A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve

[bryson]

Same part number and the fact that the receiver for the TXV is centered (not on one side or the other) suggests it is interchangeable. So yes....I would think so.

Part numbers are close, but they are not the same (LHD: 88501-60101, RHD: 88501-60111). I don't know what the difference is, but there is a reason the part numbers are different, and it wouldn't take much of a difference to make it totally unusable. Not worth the gamble IMO.

@94GLX Is the RHD part no longer available? Why can't you get the proper part?

 

[flintknapper]

Part numbers are close, but they are not the same (LHD: 88501-60101, RHD: 88501-60111). I don't know what the difference is, but there is a reason the part numbers are different, and it wouldn't take much of a difference to make it totally unusable. Not worth the gamble IMO.

@94GLX Is the RHD part no longer available? Why can't you get the proper part?

Yes, I see that now. At first glance I did not notice. Different part numbers don't necessarily mean the parts aren't interchangeable...but do indicate a change of some type (upgrade, change, new application).

 

[94GLX]

Part numbers are close, but they are not the same (LHD: 88501-60101, RHD: 88501-60111). I don't know what the difference is, but there is a reason the part numbers are different, and it wouldn't take much of a difference to make it totally unusable. Not worth the gamble IMO.

@94GLX Is the RHD part no longer available? Why can't you get the proper part?

I'm in Australia, and I found ordering the evaporator from the states to be much cheaper, so I was hoping to get away with a LHD unit.

 

[alia176]

If the two a/c lines enter the firewall at the same location, it stands to reason that they're going to the same destination under the dash. Still, it's a gamble.

Have you tried this site? Toyota | Genuine Parts Catalogs | PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

 

[Red Merle]

I am getting ready to tear into my system. I have all of the parts ready but I am striking out on trying to find a place to rent the gauges and vacuum pump from and I am just going to buy a set if I can get one for around the price of this unit.

The thing is, there are way too many of these for sale on eBay and I don't know enough about them to know whether something like this will be adequate. This will likely only get used for this project, at least that is what I am thinking right now, so I don't want to make the investment of buying a professional grade setup.

Will this thing work and if not, what should I be looking at?

A/C Diagnostic Tester Manifold Set R134a, 1/2HP 5CFM Vacuum Pump w/ Dual Fitting | eBay

 

[Dissent]

I am getting ready to tear into my system. I have all of the parts ready but I am striking out on trying to find a place to rent the gauges and vacuum pump from and I am just going to buy a set if I can get one for around the price of this unit.

The thing is, there are way too many of these for sale on eBay and I don't know enough about them to know whether something like this will be adequate. This will likely only get used for this project, at least that is what I am thinking right now, so I don't want to make the investment of buying a professional grade setup.

Will this thing work and if not, what should I be looking at?

A/C Diagnostic Tester Manifold Set R134a, 1/2HP 5CFM Vacuum Pump w/ Dual Fitting | eBay

I can't speak to that set but the first time I needed gauges, I did the loan a tool program from Autozone for about $125. Basically you buy them and if you return them you get your money back...otherwise you keep them. They weren't bad and didn't cost a dime in the end. I hear they rent vacuum pumps too. I want to own my personal setup now as I have 3x cars I want to work on.

I bought these on recommendation from my son's boss who uses Yellow Jacket in his HVAC business.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R75RR48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He said this pump should be fine for automotive work. Haven't used it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DMZA2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you use quality oil in the pump and swap it out right after a successful vacuum to preserve the pump life. There's moisture, acids and other contaminants in the oil after an evacuation. I used this oil.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UH3L8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Red Merle]

I can't speak to that set but the first time I needed gauges, I did the loan a tool program from Autozone for about $125. Basically you buy them and if you return them you get your money back...otherwise you keep them. They weren't bad and didn't cost a dime in the end. I hear they rent vacuum pumps too. I want to own my personal setup now as I have 3x cars I want to work on.

