i would stay away. indicative of poor condition/sloppy ownership and its gonna have other problems.
A beginners guide to buying a used GX470
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Hi everyone,
Brand new to the forum, I've been looking for a GX 470 in the northeast and have narrowed down my options to three (I saw 10). I would love opinions on the options... I have several pictures and Carfax for service history. I don't want to spam the thread and not sure how to go about this, but I would anyone would be willing to share their opinion I can share more pictures.
I don't do rock crawling, but I'm planning on lifting and putting 285s on whichever I get. I'll be camping and potentially living out of the truck/camping for up to a couple weeks at a time.
Option 1: 2008 w/ DSST - 160k miles, low rust for northeast. I'm having this one inspected tomorrow. First owner was a lease so service was all done by Lexus, sold as certified preowned. Second and third owner had no service work showing up on carfax. One "minor" damage in the front was reported on Carfax. Everything stock. Cleanest interior, driven in PA most of its life. No significant cosmetic damages, no flaking on paint, no cracks on dash.
Option 2: 2007 w/o DSST - 142k miles, rust not at all bad for northeast (just surface). This truck is already lifted with the 2.5 Toytec front and rear, with adjustable upper control arms in front. Roof rack installed, 285 BFG tires on aftermarket wheels. Not much service history but I know the previous 2 owners, one of which is a mechanic. I had this one inspected with a leak in both front axles, leak in rack and pinion, new brakes and rotors needed, low battery, slight leak in ac condenser. Sounds great, runs great, but issues that will need attention eventually. Cracks on dash, decent interior otherwise.
Option 3: 2005 w/o DSST 155k miles, posted on classifieds here For Sale - Elizabeth, NJ - 2005 GX470 155k Miles - 2nd Owner - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/elizabeth-nj-2005-gx470-155k-miles-2nd-owner.1279863/
Prices are all within range for me, so the lifted one is enticing, but I'm curious whether you all think the underlying issues are an indication that I should stay away. Part of my likes the idea of having a clean stock truck to spec out myself, but I also really like the work done on the modified one, and wouldn't mind either way. I just want something that will last the longest!
Thanks, and I really hope this is okay to post! If you're willing to help, I'd love to share several pictures I took of underbody condition, but I'm not sure this is the place to do it.
Brand new to the forum, I've been looking for a GX 470 in the northeast and have narrowed down my options to three (I saw 10). I would love opinions on the options... I have several pictures and Carfax for service history. I don't want to spam the thread and not sure how to go about this, but I would anyone would be willing to share their opinion I can share more pictures.
I don't do rock crawling, but I'm planning on lifting and putting 285s on whichever I get. I'll be camping and potentially living out of the truck/camping for up to a couple weeks at a time.
Option 1: 2008 w/ DSST - 160k miles, low rust for northeast. I'm having this one inspected tomorrow. First owner was a lease so service was all done by Lexus, sold as certified preowned. Second and third owner had no service work showing up on carfax. One "minor" damage in the front was reported on Carfax. Everything stock. Cleanest interior, driven in PA most of its life. No significant cosmetic damages, no flaking on paint, no cracks on dash.
Option 2: 2007 w/o DSST - 142k miles, rust not at all bad for northeast (just surface). This truck is already lifted with the 2.5 Toytec front and rear, with adjustable upper control arms in front. Roof rack installed, 285 BFG tires on aftermarket wheels. Not much service history but I know the previous 2 owners, one of which is a mechanic. I had this one inspected with a leak in both front axles, leak in rack and pinion, new brakes and rotors needed, low battery, slight leak in ac condenser. Sounds great, runs great, but issues that will need attention eventually. Cracks on dash, decent interior otherwise.
Option 3: 2005 w/o DSST 155k miles, posted on classifieds here For Sale - Elizabeth, NJ - 2005 GX470 155k Miles - 2nd Owner - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/elizabeth-nj-2005-gx470-155k-miles-2nd-owner.1279863/
Prices are all within range for me, so the lifted one is enticing, but I'm curious whether you all think the underlying issues are an indication that I should stay away. Part of my likes the idea of having a clean stock truck to spec out myself, but I also really like the work done on the modified one, and wouldn't mind either way. I just want something that will last the longest!
