Hi tlc_4play,
What brand of leaf springs did you use, they look fairly light for a FJ?
What brand of leaf springs did you use, they look fairly light for a FJ?
A South African BJ40 rebuild into a FJ40
- Thread starter tlc_4play
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- Thread starter
- #42
Watrob
They are the Hestee Parabolics with 4" lift, with a rated constant load above standard of 200kg
This is to cater for the winch, bullbar, Long range tank, water tank, fridge, solar panel, and all the other extra overlanding equipment that will be fitted.
They are the Hestee Parabolics with 4" lift, with a rated constant load above standard of 200kg
This is to cater for the winch, bullbar, Long range tank, water tank, fridge, solar panel, and all the other extra overlanding equipment that will be fitted.
I noticed that there is only 2 leaves in the spring set, is that how they came?, and are the back set the same?
- Thread starter
- #44
Watrob
yes that is how they are supplied by Heystees - The advertising hype claims "coil spring like comfort and articulation - from leaf springs"
two leafs per pack on front springs and two leafs per pack on rear springs
yes that is how they are supplied by Heystees - The advertising hype claims "coil spring like comfort and articulation - from leaf springs"
two leafs per pack on front springs and two leafs per pack on rear springs
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Here's their website: HST Parabolic Suspension Systems
Keith, I'm very keen to hear if the parabolics are really as good as they say.
Keith, I'm very keen to hear if the parabolics are really as good as they say.
Beautiful cruiser and awesome job. I love seeing a cruiser rebuilt from the ground up. Nothing beats bolting on clean good as new parts and not getting dirty. A rarity for me.
- Thread starter
- #47
Once I'm finished - I'll get some pics of it articulating and stretching for all to see, but just "bouncing" it around during the build, it definitely feels a lot more flexible than it did with the OME springs it had on before.
- Thread starter
- #48
UPDATE:-
Due to earlier problems with a leaking sump (holed inbetween the sump and its built in bash plate) and difficulties with getting the rear brakes bled properly, I was not able to get the truck to the bodyshop to have all its glass re-installed - damn
. So it'll have to wait.
Well other than the above frustrations I actually got some work done tonite.
1. I completed the modified bracketry and strengthening of the two battery boxes.
2. Primed and painted the two battery boxes
3. Installed the front mudguards (fenders)
4. Installed the front bib.
5. Installed the mudguard (fender) side panels
6. Installed the running boards
7. Mounted the two batteries.
8. Cut a chunk out of the right mudguard (fender) to clear the 60's power steering box. (this will now need to be touched up (painted)
I think I'm going to get rebuild withdrawal symptoms, because I'm off on a business trip to Europe for two and half weeks, so there will be a bit af a break before the next rebuild update.
Check it out. . . . . . . . .
Due to earlier problems with a leaking sump (holed inbetween the sump and its built in bash plate) and difficulties with getting the rear brakes bled properly, I was not able to get the truck to the bodyshop to have all its glass re-installed - damn
. So it'll have to wait. Well other than the above frustrations I actually got some work done tonite.
1. I completed the modified bracketry and strengthening of the two battery boxes.
2. Primed and painted the two battery boxes
3. Installed the front mudguards (fenders)
4. Installed the front bib.
5. Installed the mudguard (fender) side panels
6. Installed the running boards
7. Mounted the two batteries.
8. Cut a chunk out of the right mudguard (fender) to clear the 60's power steering box. (this will now need to be touched up (painted)
I think I'm going to get rebuild withdrawal symptoms, because I'm off on a business trip to Europe for two and half weeks, so there will be a bit af a break before the next rebuild update.
Check it out. . . . . . . . .
Keith "Kermit" the BFJ is looking great 
Superb! 
- Thread starter
- #52
Ive been in Germany for 5 days now, and - I really miss my 40 
I cant sleep at night cos I start planning all the additional mods I want to do.
I cant sleep at night cos I start planning all the additional mods I want to do.
Ive been in Germany for 5 days now, and - I really miss my 40
I cant sleep at night cos I start planning all the additional mods I want to do.
Keith,
I have experienced this same phenomenon. It's madness, I tell you!
- Thread starter
- #54
Dan
As the present project nears its end, I am already planning to import another one from Aussie, and the next one will be rebuilt as a soft top.
As the present project nears its end, I am already planning to import another one from Aussie, and the next one will be rebuilt as a soft top.
And here I am already thinking of buying a roadable FJ/BJ45 bakkie in SA to ship to the US for restoration.
My 
really wants a pick-up and she likes the 40 series. Wonder how hard it would be to convert from RHD to LHD?We need help!
- Thread starter
- #56
Kermit is finished
With the exception of a few fiddley things like fitting the roof, (if I fit the roof I wont be able to get it out of the garage) fitting the speedo and revvie (still waiting for it to arrive from Teebag in Cape Town after its rebuild)
And Im not happy with the route of the exhaust - done under their own "initiative" why I dont know
View of engine compartment, I mated the diesel airbox (on left) to the cut off top carb part from the 2F air box PITA job.
BTW method of restoring badly rust water stained radiator overflow bottle.
Mine was completely brown in color. I first tried filling it with coke and leaving it standing for a few days ~ nothing happened it was a bit cleaner but still rust brown in color
Then I filled it 50% with swimming pool acid and filled the remaining with water ( a 50/50 mix) Left it standing for 3 days emptied the pool acid out, rinsed thoroughly and bingo a clean restored overflow bottle
Pic of dual charging system and ceramic coated headers
I was loathe to cut huge holes in the dash ~ so I mounted the ARB pump and locker actuation switches on a remote plate mounted under the dash
Fitted new mats
The rear of the truck with standard bumperettes and step
From front showing ARB bar and Hella spotties
BTW there is a Warn M9000 mounted inside the bar - just waiting for the Dynamica rope
Now I've just gotta take it to a tyre (tire) shop to have the 33" x 12.5" x 15" Good Year MTR's fitted and balanced,
and the wheel allignment set
With the exception of a few fiddley things like fitting the roof, (if I fit the roof I wont be able to get it out of the garage) fitting the speedo and revvie (still waiting for it to arrive from Teebag in Cape Town after its rebuild)
And Im not happy with the route of the exhaust - done under their own "initiative" why I dont know
View of engine compartment, I mated the diesel airbox (on left) to the cut off top carb part from the 2F air box PITA job.
BTW method of restoring badly rust water stained radiator overflow bottle.
Mine was completely brown in color. I first tried filling it with coke and leaving it standing for a few days ~ nothing happened it was a bit cleaner but still rust brown in color
Then I filled it 50% with swimming pool acid and filled the remaining with water ( a 50/50 mix) Left it standing for 3 days emptied the pool acid out, rinsed thoroughly and bingo a clean restored overflow bottle
Pic of dual charging system and ceramic coated headers
I was loathe to cut huge holes in the dash ~ so I mounted the ARB pump and locker actuation switches on a remote plate mounted under the dash
Fitted new mats
The rear of the truck with standard bumperettes and step
From front showing ARB bar and Hella spotties
BTW there is a Warn M9000 mounted inside the bar - just waiting for the Dynamica rope
Now I've just gotta take it to a tyre (tire) shop to have the 33" x 12.5" x 15" Good Year MTR's fitted and balanced,
and the wheel allignment set
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Absolutely fantastic resto! 
I am in awe. Superb!!!
oom
I am in awe. Superb!!!
oom
- Thread starter
- #58
Kermit is Finished
I now have a major problem, what am going to do with all this time on my hands
I'll just have to buy another 40 and start all over again.
KERMIT is finished
I started the rebuild in mid February, and it was finished today (mid October)
So the complete rebuild has taken me exactly 8 months of blood, sweat and sleepless nights.
But its been worth it.
I fitted the roof in the driveway
But these 31" tires look really wimpish with a 4" lift.
See what I mean
So I went and fitted a set of 33 x 12.5 x 15 Good Year MTR Muddies.
Looks much better with 33" tires.
The 33's also sorted the gearing as it always felt like the gear ratios were too high and I was always hunting for a 5th gear,
But now it feels much more at ease.
A brief summary:~
I pulled out the B diesel donk and replaced it with a completely rebuilt and balanced 2F.
Axles were completely rebuilt with new diff and wheel bearings, seals and ARB air lockers front and rear
New disks and disk pads on front
New drums and shoes an rear
Gearbox and transfer case completely overhauled - new bearings, seals and synchro's
I grafted on a 60 series power steering pump, power steering box and intermediate shaft.
4" lift Heystee parabolic springs with 6" anti inversion shackles
Pro Comp Shocks
Long Ranger Long Range tank
ARB Bullbar
Warn M9000 winch
New bucket seats
New carpets
New headlights
New Indicators
New tail lights
Hella Spotties
Ceramic coated headers and new stainless steel exhaust system
Body taken down to bare metal all rust removed and completely rewsprayed "Rustic Green"
New interior door panels.
The only thing that annoys me is the fact that I didnt re do the roof liner - but I will do that very soon.
I now have a major problem, what am going to do with all this time on my hands
I'll just have to buy another 40 and start all over again.
KERMIT is finished
I started the rebuild in mid February, and it was finished today (mid October)
So the complete rebuild has taken me exactly 8 months of blood, sweat and sleepless nights.
