'93 80 vs. '97 LX (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ChaseTruck said:
That IS a distribution block. Everything that goes thru the firewall, or anywhere else, is now fused. The exception is the ARB harness - for now... I'm looking for a slimline fuse block with 12 fuses instead of 6 and a positive bus. The one from Speedway Motors seems to be my best bet...Main theme is that I'm trying to keep the distance between the fuse and the battery short.

None of the 80-approved manufacturers, like Blue Sea, makes anything I can fit up front. And I don't want an aux fuse block on the firewall, just to run wires there, and then back up front.

What I really NEED is an integrated circuit. :)

But with the new battery in the LX (a group 27 Optima Yellow Top), I have a better idea now how much space is available once a taller battery is installed. It looks like everything is working now the way I want it, so the next step is to clean up / shorten the wiring and build a harness with connectors.
Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...rol-Unit-Power-Distribution-Box-/110856353912
 
Last edited:
'93 - change of plans... :D

P1010251.jpg
 
ChaseTruck said:
'93 - change of plans... :D
Click to expand...

maybe change of your plans . . . :flipoff2:

I had planned to buy a used bumper ever since we got the truck - it just took so long to find one here in the swamp :hillbilly:
 
ChaseTruck said:
Yup :). But I'll leave the 'eyebrows' on.
Now I need to redo the winch wiring...
Click to expand...

Good choice on leaving the eyebrows Slee does not recommend it, even if he thinks it looks mo better.

sleeoffroad said:
Even though I think that looks really good, The upper tubes form an integral part of the design and adds a lot to the strength of the winch. Removing them compromises their strength a lot.
Click to expand...
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Good choice on leaving the eyebrows Slee does not recommend it, even if he thinks it looks mo better.
Click to expand...

I liked the clean look w/o the eyebrows on yours, but methinks the eyebrows really stabilize the wings of the bumper.

Now that I've gone through version 1 of the wiring and know what I want, I think I can build some sort of a harness w/ plugs rather than individual wires. I've got a few Delphi weather pack connectors.
And two small LED lights coming in from Amazon - if they turn out to be too ugly, they'll find their way onto the K5. :hillbilly:
 
ChaseTruck said:
I liked the clean look w/o the eyebrows on yours, but methinks the eyebrows really stabilize the wings of the bumper.

Now that I've gone through version 1 of the wiring and know what I want, I think I can build some sort of a harness w/ plugs rather than individual wires. I've got a few Delphi weather pack connectors.
And two small LED lights coming in from Amazon - if they turn out to be too ugly, they'll find their way onto the K5. :hillbilly:
Click to expand...

I will throw out another LED option for your perfect search choice. Linked below, the featured lights can mount flush in the bumper and maybe reducing the ugly factor. I will prewarn you Im looking at the same.:)

http://www.assuredautomotiveproducts.com/RIGID-Flush-Mount-LED-Lighting_c71.htm
 
I was going to get a small LED bar, but got overruled...

I also find myself balking at the price of the Rigid products... so, in the spirit of my 'inside the box build', I'm going with lights advertised as 1800 lumen, 6500K color temp, 6 3W Epistar LEDs, knowing that it's probably going to be a knockoff...

Given the angles of flat surfaces on the shortbus, I'm having trouble seeing how the flush mount would work, and still have them point at where I want them.
 
Last edited:
'93 - two LED floods (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJKXW8M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) installed; pic with LED flood lights off and on (ISO3200, 1/30 f2.8).
I like how the foreground is lighted rather evenly (and I haven't really tried to aim the lamps); cold color temp doesn't really bother me.

Now waiting for a few parts to build a redesigned electrical section, with fuse block and winch control. A few swipes of Krylon satin black where the wire rope got too friendly with the bumper, and then the winch will go back on.

P1010257.JPG


Lights2.jpg
 
Last edited:
New attempt to clean up the wiring; looks reasonable:

Connector at the top is winch control, connector with the blue heat shrink is output to winch.
Relays from left to right:
Unused - Fan(unused) - Lights - Winch1(int.control) - Winch2(int.control) - Winch3(ext./wireless control)

Everything that goes thru the firewall is now fused (hence all those little 3 & 4A fuses); haven't gotten to the ARB harness yet... Wire from the battery to the positive bus of the fuseblock is 6ga, the kringle is because there's going to be a taller battery in there. The Optima sits at 12.2V

JMS_1625.jpg


JMS_1628.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tools R Us said:
Wiring looks good, how come the wiring on the '40 doesn't look like that?:hillbilly:
Click to expand...

1. not my fault they didn't make any heatshrink back in the day? :eek:

2. filling dash cavities using lots and lots of wire and bulky connectors reduces overall vibration and noise? :hillbilly:
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

danmcph
'93 vs '97 Motor
Replies
10
Views
1K
slow95z
slow95z
fordoford
97 LX dies without giving gas
Replies
4
Views
772
jonheld
jonheld
Dantheman1985
93 80 series 1fz clutch replacement
Replies
2
Views
397
Gerry McGerry
Gerry McGerry
Dirt Ferguson
Squeal in engine bay, 97 LX
Replies
6
Views
589
Dirt Ferguson
Dirt Ferguson

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom