97 40th Turbo Build

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Dec 2, 2004
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About to get started with a turbo build on my 1997 FZJ80 40th with 123,000 miles, new head gasket, rebuilt head, new head bolts... I have assembled the following parts: The turbo is a Turbonetics 62-1 with an oil cooled center bearing not the more expensive water cooled ceramic bearing models. The wastegate is a Tial model sourced off Ebay set a 7 psi. The manifold is a cast manifold that I also sourced off Ebay. It looks similar to the one shown in pictures of the turbo kit that Man-a-Fre is/was working on though I am not sure if it is made by the same company. It looks very well made and save me a lot of time trying to fabricate my own manifold out of weld el's. I also bought high quality steel gaskets.

Turbo: $800.00.
Wastegate: $150.00
Cast Turbo Manifold: $250.00
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The silicaone hoses and T-bolt clamps were purchased from www.siliconeintakes.com. I found this to be a one stop shopping source and they had the black for a more stealth look that I am going for.

2 x 2.5" hump hose $25.98
1 x reducer, 3.0" to 2.5" $12.99
1 x reducer, 4.0" to 3.25" $12.99
1 x 4.0" 45 degree elbow $24.99
2 x 4.0" 90 degree elbows $49.98
4 x 2.5" 90 degree elbows $67.96
4 x 2.5" 45 degree elbows $67.96
14 x 2.5" T-bolt clamps $36.40
1 x 3.0" T-bolt clamp $2.60
2 x 4.0" T-bolt clamps $5.20
1 x 3.25" T-bolt clamp $2.60
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I will be using aluminized 2.5" and 4.0" OD exhaust tubing. Most of the straight pieces have been sourced locally. the 90 degree mandrel bent elbow was bought from JC Whitney as will any other pieces that I require. I cut my own couplers out of the 2.5 inch tubing. I am not sure if I will need to have someone put a bead on each end to hold the hoses on. Time will tell if this is needed.
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The intercooler was also bought off Ebay... I am not sure what I paid for it. I'm sure it was under $200.00. This will be placed in the center of the radiator with the intercooler tubing/hoses running into the engine bay just behind the stock passengers signal light. I will post pick when I get there. The factory transmission cooler and power steering cooler will be replaced with the new coolers in the pictures that I also bought off Ebay. I like the compactness and strength of design of this style cooler. I am more that confident that it will sufice for the PS cooler.... Time will tell if it is enough for the transmission. I plan on mounting them both where the factory PS cooler is presently.
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landtank

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I thought of you today as I rolled through Charlton on RT 20. I'd like to see it when the manifold and turbo are installed. Just to give me an idea of how much real estate it takes up.
 
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AutoMeter gauges to moniter EGT temps, Boost, and A/F ratio. Also sourced off Ebay. I plan on mounting these in either a double or triple gauge pod on the A pillar.
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I was playing around with the routing of the intercooler piping... Please feel free to comment.
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Routing looks comparable to MAF kit.

Sure is a long intake track with alot of connections/clamps. I would preassemble the track as much track as possible and pressurize it with a compressor before installing. That will be quicker and easier to hunt down leaks. One of the things I never liked about the pics of the MAF kit was the length of the intake track or how it passed right over the turbine before the throttle body. I wonder if the length will
contribute to the feeling of turbo lag.

Have you though about any bracing under the manifold? How about a heat shield for the manifold and/or turbo? The manifold is about 30# and the turbo about 20# to 25#.

I would like to see the amount of room from the turbo outlet to throttle body. I bought a TO4E 46 trim .50 A/R compressor .84 O trim turbine for $220 off ebay. Good price but the turbo might fall short of my 350 hp goal. Intercooling or water methanol injection will happen.

Looking forward to the progress!
 
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The main reason of routing the intercooler piping the ay I have it to try and retain the OEM air filter. Something I may change my mind on latter down the road. I will definitly be bracing the turbo. The turbo manifold has for tapped holes that appear to be for the factory heat shields. If so, I will be using these. I will also be wrapping the turbo and downpipe to try and limit underhood temps. I am also considering metal tubing off the throttle body instead of the 2 45 degree elbows I have mocked-up in the previous pictures.
 
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Items that I still need to purchase:

Turbo wrap
Oil feed and return line
Wastegate plumbing
Downpipe with V flange
New Toyota OEM brass radiator
New Toyota OEM fan clutch
All new Toyota OEM hoses
 
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Dec 4, 2005
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Looks like fun! A couple things I personally would change about the intake plumbing. If possible, use as few 90 bends as you can. They can really reduce flow. Also, you have mandrel bends, so you can do almost all of what you have done there with a solid tube welded together. What I did on my VW is to take the mandrel bends, cut them where I wanted and duct tape them together with alignment marks. I then brought the whole "assembly" to my welder and he tigged them up for me. Obviously it cant all be one piece, but the fewer connections the better IMO. I'll post up a picture of my VW for you in a minute.
 
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From reading other posts I am under the impression that the factory fuel system will work fine with the low levels of boost that I am planning on running. My injectors have been cleaned and a new fuel filter will be installed.

One concern I ran into in the several hours that I was working on it this afternoon was that the hood hits the MAF sensor the way I have the air cleaner in the pic and as copied from the Man-a-Fre set-up. My thoughts on this are to maybe rotate the sensor 180 degrees to place the flat connector on the bottom, remove the underhood bracing just in the area where it hits, or clearance the entire area by cutting a hole in the hood and then install a small hood scoop.

Maybe Steve from Man-a-Fre will advise on what they did and if the longer intercooler plumbing was an issue. I really want to stay away from an open element air cleaner and retain the factory air cleaner if at all possible.
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Rick, I too wanted to do a York OBA with this, but then it would really get crowded under the hood. I will probably go with a CO2 system or some other less capable than a York OBA, but still better than nothing. If I am able to run the intercooler plumbing like I have initially mocked-up I can retain the factory radiator overflow tank, but will have to relocate the washer fluid resevoir.

I will probably do as Erratic advised and reduse the number of silicone joints to reduce the number of places where I could have leaks. I just had the joints and it was an easy way to mock things up.
 
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I like your plan to keep the stock air cleaner. Here is my VW. I know I went against my own advice with all the 90s but I kinda had to.
47b7dd02b3127cce8351f02883d300000016108Bas2Lho2Z4


Excuse the wiring mess. I'm running a stand alone fuel/spark system and it's still under construction. I had to fabricate a complete engine harness from bare wires.
 
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Any room to rotate the turbo 180 degree's on the exhaust flange? If possible, the clearance of the MAF sensor would not be an issue. The rest of the track would have to change though.

Welding the intake track into a couple of length would be ideal.
 

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