Please forgive me, I know there are tons of posts / youtube videos regarding the topic of preload bearing preload. My issues are despite correct preload my bearings are noisy after repacking them. Now ordinarily I would just replace the bearings and call it a day however the problem started when I removed the hub to replace the ABS sensor. I repacked the bearings and set the preload to 8 lbs with the fish scale (this required about 45 ft lbs) but on test drive I could hear the bearings on the passenger side. So I thought maybe it is too lose so I increased the preload to 13 lbs with the fish scale (this required 70 ft lbs - seems like a lot)... am I making it too tight? This vehicle is new to me with 186K. Please advise! Thanks!
98 Wheel Bearing Noise
- Thread starter aharlan001
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70 ft.lbs seems to be at the upper end of what @2001LC recommends. But it should still be OK if everything else is fine. Probably time for new bearings next time. Does the hub seem to turn fine when spun by hand?
Did you verify that the bearings were not worn before re-packing? Also, any chance that you are hearing the spindle bearings? Were they greased as well? Did you verify the play on the snap ring? At 186K I would expect that you need a thicker snap ring.
Did you verify that the bearings were not worn before re-packing? Also, any chance that you are hearing the spindle bearings? Were they greased as well? Did you verify the play on the snap ring? At 186K I would expect that you need a thicker snap ring.
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Where does one source a new snap ring for the axle? Mine are a little loose and I'm not entirely sure where to buy a replacement one that's a little thicker.
Toyota. Different thicknesses are available in 0.2mm increments. Cruiser Outfitters sells a set of all common sizes.
- Thread starter
- #6
I did not grease the spindle bearings just the shaft of the spindle before putting the hub back on... the spindle bearings were silent before I did this "repair" ... snap ring seemed tight but I'm new to this ... Not sure how to verify that the bearings are worn or not
- Thread starter
- #9
I get the sound when moving forward and turning the wheel to the left, always been the wheel bearing on other vehicles. I will grease the spindle bearings and see what happens.
We do offer a pack of the 6 sizes
As well as the full bearing service kits:
More on both: YWST: Wheel Bearing Overhaul Kits for the 100 Series (LX470)
2001LC
SILVER Star
Number one reason I see for unusual sounds after wheel bearing service is the dust seal of front driveshaft gets bent. More on this later.70ft-lbf is a lot, but our bearings like it tight. Shoot a IR gun on hub flange after high speed drive, and again after short rest (it goes up a bit at rest). I've not read temps in awhile, but IIRC you should see around 95 to 115 F, w OAT between 45 to 90 F. A reading of 180 F or great may indicate issue with bearings. Brake rotor disk will hit 200 F., if brake road hard temp may get much higher. Some of rotor heat will radiate so don't ride brakes in this test.
My concern with high torque on adjusting nut is stripping the threads of the nut or spindle. I've found the better the bearing condition "after broken in" the higher the torque on adjusting nut to reach the preload of 9.5 - 15lb of pull. With new bearings I hit torque of 45ft-lbf often, good used I hit ~65ft-lbf. Really good broken-in, cleaned really well, top shelve grease and a hot day with OAT of 90 F plus I hit ~72ft-lbf once.
Note: Also It's important that pull on spring scale be steady and at perfect 90 degree angle parallel with vehicle or reading is off.
Wheel bearings and races must be cleaned to properly inspect. Here's a picture of a bad wheel bearing that needs replacing at 350K miles. It's very rare to see bad bearings and races. Our bearings are incredible tough.
This same rig had the first axle needle bearing that concerned me so I replaced. Grease was blacken, spindle blued from heat and needle bearing once cleaned revealed blue/overheating in cage.
Number one reason I see for unusual sounds after wheel bearing service is the dust seal of front driveshaft gets bent. It then rubs on back side of steering knuckle. This dust shield is thin metal that gets bent just by weight of front driveshaft (FDS) lying loose on LCA. I place a 1" by 1" piece of wood across the LCA for FDS to rest on keeping dust seal from touching it.You can raise front tires off ground and inspect by looking at dust seal as you turn the tire/wheel.
Few more possibles that may emerge doing a wheel bearing service.
Snap ring reused or not on properly.
If grease cap get caved in to much while pounding on, it also can produce sound as end of axle rubs on it.
Brake caliper not torque down properly.
Brake pads, shims or their slide disrupted during job.
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- Thread starter
- #12
Wow, great reply. I didn't take the steering knuckle off because I was only trying to get to the ABS sensor... I repacked the wheel bearings because it seemed like the thing to do. Thanks for the pics of the bearings, my bearings visually looked great. I don't think I would have bent the driveshaft gasket since I didn't have the knuckle off ?right? ... anyway I think the problem is the grease cap, I really pounded that baby down because I was trying to flatten it to clear the new tundra wheel and hub cap I put on at the same time ... didn't think that could make a difference ... will check this theory next chance I get. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #13
Also could be the snap ring as I did reuse that, I will order some new snap rings if the grease cap theory does not pan out.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Correct if knuckle not pulled, that dust seal should be fine. It's so rare that I don't pull knuckle, I forget most don't.
- Thread starter
- #15
Seems like lots of ppl are flattening their grease caps flat for wheel swaps with no issues... Another question, how important is the gasket on the dust cover behind the rotor/bearing? Mine is toast.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Yep, one needs to really beat in the grease cap before it rubs on axle.
Great question on the large dust seal. Factory calls it non reusable. My feeling has been, if rubber of seal in good condition it's okay to reuse. For those running their rig in sand or water crossing it's probably better to replace ever ~120K or 10 year max.
Great question on the large dust seal. Factory calls it non reusable. My feeling has been, if rubber of seal in good condition it's okay to reuse. For those running their rig in sand or water crossing it's probably better to replace ever ~120K or 10 year max.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Example
350K miles, 18 yrs, wheel bearing bad, loose and wobbled.
350K miles, 18 yrs, wheel bearing bad, loose and wobbled.
So pop off the dust cap and drive it around the block. See if the noise is still there. Worst that can happen is you get a little grease on stuff. But since you said it was making the noise when turning, so would surprise me if it was the cap.
- Thread starter
- #19
True, worth a try ...
- Thread starter
- #20
Maybe solved, so I took apart the driver side this morning to replace the other abs sensor and repack the bearings to find that the snap ring was OFF! I think when I flattened the grease cap I drove the axle into the hub forcing the snap ring off? Anyway I'll post again when I get this thing back on the road to confirm. It will be at least a week. In the meantime my abs pump is going out and I don't want to have this thing on the road when it fails.
