‘94 JDM Land Cruiser has bad transmission, just purchased, I do not know what to do. Please help

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Stupid question, what am I looking for when I put it in 4lo? To see if it exhibits the same symptoms I am experiencing?
If you put it in 4 low, it will lock the center diff/transfer case. If it is a stripped drive flange, you will he able to move now, because it is sending 1/2 the power to the front axle and half to the rear. It is not allowing all the power to go to the wheel that has a stripped flange
 
I had a rare transmission failure in my 96’, with mine, reverse was first to go, at first it would engage after a few seconds and later a I could shift through other gears or in and out of low range to get it to engage after a minute or more, but there was never a situation like you are describing (other than the hotter than normal console). I found very little information on Mud to compare because a transmission failure wit the A442 is so rare, I did eventually find or they found me, an 80 that had a similar symptom as mine.

I am not saying it isn’t the transmission, just mine and the single case I read had similar failure signs, very slow to engage at first until it doesn’t at all.

Several reputable members are pointing to other diagnostics that you should investigate prior to a transmission rebuild/replacement. I agree finding a Cruiser focused shop would be a big benefit, even if it required towing/hauling somewhere else, there isn’t much to be gained by driving it any farther.

Good luck!


Also, If it does turn out to be transmission, I couldn’t find anyone to rebuild mine and ended up installing a used one, actually 2, that is an another story, but because the transmission is historically good, you should be able to find a used one easily.
 
Several reputable members

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have you checked the trans fluid level? reference the FSM for the procedure (IIRC warm fluid, trans in D). if it is very low, there isn't going to be enough pressure to work properly. when i sprung a huge leak in a trans cooler line, i had similar symptoms of having to really push on the gas to keep the MPH up...until i lost all the fluid.

if the level checks out, does the fluid smell burnt?

as others have said, a CDL button should exist in a JDM truck, so you can keep the t-case in Hi.
 
I had a rare transmission failure in my 96’, with mine, reverse was first to go, at first it would engage after a few seconds and later a I could shift through other gears or in and out of low range to get it to engage after a minute or more, but there was never a situation like you are describing (other than the hotter than normal console). I found very little information on Mud to compare because a transmission failure wit the A442 is so rare, I did eventually find or they found me, an 80 that had a similar symptom as mine.

I am not saying it isn’t the transmission, just mine and the single case I read had similar failure signs, very slow to engage at first until it doesn’t at all.

Several reputable members are pointing to other diagnostics that you should investigate prior to a transmission rebuild/replacement. I agree finding a Cruiser focused shop would be a big benefit, even if it required towing/hauling somewhere else, there isn’t much to be gained by driving it any farther.

Good luck!


Also, If it does turn out to be transmission, I couldn’t find anyone to rebuild mine and ended up installing a used one, actually 2, that is an another story, but because the transmission is historically good, you should be able to find a used one easily.
Thanks for the help. That isn’t comforting that you couldn’t find someone to rebuild the transmission, in the rare event that my issue is the transmission(not that I think it is now).
 
have you checked the trans fluid level? reference the FSM for the procedure (IIRC warm fluid, trans in D). if it is very low, there isn't going to be enough pressure to work properly. when i sprung a huge leak in a trans cooler line, i had similar symptoms of having to really push on the gas to keep the MPH up...until i lost all the fluid.

if the level checks out, does the fluid smell burnt?

as others have said, a CDL button should exist in a JDM truck, so you can keep the t-case in Hi.
The dealer shop checked and topped off all fluids/did an oil change. I did check the transmission fluid today to make sure and it was fine. Thanks for helping.
 
If you put it in 4 low, it will lock the center diff/transfer case. If it is a stripped drive flange, you will he able to move now, because it is sending 1/2 the power to the front axle and half to the rear. It is not allowing all the power to go to the wheel that has a stripped flange
Thank you
 
I live in the city at the moment so I have to wait until tomorrow to find a dirt road. I just don’t want to take a chance with checking differentials driving on blacktop. If anyone would still like to help I will post tomorrow what I experience. Thanks to all for helping.
 
