ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX

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Just replaced my pump motor over the weekend. Found a wrecked 2000 LX and swapped in it's old (but functional) motor to get my LX back on the road. I am sending my non- functional motor out to that company in CA to get rebuilt. When it comes back, I am going to yank my master cylinder yet again and replace the used unit with the freshly rebuilt one.

Also, the motor harness connector on the bottom of the ABS module was REALLY corroded. I installed new screws and nuts, but it was a real PITA...

Pics:

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The two screws holding the wire on the bottom of the ABS unit rusting is interesting.

I recently replaced the ABS for a local mud members 98LC w/150K. I saw the same rust.
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I clean up the wires and install them on the replacement ABS unit. I added some dielectric grease in hopes to give some future protection from rust.
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It was a clean 98LC, not some rust bucket. I became concerned The King, The Unicorn & The black Knight my also have this condition.

So I grabbed my mirror and a flashlight and started inspecting them. The King first, be the oldest, and have repeatedly cleaned the engine compartment over 14 year, I fear the worst. My thinking was power-washing was filling the boot covering the wires with water. I'm happy to report; The King's were not rusty. The Black Knight also looked good.

But The Unicorn I'm not sure what I'm seeing, either rust or someone coated with a grease. So I'll be pulling master unit assembly to inspect closer.
Wires on bottom of ABS unit.jpg
 
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I’m thinking that when it comes time to have to pull the master to rebuild it and replace the pump, would that not also be a good time to rebuild the calipers and rubber break lines so everything is fresh? If so would anything have to be done except pulling everything and making sure the metal lines don’t get contaminated?
 
Prep for a booster pump replacement.

Yes, I rebuild my master when I did the job. Impressive getting the booster out without taking the master. However removing the master was the easiest part and only took 10 minutes. Gave me the opportunity to rebuild the master (easy) and do a brake fluid flush at the same time.

I'll probably take the master off our other LX this winter to inspect the booster and flush the fluid since it's on my list to PM this year.

FYI-the booster is working great and truck is about to turn 300k.

Hi, when you say "Prep for a booster pump replacement" is that just the booster pump, or is it the pump motor, or does they come as one unit? Thanks,
Chuck
 
All:

I put a used booster pump in my LX until my original unit gets back from being rebuilt. When I put it back in within a few weeks, I will have a spare core we can pass around here.

Whoever PM's me first has dibs. Just make sure to pay it forward :cool:

ETA: I am refering to the motor...
 
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I replaced the Booster pump and still have the same noise. I'm going to try the accumulator next I guess?



What does it do if you perform the brake booster test where you pump the brakes key off 30- 40 times (pedal will become softer) and then turn the key to the on position to time how long it takes for the booster to refill.

Also see some pages from the FSM that may help troubleshoot.....

BRAKE BOOSTER PUMP TEST.jpg

Troubleshooting chart:

TROUBLESOOTING CHART.jpg


ASSEMBLY CLEARANCE.jpg


BRAKE BOOSTER ASSMBLY.jpg
 
Well, my pump just went out on my '99 with 166k miles-- ABS and brake dash light and alarm. Mechanic verified it is the pump and possibly the ABS actuator. I'm replacing the pump and accumulator first. Found a good deal through ebay, seller yam6 out of UK: $870, new OEM, free shipping. I'll update when it arrives. Link below for reference.
NEW GENUINE TOYOTA BRAKE BOOSTER PUMP W/ACCUMULATOR LAND CRUISER OEM 47070-60010
 
Well, my pump just went out on my '99 with 166k miles-- ABS and brake dash light and alarm. Mechanic verified it is the pump and possibly the ABS actuator. I'm replacing the pump and accumulator first. Found a good deal through ebay, seller yam6 out of UK: $870, new OEM, free shipping. I'll update when it arrives. Link below for reference.
NEW GENUINE TOYOTA BRAKE BOOSTER PUMP W/ACCUMULATOR LAND CRUISER OEM 47070-60010
Update: this appears to have fixed the problem.
It's worked fine for two days, but there was a brief period at idle where the pump made a notable popping noise. This lasted for about 5-10 seconds and it hasn't done it since. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this? Also, when the pump turns on, it makes a buzzing noise, nothing major, but the original didn't do this.

Lastly, I am wondering if this is OEM. I'll post a pic, but there are no Toyota markings on the accumulator or the pump-- no decals, only what appears to be a serial number stamped onto the top of the accumulator. Does anyone have experience determining authenticity of parts?
 
Update: this appears to have fixed the problem.
It's worked fine for two days, but there was a brief period at idle where the pump made a notable popping noise. This lasted for about 5-10 seconds and it hasn't done it since. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this? Also, when the pump turns on, it makes a buzzing noise, nothing major, but the original didn't do this.

Lastly, I am wondering if this is OEM. I'll post a pic, but there are no Toyota markings on the accumulator or the pump-- no decals, only what appears to be a serial number stamped onto the top of the accumulator. Does anyone have experience determining authenticity of parts?

Yes, sounds like what I have right now with my '02 LX. It is intermittent, about 25% of the time I start it up, my ABS, and VSC and buzzing alarm goes on 5 seconds after I start the car. There is then the faint mechanical buzz where the MC is. I'll drive for about 3-5 minutes and the errors and alarm goes off. Some of the times, I get a 2-3 second screeching noise too from the MC area.

