A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle (1 Viewer)

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Awesome! Yes - I have ordered an new outboard half shaft, new rotor and new brake line. I have also ordered a new brake line. Good catch on the bracket. The axle to Diff seal is brand new OEM as of 10 days ago.
Do you have any pointers on replacing the half shaft?

As for the dust shield and brake shield - I will wait to see what the replacement piece looks like before I order it. All said and done - I think it will be another $1000 in parts alone.

Classy, this is a terrible story... so sorry this happened to you, and I'm glad you and you family are safe. I also know how the wife's trust can be shaken when something like this happens, especially if you've had to talk her into in the first place. I consider myself fortunate that my father-in-law is also (well, was, at his age he doesn't work on cars much anymore) a shade-tree mechanic, and my wife grew up driving elderly Toyotas, so she has a bit more tolerance. But it still crops up in my household form time to time as well.

The thing to remember, of course, is that an LC is just a car. No matter how reliable they are, they can be fouled-up by incompetence, as you unfortunately experienced. It's not an indictment of the car, its an indictment of the work.

Have you decided to the do the repair work yourself? If not, I would highly recommend it. Nothing that you have to do is hard, per se, it's just heavy work. But it can be accomplished with time and basic hand tools. If you have a garage where you can lay up the rig for a week or two, you can work on it at your leisure. Read the FSM, ask for help on MUD, and follow all the directions. This way, you'll KNOW it was done correctly!

Paul's videos on the bearing/front end service are invaluable. I did this job a year ago following his instructions, with no prior experience. Took me a whole day.

I happen to agree with Paul that the three most critical things in the job are: 1) enough grease (too much is better than too little); 2) proper break-away preload, measured using a fish scale (the torque of the preload nut is not critical, other than as an indication that the bearing is excessively worn); and proper snap ring clearance. These are the three things that most shops--including the dealer--will commonly screw up. Hence why you do it yourself.

LCs are cars that are designed to be SERVICED. Most new cars--even other Toyota 4X4s--use non-serviceable bearings that are simply replaced. As a result, shops just don't have the expertise, or the desire to read the f'ing manual and do the job right.

Anyway, I don't have much more to add than to offer you encouragement... best of luck!
 
Replacement steering knuckle as I received it:

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Yeah definitely give it some love and clean her up. Clean the back to get a better idea of how that brass bushing looks like, seal should probably be replaced with that much rust. Give her a fresh coat of Rust Reformer/Chassis Saver/etc. once done and before you install to keep her nice afterwords.
 
I can see someone pound with a steel hammer, on that hub flange and hub to break apart. Doing that warps the face of wheel hub and hub flange. Than we can't get a good seal. I recondition with hammer and file to flatten out.
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May find some of this thread helpful.

Also look under Wheel bearings & Knuckle in my master thread index
 
Just noticed, like how the seller just clipped off the speed sensor instead of unbolting it. Makes me wonder how many of the bolts are seized on due to the amount of rust.

So going off what @2001LC said, you are going to need a new hub flange POTENTIALLY. I would probably replace just for good measure seeing how pounded on it has been. Then you are going to want to see how well you can clean up the nuts, washers and cone washers, possibly replacing those. Dust shield looks like it has seen better days which means it should potentially be replaced along with the gasket and seal for the backside against the rotator. Once you get apart you will see what the bearings, needle bearing under the brass bushing look like to have a better idea of what all is needed.

YUCK!!!! I am in similar position where I am dreading taking apart my hubs to see how badly 4WP techs really screwed things up. Planning to replaced just about everything there, now to include all bearings, brass bushing and needle bearings, for BOTH sides much like you. Luckily my truck was in warmer climates so there is little to no rust anywhere. I dealt with that on my 60 (A LOT) and am glad to not deal with it again, but damn this is getting ridiculous! I JUST WANT A NEW STEREO DAMNIT!!!
 
Wow- that used knuckle is rough to say the least. Can you return it? Have you checked cruiser parts for used options? They usually have good take offs.

Best bet is to get a good picture sent ahead of them shipping it.
 
