A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle

[ClassyJalopy]

A few checks:

How did you settle grease on brass bushing, to set snap ring gap?

Which size snap ring was used gap?

You did de-grease both side of the rotor disk, before bolting up caliper, right!

What torque used on caliper mounting bolts?
BTW: I now replace caliper mounting bolts. Toyota, in the 200 series is now stating those are not reusable. They also use thread seals and reduce torque to 74ft-lbf to compensated for lubed threads (sealer).

After bleeding brakes how, long did booster motor run on test?

Remember to bed in your brake pads in, on first drive.

I used a pulley puller to pull out the axle as far as I could. The second thinnest lock was a super tight fit in the groove
The rotor was degreased before caliper was installed. I haven't timed the booster motor run time but ai did notice it ran a short time before stopping.

Can't remember the torque in caliper bolts but I did use blue thread locker on them.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I hear ya- but down the road as these fatigue and then in a sudden braking event it could end badly mechanically or worse, its not worth it. Especially important if you ever sell the truck- you dont want the new owner to unknowingly drive it that way.

Here's your part number: 90105-12174 they are .94ea from partsouq ($3.19 locally!)- your all in shipped price would be around $16 and delivered to you in about 2-3 days.

This is what it looks like: flanged (there is no lock washer and FSM does not call for thread lock) torque spec is 54ft lbs.
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Thanks for the part number. I very reluctantly ordered these from local dealer at $2 a pop and they won't get here until Saturday. I will have the displeasure of removing the hub and retorquing everything again.

I understand that Toyota wanted these things to be field serviceable but it feels that this front hub design is rather cumbersome. Why couldn't the rotor be sandwiched between the hub and wheel like everything else does. And the whole bearing torque thing is touchy at best. And finally a flimsy c clip to hold the axle in rather than a simple nut is also surprising.

All of that bitching is not pointed at you or others - I am very grateful for all the help I got.
I am just tired of dealing with the world's most reliable vehicle BS.

 

[flintknapper]

Wheel bearing preload set 14.5lb. 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser 4 of 6.

Sorry for wind noise & Video being cut short. Wheel bearing Preload of ~12.5lb, yielded 52ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut. Then install lock washer. Then l...

www.youtube.com

These are great videos, plenty of light, good explanations of what you are doing. I am a 'visual' learner...so these are very helpful to me. Good job and thanks for putting these together.

I'm also buying some stock in a petroleum company that makes grease.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thanks for the part number. I very reluctantly ordered these from local dealer at $2 a pop and they won't get here until Saturday. I will have the displeasure of removing the hub and retorquing everything again.

I understand that Toyota wanted these things to be field serviceable but it feels that this front hub design is rather cumbersome. Why couldn't the rotor be sandwiched between the hub and wheel like everything else does. And the whole bearing torque thing is touchy at best. And finally a flimsy c clip to hold the axle in rather than a simple nut is also surprising.

All of that bitching is not pointed at you or others - I am very grateful for all the help I got.
I am just tired of dealing with the world's most reliable vehicle BS.

Because it’s a hub and spindle design that has withstood the harshest conditions and abuse all over the world for more than 40 years. Similar design used on FJ40s dating back to 1975!

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Working on vehicles has good days and bad days. Everyone has them, even professional mechanics (which I am far from). I had to take the intake manifold off my Cayenne Turbo 4 times last week...and I managed to break an intake bolt off in the block which won't be fixed until next week when the $22 bolt comes in...

 

[2001LC]

I used a pulley puller to pull out the axle as far as I could. The second thinnest lock was a super tight fit in the groove
The rotor was degreased before caliper was installed. I haven't timed the booster motor run time but ai did notice it ran a short time before stopping.

Can't remember the torque in caliper bolts but I did use blue thread locker on them.

Good job.
That would be a 2.6mm snap ring, thickest is 2.8mm. Very good!

The blue thread locker is fine on caliper mounting bolts. But, whenever a bolt or nut is lubed, in and fashion. Be it thread locker or anti seize. Torque is reduced 20% to 30%. Next time in, be best practice to replace the bolts.

I just notice this. I'm a stock guy, but this aftermarket ball joints does look right? @abuck99 what your thought on this ball joint. No boot, no cotter pin locking the ball joint nut? Maybe, a one time use lock nut.

 

[2001LC]

*****
I am just tired of dealing with the world's most reliable vehicle BS.

I spend a great deal of time taking these rigs back to spec. They're very forgiving in the short run. But as we get further and further from spec or use non OEM parts. We reduce reliability.

Believe me, you're doing a better job than 90% of shops including Dealerships.

It's just here in mud and with the group you attracted, due to failure you had. You're going to hear about everything not to spec.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Believe me, you're doing a better job than 90% of shops including Dealerships.

It's just here in mud and with the group you attracted, due to failure you had. You're going to hear about everything not to spec.

I agree!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Working on vehicles has good days and bad days. Everyone has them, even professional mechanics (which I am far from). I had to take the intake manifold off my Cayenne Turbo 4 times last week...and I managed to break an intake bolt off in the block which won't be fixed until next week when the $22 bolt comes in...

