a-trac 101 (1 Viewer)

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@J1000
I know you do
that's why you should know.
It's also why I'd even bother pointing it out. Misinformation being rampant and all.
Feel free to show me the wiring diagram, and explain how the ECU puts a signal out on the E9 connector position number 8,
explain what happens first before the efi relay>COPN>Fpump
I figured someone setting up an ecu3 would know.

I'll wait.
 
@J1000
I know you do
that's why you should know.
It's also why I'd even bother pointing it out. Misinformation being rampant and all.
Feel free to show me the wiring diagram, and explain how the ECU puts a signal out on the E9 connector position number 8,
explain what happens first before the efi relay>COPN>Fpump
I figured someone setting up an ecu3 would know.

I'll wait.
I know you are waiting so I didn't want to make you wait long so I just made a quick video turning my key on and off up near the fuel pump so you can hear the fuel pump turn on and off without the engine running. Every car I've owned that was made in the last 30 years primes with the key in On for 3-5 seconds. I don't know what planet people are living on. Not only to be wrong, but to be aggressively wrong and a jerk about it to boot. I mean, you could have done this yourself. I cannot believe in all your years of 100 series ownership you didn't notice the fuel pump turns on before the engine starts.

And yes I installed a MAP ECU3 and an E85 Flex Fuel kit and I needed to know quickly which fuel line was return and which was pressure so I could install the E85 sensor and I used this method to confirm I had them correct. I also used this method to drain my fuel tank of as much E85 as possible so I could dyno test for our 12-hole fuel injector testing on pump 91 octane fuel. Suffice to say I know what I am talking about and if you want to disagree YOU better start posting some evidence.

I'll wait.

Turn up your volume, wouldn't want you to miss it:

 
Fuel pump does not turn on in the 100 series, when key just turned to on form off or ACC. The engine must be cranking-over. Either as when starting (cranking) or when engine running.

The motor that comes on/heard (most often thought to be fuel pump) when key just turned to on, is brake booster motor.

If in doubt, disconnect fuel line, downstream of fuel filter easiest point. Turn the key to on. ;) Make sure to relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel line. The system does stay pressurized unless leak, like leak-down of weak fuel injectors.
 
If in doubt, disconnect fuel line, downstream of fuel filter easiest point. Turn the key to on. ;) Make sure to relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel line. The system does stay pressurized unless leak, like leak-down of weak fuel injectors.
That's what I've done a couple times.
 
here you go.

Wow way to get the camera close enough to the pump to actually hear it like I did. Nice test, not. I've tested the fuel rails when my truck was stock also. None of the wiring I've done has affected the fuel pump circuit or relays. Why dont you disconnect one of your fuel lines under the hood and try it and make a video? It only takes a pair of plairs. I would but I'm doing a MPG trial because of the other thread where people told me I was wrong but I turned out to be right.
 
you've been wrong before. Should have kept you ignored. I know it's correct and everyone else does. Believe what you like.

and what are you saying, I wouldn't see pressure on the sender with the key on, but if I moved the camera to the fuel pump I would hear, it? are you kidding me? lol There is a zero on that display.
 
Fuel pump does not turn on in the 100 series, when key just turned to on form off or ACC. The engine must be cranking-over. Either as when starting (cranking) or when engine running.

The motor that comes on/heard (most often thought to be fuel pump) when key just turned to on, is brake booster motor.

If in doubt, disconnect fuel line, downstream of fuel filter easiest point. Turn the key to on. ;) Make sure to relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel line. The system does stay pressurized unless leak, like leak-down of weak fuel injectors.

^^^^^

Correct.

80 series either, but don't waste your time trying to convince those who already (know it all) and seem a little sensitive to being corrected.
 
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you've been wrong before. Should have kept you ignored. I know it's correct and everyone else does. Believe what you like.

and what are you saying, I wouldn't see pressure on the sender with the key on, but if I moved the camera to the fuel pump I would hear, it? are you kidding me? lol There is a zero on that display.
I didn't realize you had a fuel pressure gauge in the video at first. What happens when you turn the key to on for a few seconds then off then on again? Also is this the '06 in your signature?
 
That's what I've done a couple times.
You've disconnected the fuel line. Than pump fuel out fuel line, using fuel pump, by only turning the key to on (not cranking engine). A couple of times.

Is that what you are saying?
 
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Ok I read everything on this thread but I have a couple of questions.


When do you need to lock the cdl?

And can attach turn on when the cdl is not active?


And when do you really need 4l?



Thanks in advance
 
Ok I read everything on this thread but I have a couple of questions.


When do you need to lock the cdl?

And can attach turn on when the cdl is not active?


And when do you really need 4l?



Thanks in advance

The answers to those simple questions can be somewhat complex. But in general:

1. Engage CDL when you leave the hard top and get on to a low traction surface. I typically turn my CDL on when I hit dirt.

2. ATRAC is an electronic traction control system that works independent of CDL, 4hi or 4 low. So yes, it works all the time.

3. Engage 4low when you're in a situation when you need more low speed control and torque over obstacles, steep climbs or steep descents.

I suggest you check out YouTube and watch some videos from the likes of Ronny Dahl and 4xOverland to just name a few. It's really more complicated of a subject than it initially seems.
 
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I'm new to UZJ100 ownership. I've been a multiple Surf owner and forum lurker for years though.

I just want to say thanks again to OP for an awesome write up on the system, answering all my Qs, as the JDM manual is pretty hard to read.
 
back to the Atrac discussion here.....

I have a 2002 JDM VX LC100. Went out in some snow today, and deep drifts. have the center diff lock engaged, but never had any spinning wheel intervention, never felt / heard any abs engagement, no lights on dash other than the CDL icon.

Does every LC have atrac?

Is there a fuse?

Is there a diagnosis procedure?

I had both left wheels freely spinning, and spinning, and spinning.....was embarrassing to get pulled out by a jeep, twice
 
back to the Atrac discussion here.....

I have a 2002 JDM VX LC100. Went out in some snow today, and deep drifts. have the center diff lock engaged, but never had any spinning wheel intervention, never felt / heard any abs engagement, no lights on dash other than the CDL icon.

Does every LC have atrac?

Is there a fuse?

Is there a diagnosis procedure?

I had both left wheels freely spinning, and spinning, and spinning.....was embarrassing to get pulled out by a jeep, twice
Take a look at your brake booster? Is there 4 lines coming out? Or 3?

If you have 4, you have traction control which means you have atrac. I'd be pissed if I bought a 100 series that was 2000 and newer, and it didn't have atrac or traction control.
 
Lack of use the CDL systems gets buggy. By repeated using over time, they'll often free-up and work properly again.
 

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