A/C Clutch bearing feels dry. Replace the clutch and bearing or just install a new compressor? (1 Viewer)

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OwnerCS

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The A/C clutch bearing feels dry. It won't be long before it goes out. The A/C has been working very well. I've had no need to touch it since I bought it.

I've been able to just swap in a new clutch on some of my other vehicles without removing the compressor. A new OEM clutch kit is roughly $118.

I'm not seeing much activity about a new Denso 471-1220 compressor. It looks like Denso moved their compressor manufacturing to China.

My latest Toyota A/C replacement success story has been with a compressor brand from Korea named UAC that I bought at RockAuto.

Does anyone have experience with a new Denso 471-1220 compressor?


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I would just replace the clutch and bearing. There’s a good write up on doing that somewhere around here.


Agreed. On certain other vehicles my recommendation would be to just replace the compressor. But IF the unit has performing well up to now and not leaking significantly, I would be inclined to replace the clutch and bearing. The compressor on the 100 series is none too friendly to change out so if the clutch and bearing can be done in place (and they can) that is the way to go.

Later...IF the compressor gives up the ghost, you would still have a spare clutch after replacing the compressor.
 
Agreed. On certain other vehicles my recommendation would be to just replace the compressor. But IF the unit has performing well up to now and not leaking significantly, I would be inclined to replace the clutch and bearing. The compressor on the 100 series is none too friendly to change out so if the clutch and bearing can be done in place (and they can) that is the way to go.

Later...IF the compressor gives up the ghost, you would still have a spare clutch after replacing the compressor.

Good point. Let me see if I can find a clutch replacement thread.
 
Good point. Let me see if I can find a clutch replacement thread.
Start a replacement thread- Im looking on with interest.

Merry Christmas Ya'll
 
I have a spare compressor with a clutch from a 3GT4R in the garage. The clutch bearing is nice and smooth.

Although the compressors look very similar, I doubt that I would be lucky enough for it to work. I could use it for a pratice run.
 
I have a spare compressor with a clutch from a 3GT4R in the garage. The clutch bearing is nice and smooth.

Although the compressors look very similar, I doubt that I would be lucky enough for it to work. I could use it for a pratice run.
If you’re looking for a cheap swap, I’m 98% positive that 3GT4R bearing fits the 100’s compressor. Should be 30x52x22 mm bearing on both vehicles.

Also, I think @nissanh is who did the thread on replacing the clutch and bearing.
 
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Thank you. It gives a way to fix it using a part that I already have in the workshop. 👍

If you’re looking for a cheap swap, I’m 98% positive that 3GT4R bearing fits the 100’s compressor. Should be 30x52x22 mm bearing on both vehicles.

Also, I think @nissanh is who did the thread on replacing the clutch and bearing.

 
Thank you. It gives a way to fix it using a part that I already have in the workshop. 👍
I showed the replacement of the bearing. Do NOT use cheap chinese bearing. I used it once and lasted only 6000 miles. The dimentions are given above. I think those bearings are made by NSK.
 
I showed the replacement of the bearing. Do NOT use cheap chinese bearing. I used it once and lasted only 6000 miles. The dimentions are given above. I think those bearings are made by NSK.

^^^^^

Correct.

Also, the clutch surfaces themselves should be checked for wear or scoring before considering replacing only the bearing.


AC clutch bearing.jpg

AC clutch surfaces.JPG
 
Thank you. for the pictures. I ordered a new NSK 30BD5222DUM6 that should be arriving on Tuesday.

I will be fussing with spring clip removal today. I had to get some better external style spring clip removal pliers yesterday. I finished removing the fan bracket for that replacement yesterday.


Amazon product ASIN B007WEOFVM

I showed the replacement of the bearing. Do NOT use cheap chinese bearing. I used it once and lasted only 6000 miles. The dimentions are given above. I think those bearings are made by NSK.

^^^^^

Correct.

Also, the clutch surfaces themselves should be checked for wear or scoring before considering replacing only the bearing.


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View attachment 2874539
 
Once you remove the 10 mm center bolt, you'll reomve the circlip. From my experience, I had the most difficulty removing this circlip due to the straight plier I used. I did not remove the fan bracket to replace the AC bearing. You can pull the pully off by threading a 12 mm bolt into the enter of the pully.
 
Once you remove the 10 mm center bolt, you'll reomve the circlip. From my experience, I had the most difficulty removing this circlip due to the straight plier I used. I did not remove the fan bracket to replace the AC bearing. You can pull the pully off by threading a 12 mm bolt into the enter of the pully.

👍 For sure..The practice run on the 3GT4R compressor was helpful. I'm doing "stacked maintenance" this weekend with the fan bracket. So I have more room to work with fan replacement happening at the same time.

I had to buy better external circlip removal pliers. Here's a picture of the circlip before I removed it.


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Ok. I got it out. It didn't want to come out without a twist. My puller is too large. I need to find something different to pull the pulley.
 
^^^^^

Correct.

Also, the clutch surfaces themselves should be checked for wear or scoring before considering replacing only the bearing.


View attachment 2874538
View attachment 2874539

How does this clutch wear look to our experts?

My next challenge is to find a way to press out the old bearing and press in a new one.

The C part of a parts store rental ball joint press cannot reach across the clutch body to get a straight on alignment.


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With out a press, (and this isn’t the perfect procedure) but you can tap the old bearing out with an appropriately sized socket. Freezing the new bearing for 30min to insert using the reverse method- just being careful to have the socket riding on the edge of the outer race- taping into place.
 
With out a press, (and this isn’t the perfect procedure) but you can tap the old bearing out with an appropriately sized socket. Freezing the new bearing for 30min to insert using the reverse method- just being careful to have the socket riding on the edge of the outer race- taping into place.

It worked. Here's the secret sauce.

Milwaukee heat gun to heat up the pulley body.
30mm socket.
Hammer - 2 to 3 smacks

The old fan pulley was used to keep the other pulley up and off and away from the concrete floor while I tapped the bearing through the old pulley.
Pulley can be substituted with an old brake rotor.



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Two blocks of wood side by side with a gap between them also works well, but a vise is the ticket.

Oh, I forgot that I have a vice. I'll use that on the installation. I didn't expect removal to be this easy. :bounce:
 

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