- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the offer Alan - I'll be sure to let you know if I don'tcome right here.
A South African BJ40 rebuild into a FJ40 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter tlc_4play
- Start date
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Thanks for the offer Alan - I'll be sure to let you know if I don'tcome right here.
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks as well - but I'm sure I'll come right eventually, also it'd be a schlepp lugging an alternator around as luggage
- Thread starter
- #23
Great work - it looks super!!! Would love to hear the story on the rear wheel wells (the before pics were interesting in an unflattering way). Like your remedy though.
.
The original wheel wells were cut by PO in Brisbane to suit a set of fibreglass wheelarch extensions that were for some perculiar reason were curved. I took of the fibreglass extensions as I have a set of flexiflares that I plan to fit and the curves just looked "yech" so I had my mate at the body shop return them as close as possible to original, and once the flexiflares are fitted the corners of the wheel well won't look as sharp.
M5driver
MUD Addict (Ret.)
Keith,
I have a spare alternator. Don't know how much of a flap it will be to airfreight from LLW, but we can work that out. Let me know if interested.
I think you are way ahead of me now. Should be seeing some blue paint at the panel beater's this week, but I'm too busy to go look. I hate it when work gets in the way of my hobbies
Dan
- Thread starter
- #26
Update
I managed to get one good alternator rebuilt from the parts of 4 Alternators.
Located and installed a two belt crank pulley for the 60 series PS
60 series PS mounted
The reinforcing (anti crush) bracket for PS rack
Alternator and two belt crank pulley
New master cylinder and vacuum booster installed
It broke my heart to cut a huge hole in the freshly painted rear panel for the long range tank filler
Due to the unavailability of most replacement weatherstrip and rubber seals it was necessary for me to cut my own from 3mm rubber sheet.
Mounted the overhauled Aisin carb
Fitment of the kick vents (Zimbabwe Air Conditioning) after installing the self cut rubber weather strip
Main tank filler
More updates to follow as work progresses.
I managed to get one good alternator rebuilt from the parts of 4 Alternators.
Located and installed a two belt crank pulley for the 60 series PS
60 series PS mounted
The reinforcing (anti crush) bracket for PS rack
Alternator and two belt crank pulley
New master cylinder and vacuum booster installed
It broke my heart to cut a huge hole in the freshly painted rear panel for the long range tank filler
Due to the unavailability of most replacement weatherstrip and rubber seals it was necessary for me to cut my own from 3mm rubber sheet.
Mounted the overhauled Aisin carb
Fitment of the kick vents (Zimbabwe Air Conditioning) after installing the self cut rubber weather strip
Main tank filler
More updates to follow as work progresses.
Nice work 
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #29
Update
This is the current state of the progress on the BJ-FJ rebuild
At one point I became disillusioned with the progress because I was putting in hours and hours of work, but visibly the progress was not tangible
Needless to say a few weeks later and the progress is now at last tangible and visible.
This is the current state of the progress on the BJ-FJ rebuild
At one point I became disillusioned with the progress because I was putting in hours and hours of work, but visibly the progress was not tangible
Needless to say a few weeks later and the progress is now at last tangible and visible.
Very nice!
very very nice work my man.... I am very impressed!!!
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks
Like I said - at some stages its hard to stay focussed and motivated cos you put in hours of work that just isnt visible
But its progessing nicely, I am hoping to get all the glass in by the end of Aug, (then I'll be in Europe on business for 3 weeks) and after that I should hopefully only have the headers and exhaust as the remaining major work - all the rest will be trimmings and finishes.
My targeted completion date is end Sept to mid Oct, but it's not cast in stone
Like I said - at some stages its hard to stay focussed and motivated cos you put in hours of work that just isnt visible
But its progessing nicely, I am hoping to get all the glass in by the end of Aug, (then I'll be in Europe on business for 3 weeks) and after that I should hopefully only have the headers and exhaust as the remaining major work - all the rest will be trimmings and finishes.
My targeted completion date is end Sept to mid Oct, but it's not cast in stone
man you started with a really clean truck... lots of guys trucks are not that nice after they get done working on them....
I know what you mean about doing weeks of work that you can not see... I am painting and putting body together now and every day is exciting
I know what you mean about doing weeks of work that you can not see...
I am painting and putting body together now and every day is exciting 
Well Done!
I love the incredibly neat wall mounted tool arrangement in that one photo.
Look forward to more reports...
Max
PS: Nice to see a 40 series getting all this attention in South Africa. I was born and raised in Cape Town...
I love the incredibly neat wall mounted tool arrangement in that one photo.
Look forward to more reports...
Max
PS: Nice to see a 40 series getting all this attention in South Africa. I was born and raised in Cape Town...
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks Max
You may not know, but there are probably only about fifteen original 40 series Cruza's in South Africa, because Toyota South Africa never imported the 40, only the 45, so they are extremely scarce.
Fortunately most of the 45 parts fit the 40 but some other parts like brakes and body were unique and are just not available and have to be imported either from US or Aus. Also the B and 3B diesels were never available here so local diesel engine parts are non existant.
You may not know, but there are probably only about fifteen original 40 series Cruza's in South Africa, because Toyota South Africa never imported the 40, only the 45, so they are extremely scarce.
Fortunately most of the 45 parts fit the 40 but some other parts like brakes and body were unique and are just not available and have to be imported either from US or Aus. Also the B and 3B diesels were never available here so local diesel engine parts are non existant.
- Thread starter
- #37
UPDATE
Getting the two drag links (tie rods) ready to be welded together -the big rod is from the 60 series and the smaller is the standard 40 tierod
Installed th first of the two battery brackets.
Made up the two brackets for the bucket seats and installed the bucket seats.
Had a new choke cable made up and installed it
Have also completed some modifications to the steering column in preperation for welding in the extended intermediate shaft and universal joint.
Getting the two drag links (tie rods) ready to be welded together -the big rod is from the 60 series and the smaller is the standard 40 tierod
Installed th first of the two battery brackets.
Made up the two brackets for the bucket seats and installed the bucket seats.
Had a new choke cable made up and installed it
Have also completed some modifications to the steering column in preperation for welding in the extended intermediate shaft and universal joint.
Very nice work 
- Thread starter
- #39
Update - Power Steering
I hit a snag with the power steering installation, I was following the instal done here by "Pablocruise"
The standard 60s TRE that has the mount for the steering damper has a left hand thread, and the 40s TRE on the steering knuckle is also a left hand thread - so there would be no adjustability
This is a left hand thread
This side of the 40s relay rod is also Left hand thread.
Notice where the 60's and 40's relay rods were spliced and welded together
I resolved this by using the 60s opposite side TRE, but then I had to make up a bracket to clamp to the relay rod for the mounting of the RTC damper.
I had all new hoses made up for the power steering pump and box, because the old ones were a little bit too short. At present there is no cooler attached, this is because it is still being made up.
This is the extended intermediate shaft
The additional UJ that was installed at the end of the 40's steering column
The finished installation
I hit a snag with the power steering installation, I was following the instal done here by "Pablocruise"
The standard 60s TRE that has the mount for the steering damper has a left hand thread, and the 40s TRE on the steering knuckle is also a left hand thread - so there would be no adjustability
This is a left hand thread
This side of the 40s relay rod is also Left hand thread.
Notice where the 60's and 40's relay rods were spliced and welded together
I resolved this by using the 60s opposite side TRE, but then I had to make up a bracket to clamp to the relay rod for the mounting of the RTC damper.
I had all new hoses made up for the power steering pump and box, because the old ones were a little bit too short. At present there is no cooler attached, this is because it is still being made up.
This is the extended intermediate shaft
The additional UJ that was installed at the end of the 40's steering column
The finished installation