Thanks, and I really hope this is okay to post! If you're willing to help, I'd love to share several pictures I took of underbody condition, but I'm not sure this is the place to do it.
No mention of frame condition (rust/no rust) in the listing. I recently had to get rid of my 470 that I bought in upstate NY 6 years ago due to excessive frame rust. If I were you, I'd look for something in the southwest. Fly out and drive it back home.
^ This. It’s worth the premiums get a clean one.
Gx470s kryptonite = rust
Can you let me know what you think of this? I thought it wasn’t bad but I’m now curious what you think.
Lol…. I cringe when I see that much rust on a vehicle. Especially if I have to work on it! I think you can do a lot better. Try not to rush. It will be worth a plane ticket to get one rust free. There’s always a handful for sale in Phoenix (Craigslist). Also think about modifying and repairing a rusted vehicle. Could be a nightmare!
Thanks for all the advice! I won’t rush into anything.
Sounds like I need to take a flight. But now I’m hesitant to go for one of these at all in the next year bc I’ll be moving to the west coast in just over 1 year.. what’s the point of driving one back to the east and put it through one winter only to bring it back to the west? Tough decisions.
Sounds like I need to take a flight. But now I’m hesitant to go for one of these at all in the next year bc I’ll be moving to the west coast in just over 1 year.. what’s the point of driving one back to the east and put it through one winter only to bring it back to the west? Tough decisions.
I would just wait, if that's doable in your timeline. Especially if you're relocating long term. I recently moved from PA to TX. The new GX I bought is 100% rust free; something I would have never been able to find in Pittsburgh. New trucks on lots in PA would already have rust on the welds haha.
Here we go again with folks who live in dry climates recommending passing on a GX with minor rust 
.
Minor surface rust on a GX can easily be stopped by undercoating using Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown, etc., and touching it up annually. The rust on the second GX looks no worse than my GX, and I've stopped it with the undercoating, which is an easy DIY at a cost of $200 including the spray application gun. See my build thread for a before-and-after on mine. Undercoating is a lot cheaper than plane tickets, fuel, hotel rooms, etc that are needed to get one from far away.
The worst parts on these are:
1. The front radiator core support. Probe this area with a screwdriver to verify that it is just surface rust and you haven't lost any actual metal thickness.
2. The passenger side frame rail behind the passenger side tire. The frame will rust on the inside in this area as the AC condensation line drips here and there are overlapping sections of meal on the inside of the frame (water gets drawn in the gap). You'll need to shine a light inside the frame here, through the small rectangular hole (visible in the wheelwell) and make sure the frame is OK. If rust is bad here, and you have holes, pass on the GX.
3. The rear frame rails behind the rear axle and the rear crash bar. Crud can accumulate here. Same as Item 1, inspect the area with a screwdriver and make sure there aren't any holes. Same thing, if rust is bad here and you have holes, I'd pass.
Despite what others say, working on a vehicle with some rust is not that bad (unless it is a total rust bucket - which the posted one does not appear to be). I've only had to deal with maybe 4-6 broken bolts on the undercarriage. I've also replaced the entire suspension on my GX when I lifted it, so there are not a lot of bolts/nuts that I haven't loosened. Undercoating will also act as a penetrating oil and free things up.
Even if you do fly to a drier climate to get a rust-free GX, undercoat it as soon as you get back! A rust-free one will start rusting after a single winter.
.Minor surface rust on a GX can easily be stopped by undercoating using Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown, etc., and touching it up annually. The rust on the second GX looks no worse than my GX, and I've stopped it with the undercoating, which is an easy DIY at a cost of $200 including the spray application gun. See my build thread for a before-and-after on mine. Undercoating is a lot cheaper than plane tickets, fuel, hotel rooms, etc that are needed to get one from far away.
The worst parts on these are:
1. The front radiator core support. Probe this area with a screwdriver to verify that it is just surface rust and you haven't lost any actual metal thickness.
