A 200 is meant to have 37’s (3 Viewers)

[lx4dp]

I can’t speak to anything KDSS related since I’ve never even laid eyes on one. Having just switched from a 7.5” +25 with 37x12.50 ko2s to a 8.5” +10 36x11.50 toyo it does have more poke and may end up rubbing if I try to wheel it or when I inevitably tow 8500lbs. I thought my old setup would rub when I first put them on 3 years ago, but it was almost flawless.

I’ll say I think you could pull off a 37x11.50 the easiest. Having seen a 38x13.50 on a Tundra those things look absolutely MASSIVE! If you could pull off a 38 tall I’d be very impressed.

I know everyone hates on “limiting up travel” but I am a huge advocate of upgrading bump stops as part of my suspension upgrades. Especially when more lift is installed. Early engagement of bump stops can help control harsh landings while on the fast stuff while not limiting the overall uptravel when flexing off road. On the rear axle this is achieved by modifying the bump stops in the coil springs. When one side is articulating down and drooping the other is stuffing so there is no contact or limitation. When jumping railroad tracks or the like the factory in coil bumps will contact early and provide a progressive bump unlike the harsh frame mounted oem bumps.

The Timbren AOR bumps claim to not limit travel which I kind of scoffed at at first. Depends on how heavy your rig is and how you use it. I run Timbren AOR front and rear and have custom poly front front bumps and hockey pucks mounted to the rear bottom coil perches so they engage just after the Timbrens. I think a +10 puts you as far away from the body as possible without getting a ton of extra wag from too low of offset. Again I have no idea how much clearance you have now or the additional you would need but if there’s a will; there’s a way. I chose to avoid the $2,000 alignment that would have made clearance problems worse and opted for the more expensive odd size tires that I thought I could fit instead.

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Sexy pic brother. I see your ride and love that angle.