Thank youNot a dumb question at all. With transfer in neutral, transmission doesn’t matter but I always ran my tranny in neutral
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Thank youNot a dumb question at all. With transfer in neutral, transmission doesn’t matter but I always ran my tranny in neutral
NeutralCurrently out on the road on my first flat tow trip. I only spent about 3 hrs checking and double checking that the transfer case was in N. Question for those with LXs, what suspension setting do you use?
You do NOT have to turn the key to aux. Simply turn key to on to unlock steering wheel and turn it to “off” and leave key in ignition so your steering wheel stays unlocked. You could even put a strap of Velcro across so it doesn’t get knocked out or come out on bumpy roads. So, key to on then to off and leave it in. Trans in Park. Transfer case in Neutral.I wired up my 05 LX 470 with a plug-in receptacle in the grill, wires and conduit under the bus and installed a set of towing bulbs right in the back headlamp assembly as others have done. Tried it out today hooked up to the bus and it works great. Definitely a more professional and elegant solution than magnet attached till late like I’ve used in the past. !!
Couple questions before reading through this entire thread again. I seem to remember some people discovered that you don’t have to turn the key on to auxiliary is that correct?
Also, could someone explain to me about running 12 V from the motorhome to the battery because I don’t understand if you can hook up a 12 V power connector, somehow directly to a battery or do you run a trickle charger on the battery powered by the motorhome 12 V? Thank you.
Well maybe I screwed up and didn’t turn it on one time but I ended up dragging my locked front wheels a couple blocks until I realized. Thankfully I didn’t do any damage but for the rest of the trip I left the key on ACC! Too paranoid now to turn it off.You do NOT have to turn the key to aux. Simply turn key to on to unlock steering wheel and turn it to “off” and leave key in ignition so your steering wheel stays unlocked. You could even put a strap of Velcro across so it doesn’t get knocked out or come out on bumpy roads. So, key to on then to off and leave it in. Trans in Park. Transfer case in Neutral.
Plenty of DIY YouTube videos to show you how to connect a 12v line depending on your coach wiring (4pin or 7pin). Connects directly to your battery or an RVI or Demco 12v inline charging device.
Much cheaper than a trailer for a 5800lb truck! Plus most RVs can’t handle the weight of the vehicle combined with the trailer.Cost comparison for all of these modifications vs buying a trailer?
Most RVs can’t pull the truck. The class A/diesel class can handle the truck and trailer.Much cheaper than a trailer for a 5800lb truck! Plus most RVs can’t handle the weight of the vehicle combined with the trailer.
The folks excited about this thread have an RV that can pull the truck and have a preference for flat tow with many reasons that only an RVer will appreciate.Most RVs can’t pull the truck. The class A/diesel class can handle the truck and trailer.
Hi Guys. I know this is an old thread, and I've read thru in detail this one and several others. Still uninformed or misinformed. I had read (somewhere?) that the 100 series LX can be flat towed behind an RV only through model year 2004- something about "mechanical vs electronic" transfer case . Now I've read in this thread that folks have flat towed up to model year 2007. Can someone enlighten me? I'm in the final stages of buying my LX (a 2003), but I've limited my search thru the 2004 model based on previous information. Thanks for any help.Hey Guys,
Many thanks to those of you who've provided input on another thread where I asked for info about towing my 1999 LX470. I'm starting this new thread to provide a "how to" regarding towing a 100 series behind an RV. In the last six weeks, we've rigged the 100 for towing and have pulled it over 2,500 miles. It wasn't completely without problems. In fact, one mistake cost me over $1,000 in repairs! But, that was not due to any deficiency in the 100. That was caused by an aftermarket braking solution we tried (see below).
((((EDIT ON FEB 2, 2015: After 2,500+ miles towing the 100 behind the RV, plus another 1,500 to 2,000 miles driving the 100, today I drained the differentials and transmission. Everything looked perfect.)))))
There has been much discussion about whether or not the 100 can be safely towed flat. Christo, Muddy Bean, and others have done it successfully, as have we. I feel confident that towing a 100 series on all four tires is just fine. Our average speed has been about 70 mph with extended time at 75+. On our first trip (about 1,000 miles round trip), I stopped at 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, etc and checked all the temps with an IR temp gun. No concerns whatsoever.
To tow the 100, we left the transmission in Park, put the transfer case in neutral, and turned the key to Accessory. Each time I check to make sure the steering wheel turns freely.
