94 80 series front axle not engaging

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So here is two videos I took. The connector was different from 94 harness to 95 tcase. When I connect them to the sensor yellow and black/blue wires nothing no cdl light comes up in the cluster. Axle splines do not spin.
 
Here are two more videos of the play that I have in the front axles there is play in and out and only up-and-down when the axle is slid out.

 
Here are two more videos of the play that I have in the front axles there is play in and out and only up-and-down when the axle is slid out.



Just FYI, if you find out its drive plates someone near me is selling a set for $50. seems like a prt time conversion leftover. Let me know if it helps and I can pass along the info
 
Good news, stuff looks good with you transmission and transfer. Bad news is something is jacked in your front end.

Not really the end of the world. When was the last time you did your birfield joint seals? Just buy the crap for the regular service and start taking it all apart. Replace whatever is broken and do birfield seals at the same time.
 
yeah-I'd say based on those videos, something very uncool is going on there-like are there inner axles in place? THe fact that you can rotate it, says either the birfield is hollowed out inside or the inner axles don't engage the side gears.

If the differential was broken enough to alone do that, it would make a terrible racket.

I suspect the seller of this vehicle withheld some important information from the new owner!

To sort it out, the whole thing will have to come apart.
 
I'm new to these types of axles but I'm no dummie I'll start tearing into it to see what's jacked up. I bought this 80 for $1000 so I knew some things would need attention. I suspect it was exposed to a lot of neglect. I got it from behind a pallet factory where it was sitting for some time. I'll update my search for the corporate to this problem. Thanks again do all your inputs.:cheers:
 
I am about to do my birfields again. I guess I will be calling Onur again.

Should the 94 be updated to the newer style or should I just replaced with new oem and throw my old ones in the truck as trail spares?

the drive plates and CVs changed in late 93. buying parts for 94 onward gives you the longer CV shaft and wider plates, and more spline to spline contact area.
 
Factory lockers? that's not correct. You just have to have CDL locked.
The CDL switching activates the power to the front and rear locker circuits

I should have specified USDM w/o a CDL switch. The majority of 1FZ's came like that here. Esp the later style dash years.
 
Factory lockers? that's not correct. You just have to have CDL locked.
The CDL switching activates the power to the front and rear locker circuits

The NA guys didn't get CDL buttons on the '93+, so the only way to get the F&R lockers to work is to put it in low range, which locks the CDL. Once you add the CDL button you can lock the CDL in high range, and the F&R lockers work in high range as well.

The '91-92 got the CDL button, but no F&R lockers were available.

It's a source of confusion it seems.
 
I agree with cruiserdrew, the diff centre is not all there, or someone has pulled inner axles for some reason.
 
The NA guys didn't get CDL buttons on the '93+, so the only way to get the F&R lockers to work is to put it in low range, which locks the CDL. Once you add the CDL button you can lock the CDL in high range, and the F&R lockers work in high range as well.

The '91-92 got the CDL button, but no F&R lockers were available.

It's a source of confusion it seems.

fair enough, funny little localised idiosyncrasies! off topic anyway I guess, but the diff lock ECU allows diffs to be locked in High range, but CDL has to be locked first.
 
I'm new to these types of axles but I'm no dummie I'll start tearing into it to see what's jacked up. I bought this 80 for $1000 so I knew some things would need attention. I suspect it was exposed to a lot of neglect. I got it from behind a pallet factory where it was sitting for some time. I'll update my search for the corporate to this problem. Thanks again do all your inputs.:cheers:

Good attitude. For $1000 if the motor is sound, not running hot or burning a lot of oil and your trany shifts good you are doing well. The front axle issue sucks but is not the end of the world at all. I think if you pull the front drive shaft and front drive plates you can drive it with most of the guts out of the front axle.

Cant remember, do you have factory e lockers or not?

PS you might need a CDL switch installed to do that but that should be a priority easy cheap mod anyway.
 
I'm new to these types of axles but I'm no dummie I'll start tearing into it to see what's jacked up. I bought this 80 for $1000 so I knew some things would need attention. I suspect it was exposed to a lot of neglect. I got it from behind a pallet factory where it was sitting for some time. I'll update my search for the corporate to this problem. Thanks again do all your inputs.:cheers:

Tearing apart our toys (and now Toys) - is the best way to learn, and the older these get the more the forum will see idiosyncrasies for the life each 80 has had.

So your attitude is the way these will be kept running versus when these were all sub-150K rigs & the biggest issue was ditching a Waag brush guard.

Download a FSM for tightening torques & get at it!

Also, a hazard flasher switch works for a CDL switch. If that's news to you.
 
... PS you might need a CDL switch installed to do that but that should be a priority easy cheap mod anyway.

No need, shift low range to lock the CDL, remove the diff fuse, shift high and drive. When you want it unlocked, simply replace the fuse.
 

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