94 80 series front axle not engaging

[fraudulentearth]

I have recently purchased a 94 Toyota Land Cruiser and have noticed that the 4wd does not work. Before I actually tear into it I noticed that the four-wheel-drive actuator in the back of the transfer case engages in disengages but the front axle will not engage. This is not a factory locker 80 which you probably already know. Just wondering if anyone had the same problem or may know a way to point me in.

 

[IanB]

Factory setup on a '94 requires you put the transfer case in 4low to engage the center diff and get 4x4 rather than AWD. CDL unlocked = AWD, CDL locked = 4x4.

You can buy a CDL button, the wiring is already in the dash for it, and this would allow you to lock the CDL in high range as well.

You say "...but the front axle will not engage." On these trucks, they are full time AWD, power is routed to all tires until one slips.

 

[fraudulentearth]

The front tires do not spin. If I'm in snow both back tires spin but the fronts do not. When I put the transmission in I do recall spinning the yoke on the pinion and don't remember the tires movin accordingly.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You may have a stripped drive plate (s). It's a common problem in 94s. If only 1 side is damaged, the other side won't get any torque and the tires won't move. Fortunately an easy quick fix.

 

[890man]

Crap, I have been reading so many of these scenarios recently. I need some spare flanges.....knock on wood.

 

[LINUS]

Confirm/deny on the "....not a factory locker..." sentence - typo?

That's a wild card there.

Also, you do have to be in low for lockers to engage.

Do you have factory lockers, are in low range on the trans case, and the rear is locking but the front isn't- or is the front a factory locker that is working but the indicator is stuck?

 

[ajax1]

Probably no front axles in the truck pop off the cap on drive flange see if the axle is there on both sides. Take ya two seconds to pop that cap

 

[Sarmajor]

All of the above means that this is possibly another truck only moving at all due to the VC.
Or perhaps the previous owner fitted a part time 4wd kit.
Pictures of the front wheel drive flanges will help us to diagnose the problem. Pop the Center cap off them before taking the pictures.
Also a picture of under the truck showing driveshafts.
To confirm they're both fitted.
Given that a cruiser is full time 4wd from the factory (in most case study) and the Center differential locking motor has no external parts what exactly are you noticing on the transfer case to indicate "4wd" is being selected.

 

[890man]

4WD not working

Lots of recent info here. I hope this isn't your problem.

 

[fraudulentearth]

Thanks for all the knowledgeable input. This 80 has No switch for An elocker. When I get a chance I will take pictures and run tests. To clarify better this has a transmission and tcase out of a 95. Would that have anything to do with the 4wd not spinning the front tires?

 

[IanB]

'94 truck with '95 trans and TC should not play a role here. If you put the TC in low range, does the CDL light on the dash turn on? If yes, you could try pulling the rear driveshaft with the CDL locked and seeing if the truck will drive with power only able to be routed to the front wheels to confirm if you've actually got a mechanical issue, or just a perception issue.

 

[LINUS]

So back to your initial description of problem "my front axle won't engage" - how have you come to this conclusion?

Have you confirmed a driveshaft is there (meaning nobody pulled the fuse on the CDL in low, then shifted back to high range).

There is a open diff in the front axle, so you do get lifting a tire to see if it spins is normal operating condition?

4WD is a misnomer of term - you have 2 driven axles, both with open diffs. If you lift a tire on each axle it's not going anywhere. Real 4WD is the CDL locked & each diff locked, then theoretically having 1 tire making traction will produce a result.

 

[rc51kid]

You may have a stripped drive plate (s). It's a common problem in 94s. If only 1 side is damaged, the other side won't get any torque and the tires won't move. Fortunately an easy quick fix.

Can you tell me a little more about this? I have had my birfields out before on my 94 but I cant picture what would strip.

And what about the 94 is weaker?

 

[LINUS]

Can you tell me a little more about this? I have had my birfields out before on my 94 but I cant picture what would strip.

And what about the 94 is weaker?

The splines on the inner area of the 6 holed plate you interlock with those splines on the outboard edge of the birfield shaft, then stick your cone washers in & add the nuts.

They are the 'failsafe' as the metal is softer than the birf shaft.

IIRC, the older style is shorter, but I've only been a 'helper' on 1 service toa early axle - mine have all been later ones.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Can you tell me a little more about this? I have had my birfields out before on my 94 but I cant picture what would strip.

And what about the 94 is weaker?

The splines in the drive plate strip. And it's more common in 93-94's because they got wider in later trucks. Still a good idea to replace at 100K intervals or so. The drive plates are not that expensive.

 

[rc51kid]

I am about to do my birfields again. I guess I will be calling Onur again.

Should the 94 be updated to the newer style or should I just replaced with new oem and throw my old ones in the truck as trail spares?

 

[LINUS]

I am about to do my birfields again. I guess I will be calling Onur again.

Should the 94 be updated to the newer style or should I just replaced with new oem and throw my old ones in the truck as trail spares?

Onur can surely correct me, but seems the deal with early / late birfs & early / late driveplates is a spot you need both to get the gain.

I'm of the opinion I'd wait 'till you need the birfs & revisit it then - not like running wide plates / narrow birfs is even possible due to those C-clips.

I really wouldn't buy new birfs just to get from 'here' to 'there'.

 

[rc51kid]

Onur can surely correct me, but seems the deal with early / late birfs & early / late driveplates is a spot you need both to get the gain.

I'm of the opinion I'd wait 'till you need the birfs & revisit it then - not like running wide plates / narrow birfs is even possible due to those C-clips.

I really wouldn't buy new birfs just to get from 'here' to 'there'.

Good point. They have held up well this long. if they are not to expensive i will put a new set of OEM 1994 plates on there and just keep the old ones as trail spares. They should not be a bad trail fix at all if i ever need to.

 

[LINUS]

I checked mine knowing the way these are supposed to go, and even on my LX450 w/ 37's, I didn't have slop.

Granted IDK how old/new the plates were & it had the 37's for ~15K prior owner & I added slightly over 40K to it on 37's - and between me & Paul it saw Moab, McGrew & more. I changed alot of parts but never had slop on the splines.

Maybe dumb luck.

 

[IanB]

I replaced my drive plates with part-time hubs at 120K kms, and noticed a significant decrease in driveline slop, I guess the driveplates had some wear but I would have never known.