91 pickup 22re, auto, ps,150k running issues when at operating temp (1 Viewer)

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Feb 22, 2006
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Location
Louisiana
I have a 91 toyota pickup DLX that is having a dying issue when hot and under load, just after restart.

Important things to know, it is an 150k mile, 22re 2.4L automatic, ac, and power steering truck. The truck runs really smooth while driving and accelerates great. The problem comes in when it has ran for an hour+ and is completely up to operating temp. I'll stop at a store and kill it. And after as little as 5 minutes, I start it up again and it has a noticeable miss, but revs smooth. And then when I put it in gear and hold the brake it misses worse and dies. It seems the longer it runs the worse the problem gets. Also if it is started with the ac on it will miss and die. It's like if it has any load on it while it's hot it will die. However if you crank the truck from dead cold and run it through out the day it will run and never skip a beat, unless you kill the engine for any length of time.

Now on to me kinda spit balling, could a bad torque converter cause some of this? I'm going to be replacing the coil soon as well and the cap and rotor. I do know that my old fj40 was having some similar symptoms and a coil cap and wires fixed it for the most part, but it has a carb not fuel injection. I have also seen where the cold start injector can mask bad injectors while it's cold and this could be the case but when I ohmed the injectors they were fine electrically and didn't seem clogged from what I could tell looking at them.

When I did the timing chain I found that the timing links were almost 7 to 10 links off and I could rotate the crank almost 12-15 degrees, before the cam even started to move! I have no idea how this truck was even able to run with it like that. We drove it unknowingly like 300+ miles home from where we bought it. Any help is appreciated!

Work done,

1 denso spark plugs
2 fuel filter
3 alternator
4 seals on injectors
5 oem tps and professionally adjusted at a shop
6 oem timing chain kit and metal guides
7 oem 02 sensor
8 170° thermostat
9 new belts and powersteering tensioner
10 new radiator
11 ohmed the plug wires and checked out good
12 new o rings on the idle screw and distributor
13 new fan clutch
14 new water pump
15 tested all injector plugs with noid light
16 timing set to 5° with timing light
17 vavle adjustment(hot) and to service manual specifications
18 vavle cover gasket and bolt seals
19 ohmed all injectors and they are within range
20 I believe the transmission has had rebuild recently and the fluid is very new looking. Or atleast serviced recently.
21 did a complete emissions delete.
23 new ecm temp sensor
24 compression test done all cylinders are 125psi +/- 5psi

20210804_131253.jpg
 
are you checking resistance while its in fail?
it sounds ignition related with the heat and brake torque thing. potentially fuel delivery would be a little sus with your symptoms too.


and does it eventually clean up after a minute or does it have to cool all the way off again?
 
are you checking resistance while its in fail?
it sounds ignition related with the heat and brake torque thing. potentially fuel delivery would be a little sus with your symptoms too.


and does it eventually clean up after a minute or does it have to cool all the way off again?
If you get it going it does get a little better, but its still missing and if you stop at a red-light there is a good chance it will get worse and die. And this effect is compounded when the ac is on when you stop in gear. I don't really have a way of testing all of the injectors while they are hot
 
Do you have a check engine light?

Probably not your issue but something I noticed. You said you have a 170 degree T-stat. I think it should be 195.

Did you do the emissions delete before or after this started? Did you completely block off the EGR at the intake plenum? It would be a huge vacuum leak if it's still in place and opens when it's not hooked to the exhaust.

Do you still have a vented fuel tank? If the non vented cap is in place and the vent line to the charcoal canister is blocked off to get rid of it you can starve for fuel.

It would be nice to know if it is losing fuel or spark when it dies. Maybe pull a plug wire and check? Or jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostic connector and see if it goes away?

Nice looking truck. I just fixed up and sold one just like it, except it was a 5 speed.

Good luck with it. Hoping it's an easy fix for you.
 
Do you have a check engine light?

Probably not your issue but something I noticed. You said you have a 170 degree T-stat. I think it should be 195.

Did you do the emissions delete before or after this started? Did you completely block off the EGR at the intake plenum? It would be a huge vacuum leak if it's still in place and opens when it's not hooked to the exhaust.

Do you still have a vented fuel tank? If the non vented cap is in place and the vent line to the charcoal canister is blocked off to get rid of it you can starve for fuel.

