Here we go again with folks who live in dry climates recommending passing on a GX with minor rust

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Minor surface rust on a GX can easily be stopped by undercoating using Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown, etc., and touching it up annually. The rust on the second GX looks no worse than my GX, and I've stopped it with the undercoating, which is an easy DIY at a cost of $200 including the spray application gun. See my
build thread for a before-and-after on mine. Undercoating is a lot cheaper than plane tickets, fuel, hotel rooms, etc that are needed to get one from far away.
The worst parts on these are:
1. The front radiator core support. Probe this area with a screwdriver to verify that it is just surface rust and you haven't lost any actual metal thickness.
2. The passenger side frame rail behind the passenger side tire. The frame will rust on the inside in this area as the AC condensation line drips here and there are overlapping sections of meal on the inside of the frame (water gets drawn in the gap). You'll need to shine a light inside the frame here, through the small rectangular hole (visible in the wheelwell) and make sure the frame is OK. If rust is bad here, and you have holes, pass on the GX.
3. The rear frame rails behind the rear axle and the rear crash bar. Crud can accumulate here. Same as Item 1, inspect the area with a screwdriver and make sure there aren't any holes. Same thing, if rust is bad here and you have holes, I'd pass.
Despite what others say, working on a vehicle with some rust is not that bad (unless it is a total rust bucket - which the posted one does not appear to be). I've only had to deal with maybe 4-6 broken bolts on the undercarriage. I've also replaced the entire suspension on my GX when I lifted it, so there are not a lot of bolts/nuts that I haven't loosened. Undercoating will also act as a penetrating oil and free things up.
Even if you do fly to a drier climate to get a rust-free GX,
undercoat it as soon as you get back! A rust-free one will start rusting after a single winter.