But its been worth it.
I fitted the roof in the driveway
But these 31" tires look really wimpish with a 4" lift.
See what I mean
So I went and fitted a set of 33 x 12.5 x 15 Good Year MTR Muddies.
Looks much better with 33" tires.
The 33's also sorted the gearing as it always felt like the gear ratios were too high and I was always hunting for a 5th gear,
But now it feels much more at ease.
A brief summary:~
I pulled out the B diesel donk and replaced it with a completely rebuilt and balanced 2F.
Axles were completely rebuilt with new diff and wheel bearings, seals and ARB air lockers front and rear
New disks and disk pads on front
New drums and shoes an rear
Gearbox and transfer case completely overhauled - new bearings, seals and synchro's
I grafted on a 60 series power steering pump, power steering box and intermediate shaft.
4" lift Heystee parabolic springs with 6" anti inversion shackles
Pro Comp Shocks
Long Ranger Long Range tank
ARB Bullbar
Warn M9000 winch
New bucket seats
New carpets
New headlights
New Indicators
New tail lights
Hella Spotties
Ceramic coated headers and new stainless steel exhaust system
Body taken down to bare metal all rust removed and completely rewsprayed "Rustic Green"
New interior door panels.
The only thing that annoys me is the fact that I didnt re do the roof liner - but I will do that very soon.
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Keith,
Congratulations!!!
Excellent rebuild. Kermit should give you many, many years of stout service.
I know how you feel... what next? I can't start anything new with the transfer just 7 weeks away, but I'm already looking around for the next project truck. Guess the illness is incurable
Congratulations!!!
Excellent rebuild. Kermit should give you many, many years of stout service.
I know how you feel... what next? I can't start anything new with the transfer just 7 weeks away, but I'm already looking around for the next project truck. Guess the illness is incurable
- Thread starter
- #60
Assumption is the mother of all F@*# ups
After driving Kermit for about 110 km, when I got home I checked the oil, and at the same time I stuck my finger inside the 2F oil filler and what I felt concerned me
It felt
like the rockers were dry of oil and there were no pools of oil. This gave me a sleepless night so I decided to go through a process of ellimination.
The very next day, I removed the plugs and the rocker cover and cranked the engine over (this turned out to be my major cock-up of the day - will explain later) - to my concern there was only a few droplets of oil dripping out from under the rocker bearings. This also concerned me.
So I removed the rocker shaft to ensure that sufficient oil was reaching the rockers. Another concern, during cranking, once the oil pressure was reached only about a tablespoon full of oil came out of the oil feed. This also concerned me.
So I removed the head to check that (a) it was the correct head gasket and (b) the oil feed was not blocked by the gasket.
Upon removal of the head - all was OK. Cranked the motor over again and again only a tablespoon full of oil came out.
So new gasket and the head went back on, but this time with the rocker cover off, I started the motor, to my amazement there was oil dripping out of all of the rocker bearings and when the engine was revved there was oil everywhere.
So - Confucious he says "assumption is the mother of all fekkups" - my cock-up was - not starting the engine the first time I removed the rocker cover. :whoops:
Instead I had convinced myself that there WAS an oil flow problem and just went ahead stripping. Spent all of 6 hours stripping and reassmbling for nothing
After driving Kermit for about 110 km, when I got home I checked the oil, and at the same time I stuck my finger inside the 2F oil filler and what I felt concerned me
It felt
like the rockers were dry of oil and there were no pools of oil. This gave me a sleepless night so I decided to go through a process of ellimination.The very next day, I removed the plugs and the rocker cover and cranked the engine over (this turned out to be my major cock-up of the day - will explain later) - to my concern there was only a few droplets of oil dripping out from under the rocker bearings. This also concerned me.
So I removed the rocker shaft to ensure that sufficient oil was reaching the rockers. Another concern, during cranking, once the oil pressure was reached only about a tablespoon full of oil came out of the oil feed. This also concerned me.
So I removed the head to check that (a) it was the correct head gasket and (b) the oil feed was not blocked by the gasket.
Upon removal of the head - all was OK. Cranked the motor over again and again only a tablespoon full of oil came out.
So new gasket and the head went back on, but this time
with the rocker cover off, I started the motor, to my amazement there was oil dripping out of all of the rocker bearings and when the engine was revved there was oil everywhere.So - Confucious he says "assumption is the mother of all fekkups" - my cock-up was - not starting the engine the first time I removed the rocker cover. :whoops:
Instead I had convinced myself that there WAS an oil flow problem and just went ahead stripping. Spent all of 6 hours stripping and reassmbling for nothing