I haven't done anything yet, but if it becomes 50% of the time, I'm going to rebuild the MC.
 
Yes, sounds like what I have right now with my '02 LX. It is intermittent, about 25% of the time I start it up, my ABS, and VSC and buzzing alarm goes on 5 seconds after I start the car. There is then the faint mechanical buzz where the MC is. I'll drive for about 3-5 minutes and the errors and alarm goes off. Some of the times, I get a 2-3 second screeching noise too from the MC area.

I haven't done anything yet, but if it becomes 50% of the time, I'm going to rebuild the MC.
Interesting, I'm getting the mechanical buzz with a brand new pump and accumulator...
 
I get no buzz, but 1/3 of the time brake pedal doesn't return fully, stays engaged. Once every couple days the abs light and vsc light come on for a minute or so. Local shop diagnosed as brake controller ecu. Sound right?
 
Interesting, I'm getting the mechanical buzz with a brand new pump and accumulator...

I get the mechanical buzz every time after I press the brake down once or twice, doesn't matter how much pressure I use. Can hear it even more after i'm at a stoplight.
 
I'd make sure no air in lines by re-flushing. I'd start and end job by driving on a dirt road and stomping on brake to activate ABS, three times minimum. Use at least 2 1/2 qts to flush through system. As always set level at max when done, by first evacuating booster (key off pump peddle 40 times).

If yo still get alarm it may not be safe to drive.
 
As another data point, I have a 2004 that is clean and rust free 130k miles. I started hearing a mechanical sound from the MC area more and more often (normally just after startup for a minute or so) this happened for about a year and then the dreaded ABS alarm started going off occasionally. I went through all the forum posts and google searches and finally arrived at the conclusion that it must be the ABS pump. I ordered one from ebay from "Yam6" as shown here. It cost me $869.99 shipped. I pulled the entire MC assembly and switched out the pump. The old pump electrical connections were hideous with corrosion and I ended up having to drill the old connections off (worse than the pics that 2001LC posted above). New pump installed, truck buttoned up, bled all lines and took it to the dealer to have the full system bleed conducted. Next day the ABS alarm went off again. I was dejected and thinking I had wasted a day and $869. The next day, no alarm. It's now been a month and I am ABS whirring noise and alarm free. I'm still wondering why I got the alarm again after the pump change out, but I'm cautiously optimistic that it was an errant air bubble in the system. I'll report back if I get the alarm again.
 
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As another data point, I have a 2004 that is clean and rust free 130k miles. I started hearing a mechanical sound from the MC area more and more often (normally just after startup for a minute or so) this happened for about a year and then the dreaded ABS alarm started going off occasionally. I went through all the forum posts and google searches and finally arrived at the conclusion that it must be the ABS pump. I ordered one from ebay from "Yam6" as shown here. It cost me $869.99 shipped. I pulled the entire MC assembly and switched out the pump. The old pump electrical connections were hideous with corrosion and I ended up having to drill the old connections off (worse than the pics that 2001LC posted above). New pump installed, truck buttoned up, bled all lines and took it to the dealer to have the full system bleed conducted. Next day the ABS alarm went off again. I was dejected and thinking I had wasted a day and $869. The next day, no alarm. It's now been a month and I am ABS whirring noise and alarm free. I'm still wondering why I got the alarm again after the pump change out, but I'm cautiously optimistic that it was an errant air bubble in the system. I'll report back if I get the alarm again.
Hey SoylentGreen-- I also purchased the pump and accumulator from yam6. This is the pump that's making the mechanical buzz, new. My old one never made a noise until it failed completely. Is yours quiet? This buzz can be heard in the cabin. It may be nothing, but annoying.
 
@Dallas99, my new pump from Yam6 is working great. Very quiet with no mechanical noise whatsoever. The only hiccup was the ABS alarm the day after the dealership did the full system bleed. It happened once and hasn't returned since. I'm still terrified it'll come back, but it's been a month and all is well. I should learn to quit worrying. I still haven't heard any buzzing like the old pump while it was failing (it almost sounded like an air "puffing" noise). I'm happy with the Yam6 purchase and would do it again (because I think it saved me about $2300, but if yours is not working out, that's no bueno and hopefully he'll make it right.
 
@Dallas99, my new pump from Yam6 is working great. Very quiet with no mechanical noise whatsoever. The only hiccup was the ABS alarm the day after the dealership did the full system bleed. It happened once and hasn't returned since. I'm still terrified it'll come back, but it's been a month and all is well. I should learn to quit worrying. I still haven't heard any buzzing like the old pump while it was failing (it almost sounded like an air "puffing" noise). I'm happy with the Yam6 purchase and would do it again (because I think it saved me about $2300, but if yours is not working out, that's no bueno and hopefully he'll make it right.
Thanks @SoylentGreen...I spoke to yam6 and they think it might be a fitment issue. In WickedPickle's post above, the FSM shows improper accumulator bracket clearance could be the cause. I'm checking this next and will update.
 
Question: So for the brake system, it is made of 3 parts right? 1- Master Cylinder 2- ABS 3- Accumulator

I've got all 3 showing codes on the TIS. Trying my best not to spend $2500 for the whole unit. So its around $2500 for the whole unit, or $1k each piece if bought piece by piece?
 

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