Builds A Troopy Finds Its Owner

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I didn't know about one thing, and that is that the dashboard's high beam indicator light no longer comes on as it should when the high beams are on.
 
I removed the overhead console as i am replacing the stereo, and adding two LED lights, also from Odd Iron (some might consider his LEDs expensive, and yes one can get any number of LEDs from China online for didley squat, but i 'm glad to pay for someone to dig through all the crap to find the good ones). Here's a picture of what was done to the antenna cable, the red wire was bonded to ground under a bolt in the engine bay. I do not know about radio antennae, but this sure doesn't look kosher to me. I think i can guess at who would do such a thing.
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@61Mk+ ...... "from Odd Iron (some might consider his LEDs expensive, and yes one can get any number of LEDs from China online for didley squat, but i 'm glad to pay for someone to dig through all the crap to find the good ones."
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Perhaps Rob should put "digging through all of the crap to find the good ones" on his business cards. :lol:

P.M. Sent ......
 
@61Mk+ ...... "from Odd Iron (some might consider his LEDs expensive, and yes one can get any number of LEDs from China online for didley squat, but i 'm glad to pay for someone to dig through all the crap to find the good ones."
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Perhaps Rob should put "digging through all of the crap to find the good ones" on his business cards. :lol:

P.M. Sent ......
A friend (with a 2010 Tundra) has purchased online (Amazon) 150-200 bulbs for that pick-up. When you pay betwwen 1 and 2 bucks for each one of those, okay fine, but i've little attraction to ordering and changing them out dozens of times until you find what's worthwhile.
I'm very happy with the results i got.
 
For curiosity's sake, i cut open that soldered antenna end, and the soldering of the red wire was to the centre copper conductor; that's the one that provides the radio signal. Who in hell knows what drove someone to do something like that; ignorance is the fairest thing i can think of.
Once i found out how crushers' talents were like nearly four years ago, i figured that pretty well every single time i was going to look at things in my car, i'd find issues and any variety of silliness. The antenna lead was one, and the rear lights (the ones installed in the bumper) are another: it was the first time i removed them, to put in the LED bulbs, and as usual the lenses fit into a groove in the housing (those lights are, by the way, the same ones as you'd find on 70 Series pick-ups). In that groove one expects to find a gasket to keep moisture and crud out. Mine didn't have gaskets. Stupid, stupid, stupid!! It is an old issue, but by christ i can't help but be, yet again, disappointed by the dipstick that is crushers; it's uncanny how he did some things beautifully, and failed miserably in so many others. From what i hear and read, he should have no issues getting a job with Profitt's.
Sorry to rant, Mudders, but crushers fundamentally built a new car from scratch, and had every opportunity to make it perfect, then tossed a huge number of those opportunities away. Alright, enough of the frustration now.
 
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Interior lights, first pic is the existing dome light, with a new incandescent bulb.
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How it looks with Odd Iron's LED replacement in the factory dome light fixture.
Second pic: there is a foam-backed vinyl on my overhead console, thought i'd show the result of incandescent heat.
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I quite like Odd Iron's interior LED lights: compact, tidy, thoughtfully designed, and impressive quality. Just one example of the quality is the cable it comes with: it is the same type as the heavy black rubber extension cords, and how it goes into the little fixture looks to me like it'll never work itself loose.
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The interior with all three lights on. Yeah, it could be a bit much...
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@61Mk+ ........ "Yeah, it could be a bit much..."
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Until you drop something important, like your keys, between the seats, then the amount of light is "just right". :)
 
Possibly a silly question, have a laugh if so: my rear lights are the type found on LandCruiser pick-ups. I noticed that the lenses each have a capital L moulded in, see picture (L can be seen next to the tip of the screwdriver, both lenses have it). I'm wondering if these lenses are side-specific; anyone know please?
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one long edge should have drain notches. Is it the same edge on both lenses?
 
Hello,

From my experience, OEM lenses have L and R (for left and right) marked on them. Aftermarket ones do not.