It would be nice to know if it is losing fuel or spark when it dies. Maybe pull a plug wire and check? Or jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostic connector and see if it goes away?

Nice looking truck. I just fixed up and sold one just like it, except it was a 5 speed.

Good luck with it. Hoping it's an easy fix
Do you have a check engine light?

Probably not your issue but something I noticed. You said you have a 170 degree T-stat. I think it should be 195.

Did you do the emissions delete before or after this started? Did you completely block off the EGR at the intake plenum? It would be a huge vacuum leak if it's still in place and opens when it's not hooked to the exhaust.

Do you still have a vented fuel tank? If the non vented cap is in place and the vent line to the charcoal canister is blocked off to get rid of it you can starve for fuel.

It would be nice to know if it is losing fuel or spark when it dies. Maybe pull a plug wire and check? Or jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostic connector and see if it goes away?

Nice looking truck. I just fixed up and sold one just like it, except it was a 5 speed.

Good luck with it. Hoping it's an easy fix for you.
Well it was before I removed the egr system and I did it trying to solve the issue. And yes all the appropriate block off plates have been installed with new gaskets. Unless there is another port for the egr system that opens when hot. I did leave the cross over pipe behind the engine and the thing thats bolted under the intake not sure what that is called. The charcoal canister is still there and hooked up. It's a good idea about the fuel tank I'll have to look at that. I will also try and get a picture of the engine and the way I had to reroute some of the vacuum lines for things like fpr and such. It really is a good truck and if all else fails I'm considering going to a sniper efi, but that's a whole thing lol. The picture is everything I removed

20230715_010202.jpg
 
Looks like you got it all. 👍 Somebody over on yotatech is probably looking for all that stuff. :p

Did it start happening after the delete?

Any CEL?

Like I mentioned, maybe confirm if it's fuel or spark related. These problems are incredibly frustrating. I hope you figure it out soon and for cheap. Good luck with your truck.
 
Looks like you got it all. 👍 Somebody over on yotatech is probably looking for all that stuff. :p

Did it start happening after the delete?

Any CEL?

Like I mentioned, maybe confirm if it's fuel or spark related. These problems are incredibly frustrating. I hope you figure it out soon and for cheap. Good luck with your truck.
No cel and it was doing this before the delete so. Without a doubt they looking for the stuff lol, but unfortunately I'm keeping it to stay with the truck so that it can be put back to original if ever need be. Another thing I need to consider doing is just replacing all of the vacuum lines as a possible cheap fix. I do appreciate the help with this
 
The only auto trans we ever had was in an 86 4Runner and we NEVER had an issue in 450K miles. Not even a leak. I don't remember if there are diagnostic codes for the trans. So I'm of no help as far as auto trans issues.

I guess I'd want to verify fuel pressure when it happens and if spark is still available at the time. Otherwise you're guessing.
 
Intermittent is tough to troubleshoot. Seems operating temp is only good clue. The description of having a miss makes me think electrical. Verifying spark and fuel at time of failure would help.

I would think if the trans had something hanging up, it could lug it down or kill it but not have a miss like symptom. Plus maybe a code if it has diagnostics and maybe debris in the pan or burnt fluid.
 
Take a picture of the engine from the top. Something tells me you might have deleted too much.
 
A bad brake booster is a huge vacuum leak. Does it run bad when you step on the brake?

You can tell I'm stuck at home and bored. :rolleyes:
It doesn't hiss or try and die when you step on the brake at any point fortunately
 
Take a picture of the engine from the top. Something tells me you might have deleted too much.
I'll be able to soon but I do still have the red and white vsv still there and I'm not sure which one is the the ac idle up vsv though
 
Your throttle body vacuum hoses are goofy. Those ports should be capped for an EGR delete, not looped.

Your charcoal canister vacuum should go to the throttle body, not to the filter on the plenum. Are you missing the fuel pressure regulator VSV? It almost looks like you have the fuel pressure regulator hooked up directly to the plenum filter. Bad idea.
 
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What Toyota says about the fuel pressure regulator VSV:

"The ECU sends signals to the fuel pressure regulator VSV to increase fuel pressure based on the intake air temperature, coolant temperature and starting signal. By this system, engine restartability is maintained when the engine is hot."

If you have bypassed the VSV you are increasing the fuel pressure to the rail.
 

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