A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle

[ClassyJalopy]

Ok thanks... So sounds like it may be better/easier to remove the UCA and press the BJ out with a shop press instead of trying with a normal C-clamp BJ press tool. No air impact for me (at this point) so it will be getting done by hand.

I would say it's totally do-able with UCAs in place. Of course if you take then off then you can press in new bushings too!

 

[flintknapper]

I would say it's totally do-able with UCAs in place. Of course if you take then off then you can press in new bushings too!

^^^^

That's what I plan on doing. I have the bushings and Ball Joints already. I think that getting the Ball Joint started 'straight' might be the only problem posed if the Control Arm is left on the vehicle. Shouldn't be an issue for me with the unit removed and I have both a 'C' type press and a 12 ton floor model.

 

[abuck99]

I think you can find some images and documentation on pressing in bj's in @2001LC resto threads.

 

[gregnash]

I think you can find some images and documentation on pressing in bj's in @2001LC resto threads.

I did find some stuff on lowers, but uppers has been a different story.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Ok thanks... So sounds like it may be better/easier to remove the UCA and press the BJ out with a shop press instead of trying with a normal C-clamp BJ press tool. No air impact for me (at this point) so it will be getting done by hand.

Yes, much easier to do with the UCA out of the truck. Can do it with C-clamp press tool, but shop press is substantially easier.

You might be able to get away with just a reboot and not have to replace the ball joint. Depending on mileage and prior use, it’s an option if your existing joints have negligible play. Nevertheless, it’s a good time to replace the bushings as well if you decide to change ball joints!

 

[gregnash]

Yes, much easier to do with the UCA out of the truck. Can do it with C-clamp press tool, but shop press is substantially easier.

You might be able to get away with just a reboot and not have to replace the ball joint. Depending on mileage and prior use, it’s an option if your existing joints have negligible play. Nevertheless, it’s a good time to replace the bushings as well if you decide to change ball joints!

Right... My ball joints are completely torn and exposing the joint underneath. Luckily it has been a really dry winter so there has not been a lot of "muck" being splashed up into them and I have yet to do a real offroad jaunt with the truck (want to get the axles handled first). New OEM boots were fairly cheap through ToyotaPartsDeal.com so I grabbed both some for the uppers, lowers seemed fine. Should have the garage for a few days here shortly so plan to replace the lower front diff bushing and the ball joint boots during that time. Boots did not come with grease for the ball joints, so is standard wheel bearing grease ok or does it need a special grease like the axles?

I will start this convo over on my build thread so that we stop cluttering up @ClassyJalopy thread

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Back to the regular programming - I have pulled apart the driver side hub and thankfully nothing has been damaged (at least visually). The claw washer did concave a little and the bearings feel slightly crunchy so they will be all replaced. Also, the grease turned black!
I am soaking the parts in a cleaner and will post pics soon.

 

[flintknapper]

Yes, much easier to do with the UCA out of the truck. Can do it with C-clamp press tool, but shop press is substantially easier.

You might be able to get away with just a reboot and not have to replace the ball joint. Depending on mileage and prior use, it’s an option if your existing joints have negligible play. Nevertheless, it’s a good time to replace the bushings as well if you decide to change ball joints!

I expect to find some of the parts still good, just going to freshen it up anyway, be done with it (hopefully) previous owner (a lady/one owner) had all service work done at the dealership. Since we've had it (4 years)...its just been my Wife's D/D (highway miles to work) and limited travel on our ranch roads.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Here's what came out

Here's new bearing packed full of new grease

 

[flintknapper]

^^^^^

Dang. That 'mechanic' must have had a good impact and was not afraid to use it.

 

[gregnash]

The seal that is pictured is the one that goes on the back side of the spindle correct? What's the part number for that?

 

[ClassyJalopy]

The seal that is pictured is the one that goes on the back side of the spindle correct? What's the part number for that?

Part number 90311-70011 About $25 on a good day. Send me $15 and I will ship a nice very slightly use one to you

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Here's what came out
View attachment 2223454

Here's new bearing packed full of new grease
View attachment 2223455

All that is left to figure out a way to get some grease in the needle bearing and put a new c clip on.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

All buttoned up! I was able to fit the thickest c clip on the driver's side. It took almost 55 ft lbs of torque to get 12 lbs break away force on the new bearings. Test drive was eventless, thankfully!

I still need to tear up the passenger side again to replace the bolts with Toyota ones and I noticed slight seepage from the diff side seal for the driver side CV axle, so looks like I will be back fiddling with the front end in near future. I might rebuild the axle from the passenger side with a new outboard shaft to replace the DS axle but right now there aren't any issues with it.

Thanks everyone for your help, and support during another dark hour in the ownership of this LX so far. I will try to compile the total cost of this debacle and put it in post number 2 of this thread.

 

[gregnash]

Glad everything turned out well. Thanks for the offer on the lightly used seal but seeing as I am going that deep with new parts already, I am just going to throw some more new parts on it. Debating if I want to try and disassemble things to see what the seals look like when I have the spindle detached for the re-boot of the upper BJs.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Now the question is how do I test this newly put together front end to gain confidence for a road trip?
We are planning to visit Chicago this weekend (abt 350 miles round trip) but I am not sure I trust it enough to drive that far.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Drove 50 miles at 62mph and then checked the front wheels for play. None whatsoever! Also, the hubs were cool to touch, whereas they used to heat up before.
I am cautiously optimistic and trying to convince my wife that it's safe for a road trip

 

[flintknapper]

Drove 50 miles at 62mph and then checked the front wheels for play. None whatsoever! Also, the hubs were cool to touch, whereas they used to heat up before.
I am cautiously optimistic and trying to convince my wife that it's safe for a road trip

You're absolutely good to go. Don't give it another thought, it's fixed now for a good long time.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You're absolutely good to go. Don't give it another thought, it's fixed now for a good long time.

I agree!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Just returned from a 350 miles round trip. It was smooth rolling all the way!
I stopped after first hundred miles checked the temp of the hubs (just by touch), crawled on all fours and check for any leaks, sniffed around the front end for any burning smells and found nothing wrong.
I am hoping that this chapter can be closed now