Just noticed, like how the seller just clipped off the speed sensor instead of unbolting it. Makes me wonder how many of the bolts are seized on due to the amount of rust.

So going off what @2001LC said, you are going to need a new hub flange POTENTIALLY. I would probably replace just for good measure seeing how pounded on it has been. Then you are going to want to see how well you can clean up the nuts, washers and cone washers, possibly replacing those. Dust shield looks like it has seen better days which means it should potentially be replaced along with the gasket and seal for the backside against the rotator. Once you get apart you will see what the bearings, needle bearing under the brass bushing look like to have a better idea of what all is needed.

YUCK!!!! I am in similar position where I am dreading taking apart my hubs to see how badly 4WP techs really screwed things up. Planning to replaced just about everything there, now to include all bearings, brass bushing and needle bearings, for BOTH sides much like you. Luckily my truck was in warmer climates so there is little to no rust anywhere. I dealt with that on my 60 (A LOT) and am glad to not deal with it again, but damn this is getting ridiculous! I JUST WANT A NEW STEREO DAMNIT!!!
Wow- that used knuckle is rough to say the least. Can you return it? Have you checked cruiser parts for used options? They usually have good take offs.

Best bet is to get a good picture sent ahead of them shipping it.

It looks worse than it really is. In fact all the bearings are pretty smooth. Almost everything looks like this in midwest. A little elbow grease and some paint will hopefully make it looking good again.
 
All the disassembly went smoothly, no stuck or broken bolts. The rotor actually appears to be new. I think I will have it turned and then use it.

Anyone knows of a parts store that would put your parts in a washer for a fee? I seem to remember seeing a sign somewhere
 
Some NAPAs have machine shops, including turning rotors etc. You may inquire with your local napa to see where one is and if they can wash your parts while turning your rotor
 
Big bag o' goodies arrived from @cruiseroutfit . I think the needle bearing and the shallow brass bushings in the replacement hub are okay so I might not replace them.
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Very hard to tell if old needle bearing cooked or not. I clean very well and look before and after cleaning for discoloration, pitting or scoring.


Kunckle RH 00LX 557Km (1)c.jpg

They are very easy to replace if you do.
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Axle bearing & bushing RH done (3).JPG

Notice I used old bushing on top to press in new.
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Tap or press in until bushing flush with knuckle.
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But there is truly no better time than now to replace the needle bearing and bushing.
Exactly!! This is why I will probably just end up replacing all that garbage when I plan to do the hub flanges on my truck. One of those "while you're in there" type scenarios. In @ClassyJalopy scenario, this is best time instead of taking a chance.
 
Very hard to tell if old needle bearing cooked or not. I clean very well and look before and after cleaning for discoloration, pitting or scoring.


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They are very easy to replace if you do.
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Notice I used old bushing on top to press in new.
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Tap or press in until bushing flush with knuckle.
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So I got convinced that the proper thing to do is to replace the needle bearing. The trouble is I can't get it off! The bushing came out easily. Then I couldn't get much purchase on the outer race of the bearing and ended up destroying the inner race. All the needles fell off once the inner race came off. Now I am trying to figure out how to remove the outer bearing!
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I've never seen one stuck. You may have to dig out. If you can grab that lip next to where metal rip with vise grips. Then possible twist ripping the metal inward and roll out.
 
Installed fresh needle bearing and the shallow brass bushing. Pressed in new large seal and installed new oil seal with paper gasket. Knuckle is all ready to go
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Cleaned up the hub and got all surfaces prepped for installation. Started putting on the new rotor and stripped one of the bolts :bang:

Tried a theeading tool to rethread the hole but unfortunately it is too large. What are my options here? A helicoil insert or can I used a grade 10 through bolt with a nut?
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Installed fresh needle bearing and the shallow brass bushing. Pressed in new large seal and installed new oil seal with paper gasket. Knuckle is all ready to go
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Not sure about above, probably drill and tap for a size larger.

For this pic I would sand down, then smooth out (emory cloth) the place where the rubber seals for the ball joints will sit. With that surface clean and smooth it will ensure no water can get into the ball joints.
 

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