a-trac 101

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Yup. That was me. Never got that situation working. Chalked it up to the system having reached its limits. My theory remains that with better brakes the system would have more capability.

I fixed this by installing lockers and haven't worried about it since.

^^^^Best fix for 100 series Atrac^^^^
 
ATRAC is not a Cure-All in all situations. It blows away lockers in some places and visa-versa. And I've never been inpressed with FJC's on the hard trails...ATRAC or not.
 
Interesting. I've tried locked and unlocked (ATRAC equipped) rigs in the snow (I don't mean road driving, I mean plowing through 20" of fresh snow up hills etc) and I've found ATRAC to be FAR superior to lockers (at least rear - I'd love to try this with 4 wheel lockers). I found with the rear locked rigs, the vehicle would often slide from side to side trying to gain traction (this really depends on the current scenario) however with ATRAC I found the system just digs in and does a wonderful job with it. Vehicles tested were a 2007 (new) FJ Cruiser W/O Atrac (base) with rear locker and 2007 (new) 4Runner V6 brand new off the showroom floor (ATRAC) while I was selling cars during a massive snowstorm we had. I can't remember, but I think the tires were even the same - although I cannot confirm this, perhaps they were slightly different. In both vehicles though, the tires generally sucked from the factory, and would have been better off replaced.

Also on the same day, I tested a 2003 4Runner V8 (which I sold that morning) and it too handled similarly to the new one. Also (same day same condition) I tested a 1997 4runner that was lifted with BFG's and a rear locker. It too did what the FJCruiser did.

Offroad, I'm sure the 97 runner and FJ would have perhaps even done better; however in this application of deep snow, at least in my experience; there was no comparison.

:beer:
 
This is an absolutely awesome write up for a newbie tot he LC world. I will likely re read this multiple times to fully take it all in. I had a 2012 FJ and I can't tell you enough how much this thread has helps me understand the limits of the first generation A TRAC as I am planning my first overloading trip
 
Great write up and a good baseline to understand your rig. Nothing compares to a bit of experience and doing the wrong thing enough times to learn what the 100 can do right.

I rarely lock my center diff, call me crazy, and my rig has pulled me up and over some harsh terrain.

Sometimes when snow wheeling, I like to have the added protection of the VSC when I am slipping off the road in the super icy Montana forest roads, it has helped me out a few times if you know how it will engage. Other times it's super deep and the center diff lock has helped.

As with most every conversation, it always will depend on your situation as to what the best gear, range, and approach should be. Slow and steady usually gets me through everything, but sometimes you need to open her up and let it rip.
 
So what years do the lx470 have the atrac? I have a 1999 but its only got a a CDL and H-N-L aside from the main PRNDL, I know I could probably just look this up but I guess I like hearing it from you guys. If I dont have that system does anyone know if my model can tackle that sort of terrain
 
So what years do the lx470 have the atrac? I have a 1999 but its only got a a CDL and H-N-L aside from the main PRNDL, I know I could probably just look this up but I guess I like hearing it from you guys. If I dont have that system does anyone know if my model can tackle that sort of terrain
2000 up
 
Solid write up. Never had a 4x4 with traction control or a center locker so I’m definitely soaking in all the info I can.
 
All 100 series (according to 98 LX & LC OM) have a CDL, in the North America models. In the 2000 model, some do not have ATRAC some do, according to PQ parts diagrams.

Rear locker was replaced by ATRAC. To this end, the rear brake when from one high pressure line serving both rear brake calipers, to two separate lines. Also in 2000 they used two different high pressure switches in the master. This first was replaced with the one used through 2007. These switch are not interchangeable.
 
Great thread!! Thank you everybody for posting great information here. I just recently took my LX470 off road and drove over Mosquito Pass in Colorado. I got to the top and turned the truck off only to try to restart it a few minutes later to reposition for a picture. But when I tried to restart it did not turn back on. Instead the A/T FLUID OVERHEAT came on and stayed on. Well, that was a little bit of a shocker at 13.000+ft but after some cooling time the truck started normally and everything stayed normal after that.

