‘94 JDM Land Cruiser has bad transmission, just purchased, I do not know what to do. Please help

[mudgudgeon]

The 1HD-T

Pretty sure he said it's a gas engine, so 1fz-fe?

 

[Feistl]

Don’t mean to rub salt into the wound, but if you’re ever driving a vehicle and something goes wrong…. STOP.

Seems like a minor issue of stripping a drive flange or similar, but by pushing the vehicle hard there is a chance you’ve ruined the viscous coupler.

The amount of times I’ve seen $100 issues turn into $1000s (or occasionally $10,000s) because the owner just wanted to get home amazes me. If something is wrong, stop before you make it much much worse.

(I’m not having a go, just this is a warning for anyone reading)

 

[jonheld]

Thank you, that is nice to know. Is a drive flange a major fix or cost? It doesn’t matter because I will do what I have to.

Front drive flange 43421-60040 runs about $68. However, that is for the later model stub axle with longer splines.
The earlier model flange is 43421-60022 and runs about $59.
The expensive parts are the stub axle/birfield joints, if the splines are damaged.

 

[ZackR]

Could be a lot of things, even a bad connection between the transmission ECU and the engine ECU.

Time to troubleshoot step by step via the factory service manual.

 

[BILT4ME]

"I expect to pay thousands."

Well, that's what you'll get.

I have had transmission shops mis-diagnose and tell me I had a bad transmission when I KNEW that was not the case.

I have had dealerships tell me something completely unrelated is wrong with my vehicle. That's why I don't take my truck to these places.

You bought an imported truck.
You know NOTHING about it.
You cannot do your own work.
You get what you pay for.
Caveat emptor.

Good luck to your wallet.

 

[Angeltech]

Many of us here have a justified lack of faith in Toyota dealerships, and mechanics in general.

You have a 30 year old car that very few Toyota based techs have any training on.

Most independent mechanics will make more from basic oil changes than dealing with a 30 year old dinosaur for a fastidious enthusiast.

I definitely agree, I am trying to find someone in Ohio that might specialize in Land Cruisers.

 

[Angeltech]

So worth it in the end tho.
And still less than one would spend on a modern financial arrangement and product.

I agree. I already have $25k invested and I bought a Land Cruiser for keeps. As the old saying goes- In for penny, in for a pound.

 

[Angeltech]

A drive flange, a broken birfield, any "open" in the drivetrain will exhibit these symptoms. You put your foot to the floor to get the truck to move because you're relying on the friction of the viscous coupler in the transfer case.

Gotcha, thank you.

 

[Angeltech]

I had to drive home from Michigan which was about 4.5 hrs. I had to stop and get gas about an hour from home and that is when I noticed problems. I put it in reverse and it had a clunky joint. Also, when I got back on the freeway I had to put the gas to the floor just to sluggishly accelerate. When I got home I felt 5he center console and it was extremely hot.

I meant clunky jolt, sorry.

 

[jayp2]

I definitely agree, I am trying to find someone in Ohio that might specialize in Land Cruisers.

The only reason you ever go to a toyota dealership regarding a vehicle never sold in the US is to buy parts.....they wont have everything but you will be surprised at how many parts are shared across different models.....quite literally for years and sometimes decade(s).....it speaks to good engineering and parts management by toyota.

And whether or not you start doing your own work you should familiarize yourself with where to GET parts for your vehicle in order to be able to assist a capable general mechanic.

Megazip is a good starting point....plug in the vehicle model code from the plate affixed to your LC....might be in the engine bay on the firewall

Start looking at vehicle specific tech forums and vendor listings.

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[Angeltech]

What happens when you put it in 4-Low?

I will do that this evening and post as soon as I can afterwards. Today I am doing the family holiday stuff, unfortunately. Thank you

 

[mjosoba]

Is it gas or diesel? If it’s diesel it may be the hydraulic A442. Does your shifter have L,2,3,D or L,2,D? Easy way to tell if it’s electric or hydraulic.

Someone on FB had this exact same thing come up. Was that you? I said the same thing several others have said. 4 low and see what happens. Sounded like a stripped flange.

 

[Angeltech]

Look at the tag on the door and itll tell you what transmission is in it. Take a pic of that sticker and post it. Between all of us here, Im betting we can get it figured out.....

Here is a pic of the engine bay data plate. Not the best pic but it is legible.

 

[cruzinfj1]

A442F is the Transmission

K294 means triple locked.

I dont know anything about the color or trim numbers.

 

[Angeltech]

Is it gas or diesel? If it’s diesel it may be the hydraulic A442. Does your shifter have L,2,3,D or L,2,D? Easy way to tell if it’s electric or hydraulic.

Someone on FB had this exact same thing come up. Was that you? I said the same thing several others have said. 4 low and see what happens. Sounded like a stripped flange.

It is definitely gas. It’s funny because I was about to import a JDM diesel triple locked when I saw this one come up for sale. It saved me the hassle of importing a L.C. I will check the shifter later this evening and post back asap. No it wasn’t me that posted on FB. I will try the 4 low as others have mentioned, thank you.

 

[Angeltech]

A442F is the Transmission

K294 means triple locked.

I dont know anything about the color or trim numbers.

 

[Angeltech]

Yep

 

[Kernal]

Important to know if it wasn't mentioned already; when in 4LO (transfer case shifted) you (generally) should be on a loose surface (dirt, gravel, grass) as the center differential will be locked. If you drive it on dry pavement you'll only be able to drive straight ahead for a short distance, then reverse straight back. The gearing is very low so you can't drive much more than around 35mph in that configuration. Steering will become very hard if not impossible to turn the wheel if on pavement.

If you can't pull the transfer case out of LO after your test (fully stopped) you can reverse or go forward just a few feet at time and try pulling on the shifter until the driveline relaxes. When the transfer case does shift out of LO you may hear/feel a loud clunk (don't worry, you didn't break anything). Just a heads up.

 

[Angeltech]

Important to know if it wasn't mentioned already; when in 4LO (transfer case shifted) you (generally) should be on a loose surface (dirt, gravel, grass) as the center differential will be locked. If you drive it on dry pavement you'll only be able to drive straight ahead for a short distance, then reverse straight back. The gearing is very low so you can't drive much more than around 35mph in that configuration. Steering will become very hard if not impossible to turn the wheel if on pavement.

If you can't pull the transfer case out of LO after your test (fully stopped) you can reverse or go forward just a few feet at time and try pulling on the shifter until the driveline relaxes. When the transfer case does shift out of LO you may hear/feel a loud clunk (don't worry, you didn't break anything). Just a heads up.

Thank you for the help.

 

[Angeltech]

Stupid question, what am I looking for when I put it in 4lo? To see if it exhibits the same symptoms I am experiencing?