ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX (1 Viewer)

[Dallas99]

Question: So for the brake system, it is made of 3 parts right? 1- Master Cylinder 2- ABS 3- Accumulator

I've got all 3 showing codes on the TIS. Trying my best not to spend $2500 for the whole unit. So its around $2500 for the whole unit, or $1k each piece if bought piece by piece?

It's difficult to decipher from the parts catalog so I spoke with a dealership, they stated for my '99 I could purchase -- the entire unit/master cylinder (all parts needed including ABS controller)($2096), or separately the booster pump motor (#7, $1069) and the accumulator (#6, $279), or the booster/accumulator as an assembly ($1200). Those prices are below list price, found on toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com. It seems for most cases the cause is the booster pump motor going out.

 

[Dallas99]

Master Cylinder

• Dallas99
• Nov 21, 2017

Actuator Assembly, Cylinder Assembly Brake Description:Land Cruiser. With stability ctrl. With...

Arrow shows ABS controller

 

[OverlandOutdoors]

Any ide

Sounds like the noise people report when the o ring/spring/silencer tube (situated between pump body and accumulator) is playing up.

Any idea on how to remove the accumulator? I have entire master cylinder unit out of the truck and can't figure out how to remove the accumulator to replace o-ring, spring and silencer tube

 

[Drogon]

Interesting thread.
Hope you dont mind a question...
For the past three years i heard the booster pump running in the cab, after i first start the engine. I have also been hearing it while driving, and the break pedal firms up a bit after it stops.

I am having a local shop flush the break fluid tomorrow. I am hopping this will also help with the pedal feel, and firm it up a bit.

Based on the above mentioned booster pump activity, do i need to be concerned when flushing the system? I guess i am worried i might unintentionally cause harm to the system if it is possibly failing.

 

[LRIwater]

Any ide

Any idea on how to remove the accumulator? I have entire master cylinder unit out of the truck and can't figure out how to remove the accumulator to replace o-ring, spring and silencer tube

Any luck on this, Cop9980? Where did you source the o-ring, spring, and silencer tube? Thanks!

 

[OverlandOutdoors]

Any luck on this, Cop9980? Where did you source the o-ring, spring, and silencer tube? Thanks!

So I bought the O-ring,spring and Silencer tube at local Toyota dealership, very cheap.
I did however buy a rebuilt accumulator on eBay so I just swapped it out as well as rebuilt the master cylinder. After bleeding the brakes and adding new brake fluid, the noise is now quieter but unfortunately still there!!! I'm lost to what else to do other then spend lots of money replacing the entire unit?

 

[Skykomish]

I have a 2006 LX 470 with only 62k miles and it seems like the brake booster is bad. It sounds like all the other descriptions I read on this thread. Is it possible that the booster would fail with such low mileage?

 

[DirtDawg]

I have a 2006 LX 470 with only 62k miles and it seems like the brake booster is bad. It sounds like all the other descriptions I read on this thread. Is it possible that the booster would fail with such low mileage?

Yes, mileage is not a factor in this case. Bad Brake fluid quality is detrimental to these systems, meaning I think fluid quality is more of a factor than mileage. I’m sure atmosphere conditions, temp, etc all play a role. Also someone who sits in stop and go traffic is more likely to wear out a pump more than someone who just drives highway.

 

[LRIwater]

This is the sound I am getting.

https://youtu.be/S2EyQMtwGuk

I bought a rebuilt pump motor, installed a low mileage pump and accumulator, rebuilt the master cylinder while I was there, and bled the brakes. Still have pretty much the same sound although now it's less random and more of an on / off on a tempo and only for about 1-2 minutes when it's "cold". For San Diego / Phoenix, that is like upper 50's. In the video you can see the movement of the fluid in the center baffle when the noise occurs.

The only thing that I haven't done is pay the $145 to have the dealer flush and bleed the brakes, although I put over two quarts to fill and bleed the system during the bleeding process. Ay caramba...

 

[2001LC]

If lucky it's just and adjustment.

Some others' sounds, last one sound like out of adjustment to me.
Screeching from brake Master Cylinder assembly
ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX

Looking down on accumulator

 

[jerryb]

in this picture, I see the sccumulator, the MC, the reservoir, and I guess the pump is under there also.
is this the whole complete unit? I'd like someone else to verify.