Thanks for the kind words and am so sorry to hear about your Cayenne.
I am used to owning old, high mileage BMWs and all their plastic parts so I think I know wht you are talking about

 

[flintknapper]

Good job.
That would be a 2.6mm snap ring, thickest is 2.8mm. Very good!

The blue thread locker is fine on caliper mounting bolts. But, whenever a bolt or nut is lubed, in and fashion. Be it thread locker or anti seize. Torque is reduced 20% to 30%. Next time in, be best practice to replace the bolts.

I just notice this. I'm a stock guy, but this aftermarket ball joints does look right? @abuck99 what your thought on this ball joint. No boot, no cotter pin locking the ball joint nut? Maybe, a one time use lock nut.
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I think I'd definitely get that Ball Joint out of there. I'm OEM on the vast majority of parts, but I am going to put (555) upper and lower Ball Joints on my Wife's D/D (90% highway driving), I think they'll be O.K.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I think I'd definitely get that Ball Joint out of there. I'm OEM on the vast majority of parts, but I am going to put (555) upper and lower Ball Joints on my Wife's D/D (90% highway driving), I think they'll be O.K.

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I am running 555 lower BJs they seem pretty decent.
The uppers are Nitro Control arms with uniball type ball joints. I was lead to understand that they provide superior range of motion and are very robust.

 

[2001LC]

I think I'd definitely get that Ball Joint out of there. I'm OEM on the vast majority of parts, but I am going to put (555) upper and lower Ball Joints on my Wife's D/D (90% highway driving), I think they'll be O.K.

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Can you use a 555 in that aftermarket UCA?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Can you use a 555 in that aftermarket UCA?

No. Which is how they gouge you for more money, because only *their* ball joint will work with their UCA!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I have a couple of pairs of decent OEM UCAs one with OEM BJs and one with 555 BJs. But I am not sure whats the concern over theseNitro arms?

 

[2001LC]

I don't know that there is a concern. Just didn't look right without a cotter pin lock or boot. Normal for all I know!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I think I'd definitely get that Ball Joint out of there. I'm OEM on the vast majority of parts, but I am going to put (555) upper and lower Ball Joints on my Wife's D/D (90% highway driving), I think they'll be O.K.

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A lot of us run them, and a lot of us do so in trucks that we wheel with, me included. They’re solid joints, in my opinion. I don’t think Cruiser Outfitters would stock and sell them if they weren’t. All that to say that I think your wife’s truck will be just fine with them!

 

[abuck99]

I have a couple of pairs of decent OEM UCAs one with OEM BJs and one with 555 BJs. But I am not sure whats the concern over theseNitro arms?

No concern- (other than the single use nylock Paul was referencing) Nitro makes a good UCA. That open bj design has better longevity in non corrosive environments but you only need to replace when they get loose or noisey.

 

[gregnash]

Ok, so not to sideline things here but with the talk of the stock UCAs and ball joint replacement, does anyone have a good video or instructions on replacing those? From what I can tell it looks like they are pressed in from the top as there is a snap ring underneath, however I cannot tell for certain. My boots are completely gone and I have a set of new OEM boots to replace in the near future here but I am afraid, seeing the track record of how the PO cared for this truck (or lack there of), that I need to replace both upper and lower BJs. I did test them with the wheel off the ground and prybar under the wheel to see if there is any play and there was minimal, but I have nothing to compare to at this time.

@ClassyJalopy I can't remember but do you have a lift larger than 2" on your truck? Running bigger tires? Did you or PO install the TC UCAs?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Ok, so not to sideline things here but with the talk of the stock UCAs and ball joint replacement, does anyone have a good video or instructions on replacing those? From what I can tell it looks like they are pressed in from the top as there is a snap ring underneath, however I cannot tell for certain. My boots are completely gone and I have a set of new OEM boots to replace in the near future here but I am afraid, seeing the track record of how the PO cared for this truck (or lack there of), that I need to replace both upper and lower BJs. I did test them with the wheel off the ground and prybar under the wheel to see if there is any play and there was minimal, but I have nothing to compare to at this time.

@ClassyJalopy I can't remember but do you have a lift larger than 2" on your truck? Running bigger tires? Did you or PO install the TC UCAs?

I am at 2" lift. Previous 2 owners just religiously took it to the same Lexus dealership they bought it from so no mods whatsoever. I replaced the UCA bjs with 555 units. I had to destroy the boots and then pull off the C-clip. The bj itself gets pressed in from top IIRC. Upper were actually harder (more forced needed) to press out and in then the lowers.

 

[gregnash]

I am at 2" lift. Previous 2 owners just religiously took it to the same Lexus dealership they bought it from so no mods whatsoever. I replaced the UCA bjs with 555 units. I had to destroy the boots and then pull off the C-clip. The bj itself gets pressed in from top IIRC. Upper were actually harder (more forced needed) to press out and in then the lowers.

Ok thanks... So sounds like it may be better/easier to remove the UCA and press the BJ out with a shop press instead of trying with a normal C-clamp BJ press tool. No air impact for me (at this point) so it will be getting done by hand.