. I know now mostly what it isn't and that only leaves the ABS unit. If you've got one you don't want anymore, I'd like to get my hands on it.

I'm working to resolve this same problem on two of my 80s, one '94 (same syptoms as you described) and the other a '95 (not as bad, but not good either).

Curious as to what you ended up with.

 

[smittycrusher]

When you say you replaced the parts you listed, did you mean to say that you replaced the ABS pump, or that you removed it? If you repalced it, what did you replace it with?

I am sorry for the confusion, I re-read and see the error in what I wrote. We did remove the ABS pump completely.

Smitty