97 40th Turbo Build

[Dusty]

one more thing concerning wastegate gaskets. I recently replaced a wastegate gasket with a cheap gasket and got oly about 20 miles out of it before it blew. be sure you buy the "fire ring" gaskets that have a metel crush ring. they are 10-15 bucks each but worth it. when I orriginally installed the turbo I used one of these and used the cheap paper/metal gaskets for the exhaust side of the wastegate. after the third of these 2 dollar jobs I have learned my lesson. use the good fire ring gaskets

 

[MSGGrunt]

Thanks for the info Dusty. I have saved a copy of Safari's instructions so I will take a look and see where they show to drill. I guess I will be pricing a 90 degree drill today at home depot.

The issue with the AC line is finding a shop that does this. East Coast just doesn't, IMHO, have access to all the support that the West Coast has. I will search locally.

I "think" I got the better gaskets. The Tial wastegate came with two gray, fiber type gaskets with a metal ring around the center hole. I bought two ALL metal gaskets with the all metal having a raised section around the hole. The same as many of the OEM Toyota gaskets. Are these all metal gaskets the better quality ones you are speaking of?

 

[landtank]

safari shows where to tap the pan in their turbo install instructions. the link is in my turbo build.

That link to Yomama.net hasn't worked in some time. Are there any other sources for that info?

 

[MSGGrunt]

Rick, I printed the Safari instructions off when the link was working. I will scan them when I go back to work on Wednesday and post them on here or Email them to you.

 

[Dusty]

the fire ring gasket is the way to go.

if you cant find someone to make a new ac hose you can buy ac fittings on summitracing.com. it is cheaper to have a hose made than to buy the summit fittings and stainless lines.

i believe clownmidget also has the safari instructions

 

[landtank]

Dusty, did you have the Tial flange machined after welding for flatness?

I'm having a manifold made up and that's one of the things we talked about. All three flanges will be getting a fly cut to ensure flatness. This will be done after heating the assembly to 1200* to help take some of the stress out of it as well.

 

[landtank]

Rick, I printed the Safari instructions off when the link was working. I will scan them when I go back to work on Wednesday and post them on here or Email them to you.

Thanks, that will help.

 

[MSGGrunt]

Well, I finally finished mounting the intercooler today. I made my own brackets that I screwed into the lower radiator support with 5/16" stainless steel self drilling/taping screws. I used rubber bushings for vibration damping. I cut a piece of pipe I bought at my local hardware store to sleeve the bolt and support the intercooler. I have about 3/4" of an inch clearance between the cooler and the A/C Condensor and am still able to mount the grill without having to push it out any.

 

[MSGGrunt]

I will be running one of the intercooler hoses through a hole in the ARB bull bar the other will tuck in closer to the radiator, running just under the A/C hard line that is on the passengers side of the vehicle. Again, I will try to eliminate as many of the silicone joints as possible to reduce the chances of a leak. I went with an AEM air filter as these are washable and do not used oil. I initially purchased one on-line, but at 9" in length was just to long to fit where you see the one in the photo. I purchased another one that is only 6" long and it fits perfectly. If anyone is looking for a brand new AEM filter that is 9" long PM me and I'll make you a great deal.

 

[MSGGrunt]

Front grill installed with intercooler.

 

[MSGGrunt]

Well, I made a bit more progress on the build over the weekend. I got the new OEM oil pressure sender and oil feed to the turbo plumbed. I used an oil feed kit from Treadstone Performance. I plumbed the oil return line, 10 AN stainless steel braid, from the turbo to the oil pan. I still have to tap into the upper oil pan. I also have the V-band and exhaust flange mounted. I am now waiting on more clamps and two 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent 90's to finish the intercooler plumbing. Also waiting on a 3" 90 for the exhaust downpipe.

 

[MSGGrunt]

Rick, I am still trying to find my paper copy of the Safari instructions.... You asked about gauges....

I will be doing the Integra dual gauge pod install and will put my EGT and transmission temp. gauge in that. Where I plan on towing with this truck I want these two gauges at eye level. I am still thinking about where to mount my A/F ratio, Boost, and coolant temperature gauge.

I have to install the one-way valve in the line to the charcoal canister. Which line does this go into? The line on the left or the one on the right?

 

[MSGGrunt]

In regards to the PCV plumbing. Am I correct in that the line on the right that leads from the PCV valve to the intake manifold has to be run from the PCV valve to an access that will be welded into the intake tract after the MAF sensor and before the turbine air intake and the port on the intake manifold plugged?

 

[landtank]

I don't know about the check valve on the canister but it's the line on the left (PS, vent) that needs to be moved to a pre turbo position.

It's also common to put a check valve in the PCV line as well. But that's usually at higher boost levels.

One thing I wanted to look into is the Supra PVC valve. I was curious if they might handle boost better than our stock ones.

 

[landtank]

I also picked up a used upper oil pan. Can you describe where Safari put that return? I wanted to check the inside of the pan before drilling that hole.

 

[MSGGrunt]

Sorry Rick, for the life of me I can't figure out where I put those instructions. I'll continue to look. Someone else on here must have a copy of them. All I can recall is that it was on the passenger's side. Not much help I know. I'm also looking forward to your turbo manifold build.

 

[landtank]

I'm also looking forward to your turbo manifold build.

That's in the works and is probably a month out as I've swamped the guy with other orders. I did pick up a used 2-231 Spearco intercooler this weekend. You might be interested in looking up that model number .

 

[MSGGrunt]

A picture of where the oil drain needs to enter the upper oil pan.

 

[clownmidget]

You can pick up the right check valve from Bell Engineering here, bottom of page...
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR.html

You can just rent a right angle drill from Home Depot or just buy a right angle head for your own drill, they are not the sturdiest but very handy and can handle this job. The bit is much more important IMO, get a good step drill/unibit like Dusty recommended. I used the LocTite brand high temp liquid teflon thread sealant on my oil return and it has not leaked at all.

Looks great

 

[MSGGrunt]

The end is in sight. I had a new A/C line made, $75.00 OUCH.

2 TU0000173 - 1/2" Stake-on A/C Ferrule #10 W/wide shoulder 1.020" ID, .720" hole ID #ACW10 $12.75 each = $25.50

3 feet TU0000157 - 1/2" ID PSI barrier hose for A/C $5.80 foot x 3 = $15.24

Labor = $30.00

As it is I had them add 20" to my already 15" section for a total length of 35" when I only needed to add 5" for a total of 20". That is what I get for not writing things down before going to the shop.