Accessories Needed
1. Brake Lights, Turn Signals, Running Lights: We did not want to tap into the LX's wiring, so we installed a new set of lights from Roadmaster. It was relatively simple to install. You just run four-flat wiring from the front of the 100 to the back, cut a one inch round hole in the back of the 100's tail lights (do NOT use a paddle bit!!!!!), install the kit's bulbs, and crimp a few wires. Maybe a 2 hour job. The kit's four-flat plug at the front of the 100 simply connects to the RV's wiring harness using a six- or seven-way to four-flat adapter. We also added an additional 12 volt "umbilical" from the RV to the battery on the 100 to keep it charged up. This was already a part of the wiring harness, so we just connected it to the battery and added a 20 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker in-line near the battery to prevent overcharging.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wir...tml?feed=npn&gclid=CKTMmrCkjcMCFejyMgodO38Afg
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Pollak/PK12716.html
2. Base Plate: We installed a Roadmaster "base plate", kit number 1151-1. It comes with two receiver-type mounts that bolt onto the 100's frame with three bolts. This allows you to connect the 100 to the tow bar on the RV. I don't see how this would work with an aftermarket front bumper. I just kept the stock bumper on the front.
https://www.etrailer.com/Base-Plates/Roadmaster/1151-1.html
3. Tow Bar: The Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain works perfectly with the base plate above. Note that in the link below you'll see a crossbar on the tow bar. That is not necessary in this setup.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bars/Roadmaster/RM-576.html
4. Braking System: We're required by law here in Texas to have a braking system on towed vehicles (at least of this size). We looked and looked, and the ONLY option is a braking system that sits in the floor in front of the driver's seat. After extensive research, the Blue Ox Patriot was our choice. None of the air brake systems will work on the 100 brakes. BEWARE! We destroyed our brakes with this system. In short, installation requires that you place the braking system in the floor, attach it to the 100's brake pedal, and push a button on the Patriot to have it initialize. Evidently, it placed just enough pressure on the brake pedal to cause the pads to touch the rotors...or it vibrated forward a fraction of an inch during highway travel, causing the pads to make contact. Regardless, we didn't notice for many miles, and on one of my stops to check everything I had tons of smoke coming from all four brakes. Long story short, they were fried, as was the grease in the front wheel bearings. It was a very expensive problem. I'm trying to get Blue Ox to pay for the repairs. It's a shame that there are no alternatives to this general type of braking system for 100's. With this exception, the 100 is a fantastic "toad" for an RV. I'm still working on a solution to make sure this doesn't happen again.
http://www.blueox.com/p-1626-patriot.aspx
5. Tire Pressure Monitoring System: Purely optional, but we got the Pressure Pro tire pressure monitoring system. That way, if we have a tire problem on either the RV or the 100, we know it immediately. The 100 is about 45-50 feet behind me when I'm driving the RV, and I wouldn't know it if a tire blew without this system.
http://www.advantagepressurepro.com/home.asp
I hope you guys find this info helpful!
Matt
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I’ve towed a 2006 and 1999 LX with no issues. Same procedures for both. I actually even used the same tow bar since it’s very easy to install. Some folks will put transmission in neutral for extra insurance but technically only need to put the transfer case in neutral. Both transfer cases are manual so not sure why some are saying the later years are electronic. The only problem I haven’t solved is how to keep 12v charge on the LX battery while towing. And now I’m reading that you may be able to get away with turning the key off and leaving it in so if that’s the case I probably won’t mess with running 12v.Hi Guys. I know this is an old thread, and I've read thru in detail this one and several others. Still uninformed or misinformed. I had read (somewhere?) that the 100 series LX can be flat towed behind an RV only through model year 2004- something about "mechanical vs electronic" transfer case . Now I've read in this thread that folks have flat towed up to model year 2007. Can someone enlighten me? I'm in the final stages of buying my LX (a 2003), but I've limited my search thru the 2004 model based on previous information. Thanks for any help.
That’s what I used on my 06 LX - worked greatHi all. Well, my 2006 LX will arrive in a couple weeks, and I'm looking to gather all the flat tow equipment I need ahead of time.
I've read that the Roadmaster MX Base Plate RM-1151-1 will fit nearby model years (eg 2003); anyone with an '06 baseplate installed? Thanks.
On my cruiser, you can turn the key to off, and it won't lock the steering until you remove the key..... You absolutely have to put the key in the ACC position. Otherwise your steering wheel wheel lock .....
I went with what you said but mine locked up. 05 LXOn my cruiser, you can turn the key to off, and it won't lock the steering until you remove the key.
That is: You have to put in the key and turn it to Acc to unlock the steering wheel, and then you can turn it back to Off without it locking.