A/C Clutch bearing feels dry. Replace the clutch and bearing or just install a new compressor?
- Thread starter OwnerCS
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
@Somebodyelse5 should know - he’s a bearing guy!
- Thread starter
- #23
LOL - I should show a picture of the twisted and mangled version that I removed. It was like one side of it was fused with the shaft. Removal was more like extracting a wisdom tooth.
Amazingly, the local AutoZone stocked the SanTech version. It looks correct. Then I have an unmangled version from the 3GT4R. I'll compare those and pick the most sturdy version.
More pictures to come. If the bearing removal was captured on video, it could have been a comedy.
So I take the pully and put it down on a working board and heat the body with the Milwaukee heat gun. Then I give it a trial tap with the 30mm socket and hammer.
BAM - surprise it breaks loose on the first tap.
(surprised facial expression) OH WOW, THIS IS GOING TO WORK!
I jumped up and found the nearest cylindrical metal object that would let the bearing push through the pulley.
This little project was cooked in less time than it would take to make some 2-minute Quaker Oats.
I have some wood blocks to make more socially acceptable pictures and a tip about having the correct type of clutch puller on hand before you start.
I wonder how many compressors have been replaced when only a new bearing was needed?
Side story, this maintenance was part of a wider effort to replace all bearings (except a newly rebuilt alternator) to prepare for a long trip. I know that I have dodged a few bullets by this preemptive maintenance.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Not something that I am certain of, but me thinks they needed a wide clip and that shape allows it to deflect easily while still hitting the dimensions they need. Why they went that route vs the typical teardrop shape we use in the US? i dunno
Bingo.
In order to have the width (surface area) required but still allow the clip to be expanded (with a hand tool) the shape was necessary. IF it were one solid piece (at that width) it would have to be unduly thin in order to be able to expand it (to remove or replace) and wouldn't hold up. The answer was to 'stagger' the body of the clip. You get the width (contact area) needed, a clip thick enough to hold up, but also pliable enough to expand for installation
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- #26
The new bearing arrived a day early. It is much smoother than the old bearing.
There are some little that appear to be pushed over after the bearing is seated. What is the consensus for dealing with these little tabs?
I have a 36mm that will ride on the outer edge of the bearing for the final tap into place.
Since the Wits' End seal press tool is easy to handle, I might use it to get the bearing started, then finish it off at the end with the 36mm.
Not that I don't mind buying tools, I'm looking to give this a sporting chance using tools that I already have.
30BD5222DUMF8A ? Different part number?
30BD5222DUMF6 has interchange part numbers 30BD5222DUM8A -- Made in the USA?
There are some little that appear to be pushed over after the bearing is seated. What is the consensus for dealing with these little tabs?
I have a 36mm that will ride on the outer edge of the bearing for the final tap into place.
Since the Wits' End seal press tool is easy to handle, I might use it to get the bearing started, then finish it off at the end with the 36mm.
Not that I don't mind buying tools, I'm looking to give this a sporting chance using tools that I already have.
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Use a thin smear of assembly grease on the race to assist your process- Wit’s tool is for seals and you might booger it on the bearing.
Set it on top- and gently tap it in straight- it may want to walk out but if you tap it straight on it should seat enough to drive it home.
I am curious of that bearing seal being blue- usually light brown for heat & dust application- black is lesser tolerant to heat, so I wonder about blue??
Set it on top- and gently tap it in straight- it may want to walk out but if you tap it straight on it should seat enough to drive it home.
I am curious of that bearing seal being blue- usually light brown for heat & dust application- black is lesser tolerant to heat, so I wonder about blue??
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- #28
There is a color chart in the following PDF. It looks like deep red is better than blue.
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- #29
=Buying a new snap ring. The dealer happened to have one in stock. The SanTech is much too big. The old one from the 3GT4R stretched and will not make a tight fit.
- Thread starter
- #31
No kidding. Shocker!
The big one is the SanTech. The smaller one is from the 3GT4R. The twisted one is the original.
I think heat from use may have annealed the 3GT4R so it lost it spring.
Good for onlookers to know not to bother with the Santech option- your public service good deed karma points are adding up
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- #33
I've got some good pictures once I see it working.
One disappointment was the lack of being able to rent or buy an A/C clutch puller. AutoZone doesn't stock them. No place to rent around here. I couldn't find an alternative.
My current puller shaft was way too long to use without pulling the radiator. Since I had the shroud already out, I pulled the radiator in 30 minutes or less. Once I pulled the radiator I gave it and the condensor a good wash out. Both left an amount of mud on the driveway that had caked up in the radiator and condensor. At the end of the day, I feel good about pulling the radiator and giving it a good bath..
My advice is for normal people to secure an A/C clutch puller before you start. Ha!
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- #35
I saw that but didn't see how without pulling the pulley outward.
A 12 mm bolt- 12mm x ??mm 12x 25,35,40?
Looking good. Now just be sure to get your 'air gap' right and you're home free.
Good job and good write up.
Good job and good write up.
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- #39
Looking good. Now just be sure to get your 'air gap' right and you're home free.
Good job and good write up.
Ordered and picked up 2 packages of 3 shims from the dealer tonight + we already had 2 loose shims from the SanTech kit. I should have 8 shims total. It was a bit tight this evening. Need to add shims in the morning. I'll be looking for an air gap that is about .020"
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
So, seal colors are arbitrary. That chart won't apply across brands and is not industry standard. FAG, Barden, Koyo, INA, Timken, etc will use whatever colors and sometimes not even specify a color for certain product lines. There may be a certain spec that calls out colors for uses, but unless that bearing is made to that spec, the colors don't mean anything.
There is an incredible about that goes into a bearing and in our non-critical application there are going to be quite a few options that will work... may have an extra ball, may have a different ball grade, different seal geometry, etc etc. Also, bearing manufacturers will often part mark with whatever the OEM asks for... so Toyota has the option of getting a specific designation marked on all of the bearings, driving users to OEM vs bearing suppliers.
I am also going to use this opportunity to drive home that over filling a bearing with grease will lead to over heating and premature failure! ~30% infill is typically sufficient... more infill is OK the slower the application.