2. The passenger side frame rail behind the passenger side tire. The frame will rust on the inside in this area as the AC condensation line drips here and there are overlapping sections of meal on the inside of the frame (water gets drawn in the gap). You'll need to shine a light inside the frame here, through the small rectangular hole (visible in the wheelwell) and make sure the frame is OK. If rust is bad here, and you have holes, pass on the GX.
3. The rear frame rails behind the rear axle and the rear crash bar. Crud can accumulate here. Same as Item 1, inspect the area with a screwdriver and make sure there aren't any holes. Same thing, if rust is bad here and you have holes, I'd pass.
Despite what others say, working on a vehicle with some rust is not that bad (unless it is a total rust bucket - which the posted one does not appear to be). I've only had to deal with maybe 4-6 broken bolts on the undercarriage. I've also replaced the entire suspension on my GX when I lifted it, so there are not a lot of bolts/nuts that I haven't loosened. Undercoating will also act as a penetrating oil and free things up.
Even if you do fly to a drier climate to get a rust-free GX, undercoat it as soon as you get back! A rust-free one will start rusting after a single winter.
The truck posted above is cleaner underneath than mine was when I bought it 9 years and 140K kms ago!
I think the point I’m trying to make is rust free reasonably priced GX’s are out there and would be a better buy. If the market completely dried up and your choices were very limited then that’s a different story. Paying a little more now for little to no rust pays more dividends later on. It’s the same thing I tell people when the ask me what used car to buy. Pay more to get a Toyota or Lexus, it’s worth it. That other mfg’s vehicle is much cheaper for a reason.Here we go again with folks who live in dry climates recommending passing on a GX with minor rust
Minor surface rust on a GX can easily be stopped by undercoating using Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown, etc., and touching it up annually. The rust on the second GX looks no worse than my GX, and I've stopped it with the undercoating, which is an easy DIY at a cost of $200 including the spray application gun. See my build thread for a before-and-after on mine. Undercoating is a lot cheaper than plane tickets, fuel, hotel rooms, etc that are needed to get one from far away.
The worst parts on these are:
1. The front radiator core support. Probe this area with a screwdriver to verify that it is just surface rust and you haven't lost any actual metal thickness.
2. The passenger side frame rail behind the passenger side tire. The frame will rust on the inside in this area as the AC condensation line drips here and there are overlapping sections of meal on the inside of the frame (water gets drawn in the gap). You'll need to shine a light inside the frame here, through the small rectangular hole (visible in the wheelwell) and make sure the frame is OK. If rust is bad here, and you have holes, pass on the GX.
3. The rear frame rails behind the rear axle and the rear crash bar. Crud can accumulate here. Same as Item 1, inspect the area with a screwdriver and make sure there aren't any holes. Same thing, if rust is bad here and you have holes, I'd pass.
Despite what others say, working on a vehicle with some rust is not that bad (unless it is a total rust bucket - which the posted one does not appear to be). I've only had to deal with maybe 4-6 broken bolts on the undercarriage. I've also replaced the entire suspension on my GX when I lifted it, so there are not a lot of bolts/nuts that I haven't loosened. Undercoating will also act as a penetrating oil and free things up.
Even if you do fly to a drier climate to get a rust-free GX, undercoat it as soon as you get back! A rust-free one will start rusting after a single winter.
I’ve been able to change my front and rear sway bar end links, bumpstops, and shocks with no rust issues. Just one front shock kinda stuck.
Front UCAs and LCAs. Replaced diff support bracket with newer one, added diff spacers, added skid plates, extended rear diff breather, added beefier recovery points, etc.
That’s a lot of potentially rusted bolts that could be a problem in a hard to identify possible rust bucket.
Original poster asked for opinions. Not all of us are experts in inspecting a rust bucket on first inspection. Not everyone wants to take extra risks of having rust related issues down the road.
@Rednexus you seem to like to take extra risks with p-tires and rust, so you have a greater tolerance for risk and you feel you can mitigate those risks with your skills to overcome those challenges as they arise.