You can test it on pavement. Straight forward and straight back. It’s if you’re turning tightly and gunning it on pavement that stuff will break. It should behave pretty much normally, once it’s in 4L.

Another thing you can do is leave it in 4H, and get under it and have some one you trust put in drive, and slowly let off the brake. Watch what happens to the driveshafts. If it’s the drive flange, it will spin the front driveshaft, and there won’t be any forward movement. It will likely make some rowdy noises.
 
I live in the city at the moment so I have to wait until tomorrow to find a dirt road. I just don’t want to take a chance with checking differentials driving on blacktop. If anyone would still like to help I will post tomorrow what I experience. Thanks to all for helping.
Sorry to ask an obvious question, but how did you check the fluid?

The procedure for checking is with the engine running, transmission fluid warm and having cycled through all the gears.
 
Thanks for the help. That isn’t comforting that you couldn’t find someone to rebuild the transmission, in the rare event that my issue is the transmission(not that I think it is now).
Yes, that was a little surprising, but the retired 35 year Toyota Master tech that did the installation reiterated how few ever go bad and we couldn’t find anyone in the area that felt comfortable rebuilding and few people share some lack of success stories with self rebuilds, seems even a full rebuild kit wasn’t available at the time. I even attempted to send it Valley Hybrids from TN to California to be rebuilt but couldn’t get that arranged.

The silver lining was there seemed to be good availability of used ones at a few hundred bucks the time. I think I paid $500-$700 back in 2019 with a year warranty and needed it, because the first one shifted great, but had a major seal leak (I think it was a flood victim) and they replaced it free of charge.

Sadly, I had just missed ordering one of the last new ones available, but somehow managed to find an NOS a year or so later I bought and put in my parts horde in case anything ever happens to another one that I plan to own till the end!

These trucks are reasonably straightforward and with the guidance of the forum and a good shop, you should be back to enjoying the rig soon!
 
If it's JDM then you should have this button
1688608379767.png

Press that button in and you should get this light.
1688608489431.png

Once you have that light try to drive it. Don't worry about driving it on a hard surface your not going to hurt it, it will be hard to turn.
If it drives fine then it is most likely a drive flange.

The A442F is a very stout transmission and rarely fails. if it did fail you can pick up a used one from one of the Guys parting out rigs

6M1 is the best color ;)
 
If it's JDM then you should have this button
View attachment 3366496
Press that button in and you should get this light.
View attachment 3366497
Once you have that light try to drive it. Don't worry about driving it on a hard surface your not going to hurt it, it will be hard to turn.
If it drives fine then it is most likely a drive flange.

The A442F is a very stout transmission and rarely fails. if it did fail you can pick up a used one from one of the Guys parting out rigs

6M1 is the best color ;)
Good call. Didn’t even think of the JDM aspect with the diff lock.
 
If you dont have a diff lock button, I believe you can unplug your hazard switch and use it for a center diff switch. Find the CDL female end of the wire harness behind the the dash and plug it in. It should then act as a cdl switch but you won't have hazard lights anymore. I don't know if that messes any other electrical circuits up but I don't think so.
 
Ok so OP chances are this is pretty minor. You need to logically run through a diagnostic/troubleshooting process. There are multiple things this can be, listed in increasing severity:
-Stripped drive flange
-Broken cv(s)
-Pinion splines (doubt it)
-Pinnion teeth (also doubt it)
-Something let go in the transfer
-Something let go in the gearbox

Here is what i would do:

1. Press the center diff lock button. What this does is stops the differential in the transfer case from differentialing. If something is broken between the front output flange and the front wheels, then all power should go to the rears and you can drive more or less normally. You can drive like this for short distances for testing purposes. Badasses like me may or may not have driven significant distances like this, that's dumb as a broken CV could theoretically lock your steering and then you die a firey death.

2. Does the noise go away when you drive like this? If so then you're looking at something in the forward of the front output of the transfer case. This is a good situation as most fixes here are simple or at least less dramatic.

Do this and then report back.
 
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