My questions are:
1. Why did the light come on, i.e. why did the transmission fluid overheat?
2. I drove up the mountain in LOW GEAR "D" (CDL in normal). There were some rocks I had to climb over (very exciting for a beginner like me) and A-TRAC engaged a couple times (worked perfect with what I learned from this thread). My question is, do I need to drive in LOW GEAR? Should I drive in LOW GEAR or only engage LOW when I want to clear a serious obstacle? When do I need LOW?

My thoughts are (A) next time I will try HIGH GEAR as much as I can to see how the truck handles it (will that help the transmission fluid to stay cooler?), and (B) I will top off the transmission fluid (I am learning about all that in the transmission fluid thread) and potentially drain & fill the transmission fluid. I have no service records when it was done last and the truck has about 190.000miles on it (I bought it with 166.000).

Any thoughts or inputs are highly appreciated.
Thank you!
 
Great thread!! Thank you everybody for posting great information here. I just recently took my LX470 off road and drove over Mosquito Pass in Colorado. I got to the top and turned the truck off only to try to restart it a few minutes later to reposition for a picture. But when I tried to restart it did not turn back on. Instead the A/T FLUID OVERHEAT came on and stayed on. Well, that was a little bit of a shocker at 13.000+ft but after some cooling time the truck started normally and everything stayed normal after that.

My questions are:
1. Why did the light come on, i.e. why did the transmission fluid overheat?
2. I drove up the mountain in LOW GEAR "D" (CDL in normal). There were some rocks I had to climb over (very exciting for a beginner like me) and A-TRAC engaged a couple times (worked perfect with what I learned from this thread). My question is, do I need to drive in LOW GEAR? Should I drive in LOW GEAR or only engage LOW when I want to clear a serious obstacle? When do I need LOW?

My thoughts are (A) next time I will try HIGH GEAR as much as I can to see how the truck handles it (will that help the transmission fluid to stay cooler?), and (B) I will top off the transmission fluid (I am learning about all that in the transmission fluid thread) and potentially drain & fill the transmission fluid. I have no service records when it was done last and the truck has about 190.000miles on it (I bought it with 166.000).

Any thoughts or inputs are highly appreciated.
Thank you!
Better ask this ? in other threads, dealing with ECT (engine coolant temp) and transmissions temps.


That said:
I'd say it all depends on angle of ascent/descent and load (weight) you carry. If by LOW you're referring to the "H" n "L" of transfer case (short shifter on passenger side). I'd use low for up and down off road passes in CO, in most cases. Work the transmission in lower gears also. "D" when push to left, takes out of overdrive (putting in a lower gearing electrically). Work transmission in 1, 2, 3 etc.. in most cases, RPM and terrain are consideration.

Also there is a TBS on the 5 speed transmission. They need more fluid than came from factory. We now use a different (LOWER) ATF temp to set level.

Note:
If your from CO you know, but if a flatlander: Don't use brakes to control downhill speed, use the transmission.
 
Great thread!! Thank you everybody for posting great information here. I just recently took my LX470 off road and drove over Mosquito Pass in Colorado. I got to the top and turned the truck off only to try to restart it a few minutes later to reposition for a picture. But when I tried to restart it did not turn back on. Instead the A/T FLUID OVERHEAT came on and stayed on. Well, that was a little bit of a shocker at 13.000+ft but after some cooling time the truck started normally and everything stayed normal after that.

My questions are:
1. Why did the light come on, i.e. why did the transmission fluid overheat?
2. I drove up the mountain in LOW GEAR "D" (CDL in normal). There were some rocks I had to climb over (very exciting for a beginner like me) and A-TRAC engaged a couple times (worked perfect with what I learned from this thread). My question is, do I need to drive in LOW GEAR? Should I drive in LOW GEAR or only engage LOW when I want to clear a serious obstacle? When do I need LOW?