Front UCAs and LCAs. Replaced diff support bracket with newer one, added diff spacers, added skid plates, extended rear diff breather, added beefier recovery points, etc.
That’s a lot of potentially rusted bolts that could be a problem in a hard to identify possible rust bucket.
Original poster asked for opinions. Not all of us are experts in inspecting a rust bucket on first inspection. Not everyone wants to take extra risks of having rust related issues down the road.
@Rednexus you seem to like to take extra risks with p-tires and rust, so you have a greater tolerance for risk and you feel you can mitigate those risks with your skills to overcome those challenges as they arise.
That is not an inaccurate statement, as I've been wrenching for over 20 years. However I would not consider P-tires risky as they are factory-spec'd on the GX (and countless other trucks and SUVs), and undercoating is also a relatively low-skill and low-cost endeavor to undertake.
Regarding the rust, my point is that it can be addressed, and that those of us who live in rusty areas have figured out how to deal with it and not pass on GX's that are reasonably priced and not structurally compromised, but do have some surface rust. If you have not lived in a rusty area or worked on a vehicle with some rust before, I can see how the unknown of it might seem challenging. I've literally been completely through my GX's suspension know (front/rear UCAs, shocks, springs, bumpstops) and have only encountered a few problem bolts.
It’s not the relative ease of undercoating that’s the issue. It’s the extra time and cost of dealing with rusty bolts or rusty areas. A relatively simple install can turn into hours trying to get the rusted bolt out, then getting the new bolt purchased, and hopefully the threaded hole on frame doesnt need repair.
Time is money for some DIY jobs or at the mechanic.
And all the components on the GX are factory spec’ed, so why upgrade anything? E-load tires offer better side wall strength under heavier loads than p-tires. And sidewall puncture is sometimes not repairable on the trail. That’s the risk I’m trying to mitigate in the terrain that I encounter here in SoCal. E-tires, a spare, and a tire repair kit.
I’ve seen people in a Prius with p-tires in Death Valley. Im not saying that’s the best way to explore Death Valley, but they do get great gas mileage and they are out there exploring some of the easier trails in the valley.
Time is money for some DIY jobs or at the mechanic.
And all the components on the GX are factory spec’ed, so why upgrade anything? E-load tires offer better side wall strength under heavier loads than p-tires. And sidewall puncture is sometimes not repairable on the trail. That’s the risk I’m trying to mitigate in the terrain that I encounter here in SoCal. E-tires, a spare, and a tire repair kit.
I’ve seen people in a Prius with p-tires in Death Valley. Im not saying that’s the best way to explore Death Valley, but they do get great gas mileage and they are out there exploring some of the easier trails in the valley.
I would say that has not been my experience with my GX. I've replaced the entire suspension (front and rear UCAs, LCAs, bump stops, shocks, springs). I've had broken bolts at the front skidplate mounts (super common and easy to fix) and on my LCA alignment cams (also super common on all Toyota trucks/SUVs an easy fix with a sawzall). You can see from the pictures of my GX that is looked more rusted that the one where pictures were posted - but it has simply not been that bad to work on. I've also done the headers, brakes, starter, etc - basically I've completely gone through a rusty GX, 100% DIY.
The real difference is a true rustbucket GX where the frame is compromised, and one that has surface rust that can be dealt with. I realize my experience may be counter to others, but I find value in sharing it on this forum as it can help others find diamonds in the rough, save money, learn/use some DIY skills, and keep a GX out of the graveyard.
Haha. I lived in SW Pennsylvania my whole life until 3 months ago. I'm no stranger to rust. My 08 looked pretty similar to the one posted when I bought it six years ago. I used fluid film at least once a winter every year, but the rust took over. Here are some pics from a couple years ago when I removed the rear bumper to fix a cracked plastic quarter support. I dropped the spare, cleaned up the rust. Covered everything with coroseal, painted, fluid film. Rust was back through within 6 months. The frame was never compromised, it was all surface rust.Here we go again with folks who live in dry climates recommending passing on a GX with minor rust
I get that in the north we just have to deal with it, but if he's moving to the west coast soon, I would not take anything with ANY rust on it.