 

[2001LC]

It's complet.

 

[Ole Colony]

Last week I changed out my rear control arms and the passenger side brake wire was a light tight. Two days later abs and brake light as well as the buzzer came on. Is it possible that the brake wire shorted out the relays causing the booster to not work. I am hoping they are related but my mechanic thinks it is not and is checking it out today.

 

[2001LC]

This is the sound I am getting.

https://youtu.be/S2EyQMtwGuk

I bought a rebuilt pump motor, installed a low mileage pump and accumulator, rebuilt the master cylinder while I was there, and bled the brakes. Still have pretty much the same sound although now it's less random and more of an on / off on a tempo and only for about 1-2 minutes when it's "cold". For San Diego / Phoenix, that is like upper 50's. In the video you can see the movement of the fluid in the center baffle when the noise occurs.

The only thing that I haven't done is pay the $145 to have the dealer flush and bleed the brakes, although I put over two quarts to fill and bleed the system during the bleeding process. Ay caramba...

From a PM I felt better to post here. So others can contribute, benefit or beat me up on!

"Hi,
Thanks for your post regarding the accumulator bracket adjustment.
ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX

Do you know if it's just a an alignment of the bracket, or am I adjusting the actual accumulator? If the latter, do you know how to adjust that?

Many thanks!!
Chuck"

It is just adjusting the bracket as seen in above FSM page BR-57. The screws are on No 1 pump bracket.
From 2001 LC FSM page BR-59

Also note the No 2 Pump bracket and cushion (no identifying label) between it and Booster Pump motor. Additional as you look over the above diagram you'll see cushions, sleeve, collars and bolt. These must be in serviceable condition. The FSM doesn't mention these with abnormal sound, but can affect alignment.

If system has been properly assembled, those adjustment are correct, properly bleed and level is properly set. Then it is very like the pump motor is giving an early warning. Put your hand or a stethoscope on pump then on accumulate while sound happening, may help you isolate.

 

[LRIwater]

Thanks, the most vibration seems to be coming from the red Actuator No. 1 Tube, but that is probably just the speaker for whatever is causing the noise. I can move the actuator around by hand with no change in noise. The weird part to me is that the noise stops after a few minutes. Like something is warming up and then causing it to stop hitting a resonant frequency? The rebuilt motor seems to be running smoothly as it should, but the noise is intermittent.

 

[2001LC]

By moving actuator tube around, I assume you mean accumulator moves around as you move/flex the actuator No 1 tube.

Feeling more vib on tube than on accumulator may point to motor, but could also be air.

Next step:
Have you evacuated booster accumulator to set fluid level. The direction for proper procedure are on top of reservoir. Then time how long it takes to fill booster, 30 to 40 seconds is what you must get. Try timing three times, should be near the same each time (-+ 2 sec), from those I've seen. If either not to spec, bleed system again.

I really hope you get lucky with adjusting, fluid level and bleeding after all the work you've done.

 

[SoCal_80]

I just had to replace mine...I have the old one (from an 2006) if anyone is interested in having it rebuilt.

 

[LRIwater]

By moving actuator tube around, I assume you mean accumulator moves around as you move/flex the actuator No 1 tube.

Feeling more vib on tube than on accumulator may point to motor, but could also be air.

Next step:
Have you evacuated booster accumulator to set fluid level. The direction for proper procedure are on top of reservoir. Then time how long it takes to fill booster, 30 to 40 seconds is what you must get. Try timing three times, should be near the same each time (-+ 2 sec), from those I've seen. If either not to spec, bleed system again.

I really hope you get lucky with adjusting, fluid level and bleeding after all the work you've done.

Yes, sorry, I meant move the accumulator around. I'll give it another go this weekend. Thanks for your help!

 

[2001LC]

I just had to replace mine...I have the old one (from an 2006) if anyone is interested in having it rebuilt.

You have the motor or complete assembly?

 

[SoCal_80]

You have the motor or complete assembly?

Should be the complete assembly. I actually haven’t opened The box since the dealer replaced it last week.