I bought these on recommendation from my son's boss who uses Yellow Jacket in his HVAC business.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R75RR48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He said this pump should be fine for automotive work. Haven't used it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DMZA2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you use quality oil in the pump and swap it out right after a successful vacuum to preserve the pump life. There's moisture, acids and other contaminants in the oil after an evacuation. I used this oil.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UH3L8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, my AutoZone nor any of the other stores rent the equipment. I think I am too far north for it to be a common thing.

The hoses and pump you showed do look very nice, I am just hoping to get the whole jalopy for about the price of the hoses.

Anyone else have experience with the cheapy sets?

Edit: I guess I will play guinea pig. I am ordering a set now. I will report back when and if I get the job done. I ended up going with this set. It looks a hair nicer, gets slightly better reviews and it comes with another case, which is nice in my shop as I have way too many tools.

5CFM Single Stage Vacuum Pump A/C HVAC Manifold Gauge for (R134a) Carrying Tote 846183166337 | eBay

 

[alia176]

I can't speak to that set but the first time I needed gauges, I did the loan a tool program from Autozone for about $125. Basically you buy them and if you return them you get your money back...otherwise you keep them. They weren't bad and didn't cost a dime in the end. I hear they rent vacuum pumps too. I want to own my personal setup now as I have 3x cars I want to work on.

I bought these on recommendation from my son's boss who uses Yellow Jacket in his HVAC business.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R75RR48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He said this pump should be fine for automotive work. Haven't used it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DMZA2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you use quality oil in the pump and swap it out right after a successful vacuum to preserve the pump life. There's moisture, acids and other contaminants in the oil after an evacuation. I used this oil.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UH3L8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is great info and surely will help others.

Curious about the oil for the pump. I've only added oil to the reservoir in the pump. Was I suppose to do something differently?

 

[Dissent]

This is great info and surely will help others.

Curious about the oil for the pump. I've only added oil to the reservoir in the pump. Was I suppose to do something differently?

The pump needs oil to operate oil of course but when you're finished, you're supposed to empty it and refill with fresh oil. Some people don't and it actually rusts their pumps and causes other contaminations from moisture, oils and acids sucked out of the AC system. The same type of pump is used for home freeze driers and I've seen where people will freeze the oil which locks the moisture and contaminates in ice, then the oil is just very cold and pours off to recycle. Most keep twice as much oil on hand to ensure they can cycle it over and over again.

 

[alia176]

The pump needs oil to operate oil of course but when you're finished, you're supposed to empty it and refill with fresh oil. Some people don't and it actually rusts their pumps and causes other contaminations from moisture, oils and acids sucked out of the AC system. The same type of pump is used for home freeze driers and I've seen where people will freeze the oil which locks the moisture and contaminates in ice, then the oil is just very cold and pours off to recycle. Most keep twice as much oil on hand to ensure they can cycle it over and over again.

Ok, that helps out a TON, thank you. I'll comply.

 

[Bambusiero]

Very cool! <--- dumb pun alert!
@alia176 thanks for documenting this.
Now it actually seems like an approachable job.

 

[GeoRoss]

I posted this in another thread, but think this is of interest for folks learning to do their own AC work.

This going to sound silly, but a thermometer will be extremely useful when charging. I’m only mentioning this because the $8 ones you get at a parts store probably need calibration. Since doing my AC system last year I’ve just kept the thermometer in the vent all the time. I’m a science geek and like data. A recent thread on R12 systems got me curious so I decided to get one for my 4Runner with R12 just for fun. There was some hinky stuff going on so I put both of them in the same vent. I found my original thermometer was reading about 8° warmer. They are simple to calibrate and I used a cup of water, alcohol thermometer and a 10mm wrench.

The good news is I found my R12 system runs about 40° in +105° ambient and the
Land Cruiser in the low 50’s. I was confused all last summer with 60° vent temps and thinking it felt fine.

Like I said this may be silly, but those cheap part store thermometers need to be confirmed.

 

[Dissent]

I posted this in another thread, but think this is of interest for folks learning to do their own AC work.

Greatly appreciated and nothing silly about that! I actually have an analog stick that matches my new electronic stick. I then bought 3x more matching electronics so I can measure the Ambient, the Vent, the Suction and the Dischaege temps! I want to make sure I capture as much data as I can. Oh, and the pressures too.

