gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
At this point, just use a pry bar to hit it. Not attempting to save the axles, just need to pop it out.
A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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I've used 'big nasty' and a brass bar. Definitely not FSM approved 
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^^ This
Compress (push in) the axle as much as you can and then give it a few very deliberate pulls/yank - if it doesn't release, turn 1/4 turn and try again. I dont recommend this on an axle you plan to re-install as this can damage or pop out the retaining ring that keeps the bearing cage from falling out on inside joint.
- Thread starter
- #105
Decided to stop pounding on the axle. Picked up the hub from the machine shop all buttoned up (pic1). Packed up the new bearings and filled all cavities with fresh grease. Mostly all put together just need to deal with the axle and then torque it properly:
Not a big deal:
I like to install and torque in knuckle, before installing wheel hub on it. Makes much easier to handle with less weight.
I also like to flip the wheel bearing adjusting nut flat side in. It is how factory does both of them.
I like to install and torque in knuckle, before installing wheel hub on it. Makes much easier to handle with less weight.
I also like to flip the wheel bearing adjusting nut flat side in. It is how factory does both of them.
Wheel bearing preload set 14.5lb. 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser 4 of 6.
Sorry for wind noise & Video being cut short. Wheel bearing Preload of ~12.5lb, yielded 52ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut. Then install lock washer. Then l...
www.youtube.com
- Thread starter
- #109
I have been looking at your Youtube channel for each step - they are invaluable IMHO. I think I am on the home stretch here. I just need to find a hammer large enough to pound out the stubborn CV axle.
Paul - could you PM me your paypal ID? I would like to send a token of appreciation for all of your help.
Paul - could you PM me your paypal ID? I would like to send a token of appreciation for all of your help.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Just a head's up - Those new rotor to hub bolts that you have are class 8.8, whereas the OEM bolts are class 11T, the latter of which have >2 times the tensile and yield strength. I would consider replacing those with the OEM bolts before you put this back on the truck. Toyota OEM Bolt Markings
- Thread starter
- #111
It's mostly all put together. New brake line installed and brakes bled. I had to go all the way to 55 lb/ft to get 10 lbs of break away force! Hub turns rather easily by hand.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
You I take it you finally got the axle out... looking good dude!
I noticed that too- not good. However it appears it's too late- already looking like OP has buttoned it up. Somehow I dont get the sense that CJ is going back in.
- Thread starter
- #114
Yeah I ended up using a pickle fork (for ball joints) and hammering it in the gap between the axle and the diff. It budged only a little and then I was able to pull it out by pulling on the outer shaft.
Those don't look like Toyota bolts (disc to hub). That's asking for trouble IMO.
- Thread starter
- #116
You guys are breaking my heart. These are brand new class 8.8 steel bolts with lock washers. They were torqued to 57 lb fts. I was confident that they are good enough but now I am starting to worry
It's not a big deal to replace them, but it's a huge deal if they snap (or deform). I would replace them for new proper toyota ones for sure.
I hear ya- but down the road as these fatigue and then in a sudden braking event it could end badly mechanically or worse, its not worth it. Especially important if you ever sell the truck- you dont want the new owner to unknowingly drive it that way.
Here's your part number: 90105-12174 they are .94ea from partsouq ($3.19 locally!)- your all in shipped price would be around $16 and delivered to you in about 2-3 days.
This is what it looks like: flanged (there is no lock washer and FSM does not call for thread lock) torque spec is 54ft lbs.
Here's your part number: 90105-12174 they are .94ea from partsouq ($3.19 locally!)- your all in shipped price would be around $16 and delivered to you in about 2-3 days.
This is what it looks like: flanged (there is no lock washer and FSM does not call for thread lock) torque spec is 54ft lbs.
A few checks:
How did you settle grease on brass bushing, to set snap ring gap?
Which size snap ring was used gap?
You did de-grease both side of the rotor disk, before bolting up caliper, right!
What torque used on caliper mounting bolts?
BTW: I now replace caliper mounting bolts. Toyota, in the 200 series is now stating those are not reusable. They also use thread seals and reduce torque to 74ft-lbf to compensated for lubed threads (sealer).
After bleeding brakes how, long did booster motor run on test?
Remember to bed in your brake pads in, on first drive.
How did you settle grease on brass bushing, to set snap ring gap?
Which size snap ring was used gap?
You did de-grease both side of the rotor disk, before bolting up caliper, right!
What torque used on caliper mounting bolts?
BTW: I now replace caliper mounting bolts. Toyota, in the 200 series is now stating those are not reusable. They also use thread seals and reduce torque to 74ft-lbf to compensated for lubed threads (sealer).
After bleeding brakes how, long did booster motor run on test?
Remember to bed in your brake pads in, on first drive.
Couldn't agree more with every word of your post!