It is possible that you have an OEM left lens and and aftermarket lens without markings.





Juan
 
Hello CruiserDan and JuanJ,

Thank you for your answers.
Cruiserdan, indeed one long edge does have drain notches; and both lenses are exactly the same, in that one is not a mirror reflection of the other.
JuanJ, both lenses have 'Toyota' and 'Koito' moulded into the lens plastic, so neither are aftermarket. From both your replies, someone wasn't paying attention during initial installation, and it looks like i'll be looking for a right-side lens soon.
Cheers!
 
Don’t two lefts make a right? Or was that three... :)
 
Hello CruiserDan and JuanJ,

Thank you for your answers.
Cruiserdan, indeed one long edge does have drain notches; and both lenses are exactly the same, in that one is not a mirror reflection of the other.
JuanJ, both lenses have 'Toyota' and 'Koito' moulded into the lens plastic, so neither are aftermarket. From both your replies, someone wasn't paying attention during initial installation, and it looks like i'll be looking for a right-side lens soon.
Cheers!

Hello,

I guess this piles up on the many details omitted during the initial build of your Troopie.

Thankfully, you are succeeding in correcting all these issues. That is what matters.






Juan
 
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Hello,

I guess this piles up on the many details omitted during the initial build of your Troopie.

Thankfully, you are succeeding in correcting all these issues. That is what matters.

Hello JuanJ,

I very much appreciate your mentioning the correct perspective, and thank you. What i really want to do is rent a large space to entirely dismantle the car myself (i may have mentioned this before), down to the last nut and bolt, and then put it back together, de-crusherizing it in the process. The problem is i cannot afford to rent such a space, especially as i have no desire to hurry and have never done such a thing. The ambition just won't quit, though.

On another matter, it took me this long to reply as it looks like Mud has changed the sign-in and security protocols, such that i cannot sign-in with a tablet, but no issues at all with a laptop, as there are no changes to signing in with those (so what the hell?). With a tablet, one has to provide the usual e-mail address, password, then you're told that you have to accept the cookies, and have to go through the reCaptcha silliness. It's not as nice as that, however: i tried perhaps 30 times, on two or three different occasions, and even as i had accepted the cookies (as if one has a choice), i consistently got sent to the re-sign-in page to re-type my password in again, and go through reCaptcha again, and again, and so on. And the only red-highlighted message to inform you of what was needed said the same crud about my having to accept cookies, which i had done repeatedly.
None of this happens with a laptop. Another silly thing with tablets, in this case, is that the cookies message at the bottom of the screen is very often covered by an advertisement (so one cannot click on 'ACCEPT'); as well, i cannot for the life of me find a reason why such security measures are deemed necessary (anyone ever put their credit card number into Mud?) for a site such as this.
Anyone else have similar issues?





Juan
 
I didn't know about one thing, and that is that the dashboard's high beam indicator light no longer comes on as it should when the high beams are on.
Missed this, yes you will need a resistor inline to generate the required resistance so the indicator knows when to come on. I have a model that has worked well, ill send it as soon as i get home to take a pic or three
 
Missed this, yes you will need a resistor inline to generate the required resistance so the indicator knows when to come on. I have a model that has worked well, ill send it as soon as i get home to take a pic or three
Glad you found a reliable one. Several of the ones we tried had a very short life expectancy.
 
Missed this, yes you will need a resistor inline to generate the required resistance so the indicator knows when to come on. I have a model that has worked well, ill send it as soon as i get home to take a pic or three
Glad you found a reliable one. Several of the ones we tried had a very short life expectancy.


Hello AndrewHadj and Gunrun5,

Sounds good, thank you. I did have a bit of a yap with Odd Iron Rob, confirming exactly what you say, GunRun. Andrew, i look forward to your info. I admit it doesn't seriously bother me to not have the dashboard indicator come on, i just have to remember to pay attention to what i'm doing.
Thanks ya'll!
 
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