My thoughts are (A) next time I will try HIGH GEAR as much as I can to see how the truck handles it (will that help the transmission fluid to stay cooler?), and (B) I will top off the transmission fluid (I am learning about all that in the transmission fluid thread) and potentially drain & fill the transmission fluid. I have no service records when it was done last and the truck has about 190.000miles on it (I bought it with 166.000).

Any thoughts or inputs are highly appreciated.
Thank you!
1. The AT Temp light simply came on because you attempted to start the engine and it didn't start. The AT Temp light will go off once the vehicle is running. You can test this by just turning the key to on and the AT Temp light will come on and stay on along with the battery light and CEL. I would be pretty comfortable saying your trans is fine.

2. Low range D is fine. For more control you can select 1 or 2 and 2nd start. I like to do that on uphills to keep it in 2nd so it doesn't shift up and down and just stays steady.

Likely you just have hot fuel, very common on these trucks, which cause vapor lock. You can just turn the key and let it sit in ON for 5 seconds, turn to OFF, and then back to ON for another 5 seconds and repeat to turn on the fuel pump a few times and pump fresh fuel into the rail to replace the vapors and it will start up next time.
 
I’ve read this, and many other threads in ATRAC. It seems like it gets some info from the engine, and will cut it back at times. But I’m not 100% sure on this one...

If it has zero feedback from the engine, say a mechanical diesel, or a drive by wire LS swap that doesn’t communicate with the tranny or rest of the systems at all; will it still work or no?
 
Great thread!! Thank you everybody for posting great information here. I just recently took my LX470 off road and drove over Mosquito Pass in Colorado. I got to the top and turned the truck off only to try to restart it a few minutes later to reposition for a picture. But when I tried to restart it did not turn back on. Instead the A/T FLUID OVERHEAT came on and stayed on. Well, that was a little bit of a shocker at 13.000+ft but after some cooling time the truck started normally and everything stayed normal after that.

My questions are:
1. Why did the light come on, i.e. why did the transmission fluid overheat?
2. I drove up the mountain in LOW GEAR "D" (CDL in normal). There were some rocks I had to climb over (very exciting for a beginner like me) and A-TRAC engaged a couple times (worked perfect with what I learned from this thread). My question is, do I need to drive in LOW GEAR? Should I drive in LOW GEAR or only engage LOW when I want to clear a serious obstacle? When do I need LOW?

My thoughts are (A) next time I will try HIGH GEAR as much as I can to see how the truck handles it (will that help the transmission fluid to stay cooler?), and (B) I will top off the transmission fluid (I am learning about all that in the transmission fluid thread) and potentially drain & fill the transmission fluid. I have no service records when it was done last and the truck has about 190.000miles on it (I bought it with 166.000).

Any thoughts or inputs are highly appreciated.
Thank you!
High gear gets you into trouble. Low gear gets you out of trouble. Don't use low just driving around when offroading.
 
@2001LC @J1000 @gatormark91
Thank you very much for the inputs and tips!

@2001LC
Yea, I learned fairly quickly to use the lower gears when coming down the mountain, especially when we are fully loaded with camping gear.

@J1000
Thanks for clarifying the A/T TEMP light. That makes total sense but since it was the only light that came on I bit of on that. It makes me feel better about my transmission fluid. I already ordered 6qts. I guess I'll use them at some time.
Interesting point about the hot fuel. I thought with injection, vapor lock would not be a problem. Maybe the fuel filter is clogged and doesn't provide enough throughput?

@gatormark91
I will experiment with HIGH and LOW to find out when I need LOW to get out of trouble.
 
You can just turn the key and let it sit in ON for 5 seconds, turn to OFF, and then back to ON for another 5 seconds and repeat to turn on the fuel pump a few times and pump fresh fuel into the rail to replace the vapors and it will start up next time.

don't start that rumor.
 

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