 

[Satyrod]

The setup of part numbers will be specific to your vehicle or system and can be readily identified by the last 8 of your vin.
Most reliable in accuracy of numbers is Toyota, if you are all original. I replaced my compressor in my rebuild and required a belt 2” longer than stock. Everything else went together well. I just cannot seem to find the receptacle for the water temp switch pigtail. It originates in the base of the heater core housing and interacts with the ac amp. Help!!!

 

[alia176]

Glad to see that my thread is still helping folks out. My 80 has freezing vent temps vs the 4runner that has mediocre vent temps. I'm still trying to understand what's going on with it but thankfully I have few identical 4runners to compare my numbers with. The evap in the 4Runner is just plain stupid to access I'd love to bitch slap with a dead fish the engineering team that came up with this hard to access design.

 

[Red Merle]

I am getting ready to put all of my stuff back together now and I have a question about the ND-8 oil and how much to use. I am replacing the compressor, condenser, evaporator core, expansion valve and drier. When I removed the shipping plate from the compressor, I dumped out the oil that was in it to check the amount in there. There was 100 ML.

My question is, according to the FSM, if I am replacing all of the stuff I mentioned, I should add around 125 ML to the compressor. Is this above the amount that was already in the compressor or the total? I dumped 125 ML into the compressor and then put the fitting plate from the old compressor on. I think I have this right, but I am second guessing the total amount of oil that should be in the compressor.

Any thoughts?

 

[Satyrod]

Perhaps alia176 can help me find the junction location for the water temp switch on my Landcruiser.

 

[Satyrod]

Perhaps alia176 can help me find the junction location for the water temp switch on my Landcruiser.

Alia176, do you have a photo of the wiring harnesses where the water temp switch from the base of the heater core connects into the system?

 

[Satyrod]

I am getting ready to put all of my stuff back together now and I have a question about the ND-8 oil and how much to use. I am replacing the compressor, condenser, evaporator core, expansion valve and drier. When I removed the shipping plate from the compressor, I dumped out the oil that was in it to check the amount in there. There was 100 ML.

My question is, according to the FSM, if I am replacing all of the stuff I mentioned, I should add around 125 ML to the compressor. Is this above the amount that was already in the compressor or the total? I dumped 125 ML into the compressor and then put the fitting plate from the old compressor on. I think I have this right, but I am second guessing the total amount of oil that should be in the compressor.

Any thoughts?

While a small amount of oil might escape the compressor over time and high demand usage, I can find no benefit from any significant amount of oil in the other parts of the system. Compressor oil capacity for a 1994 Landcruiser 134a system is dictated by the compressor manufacturer. For component replacement as follows:
Receiver 10cc
Condensor 40cc
Evaporator 40 cc
Compressor 120 cc

 

[flintknapper]

I am getting ready to put all of my stuff back together now and I have a question about the ND-8 oil and how much to use. I am replacing the compressor, condenser, evaporator core, expansion valve and drier. When I removed the shipping plate from the compressor, I dumped out the oil that was in it to check the amount in there. There was 100 ML.

My question is, according to the FSM, if I am replacing all of the stuff I mentioned, I should add around 125 ML to the compressor. Is this above the amount that was already in the compressor or the total? I dumped 125 ML into the compressor and then put the fitting plate from the old compressor on. I think I have this right, but I am second guessing the total amount of oil that should be in the compressor.

Any thoughts?

You will be adding PAG46/ND-8 oil to the following components...in the following amounts.

Begin by completely draining the compressor of the shipping oil. Do this thoroughly.

Add 1.5 ounces directly into your new condenser. Add 1.5 ounces directly into your new evaporator. Add .5 ounce directly into your new drier. Assemble parts. Add 4.2 to 4.5 ounces directly into your new compressor, turn slowly by hand to distribute. Install the manifold off of your old compressor onto the top of the new compressor. Use a NEW seal.

'Total' oil capacity will now be about 8 fl. ounces or just under (for the entire system).