Builds 9-77 frame off concours Resto attempt

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Sep 10, 2016
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Kentucky
Unfortunately top had a cut out for a sunroof. Decided just to go with it because gutters and everything else was perfect. Can still patch in future if needed.
 
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Flintville TN
Just went thru your thread. Excellent!! I saved all your pics for reference, thank you for taking the time to post them. Where are you getting your hardware? Are you having your originals plated? I also have a 77. It's a 11/76 build date, I see a few differences from yours. Mine has the same paint code, but unfortunately will never look as nice as yours. Looking forward to following along as you progress!
 
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Just went thru your thread. Excellent!! I saved all your pics for reference, thank you for taking the time to post them. Where are you getting your hardware? Are you having your originals plated? I also have a 77. It's a 11/76 build date, I see a few differences from yours. Mine has the same paint code, but unfortunately will never look as nice as yours. Looking forward to following along as you progress!
Mine is a ‘78 (9-77 build so it’s a 78) so that might account for some differences... I bought a bolt kit (someone on here sells a 200 or so piece kit) and replated what I could on my originals. I called some industrial platers until I found one who’d replate small amounts for me. I sandblasted and cleaned the different parts and then took to plater. And you can do this. I learned on the fly by watching you tube and the internet and talking to others (and this forum is a great resource). I had frame sandblasted and and body bead blasted ($800). I used chassis saver on frame. (Just as good and cheaper than POR 15) then farm implement gloss black over that on frame. Then cleaned body with mineral spirits or ask at a paint and body shop what they use. Primed with a guality high build primer. I used single stage enamel paint. The painting is not hard. It’s the prep and body work. Wet sanding and buffing after painting will make your paint look like a pro. Lots of elbow grease and cleaning on small parts and/or sandblasted the small stuff like ashtray. Painted with krylon automotive spray CAN paint and had pewter stuff mixed at a paint shop based on a code off here. KEY IS HUMIDITY AND TEMP. And light coats. Use krylon. Bought at Lowe’s. Clean w mineral spirits first to remove ALL OIL AND GREASE! Bought a cheap ($15) paint gun from harbor freight that I could throw away to use on frame. Hung up small parts and painted. If any dust, I wet sanded after w 2000 grit (lightly) and buffed w a cordless drill and buffer pad w polishing compound from headlight restoration kit from Walmart. Used same kit for all the plastic pieces and dash knobs. Engine and electrical and brakes and rebuilt knuckles I farmed out as well as transmission rebuild. The welding on lower rockers etc. and some body work I farmed out too. I have bought parts from members on here, Toyota Parts Giant, SOR , CCOT, Cruiser Parts, Cruiser Cor, and City Racer @Racer65. @RAGINGMATT , @pardion @FJ40GURU, Onur, and some others I’m sorry I left out. And metric TLC. Hope this helps.
 
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Sep 10, 2016
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On the rear heater... I disassembled and flushed heater core and soaked in that lime away stuff. Worked really well and flushed w water until water ran clear. Then pressure tested to make sure no leaks. The part number sticker SHOULD go right in the middle but I had a little ding I couldn’t get out so used sticker to cover up.

7065AC8C-145C-4D64-8F09-3BFACCCC1A60.jpeg
 
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Happy new years everyone! Probably done for now until spring and I'll start rewiring the electrical, brake lines and PS... Debating on A/C. Wife prob wants it..
 

jim land

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scott quebec
This will be a nice 40 :clap:
i notice something wrong with your tail lights , the one on the right side is a left side unit (you can see the drainage holes on the top of the lens) and the left one is a right side unit ,also the back up light go to the center
 

Martyt

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Like a poster above, I too just went through your entire thread--rolling stone gathers no moss is apt for your build--super speedy but also very nice work--outstanding really. Am sure wifey will like it. Nice Mopars btw. I had a 66 all original, 427 vette that I sold recently-overheating was always an issue on hot days--I heard the 396s were even worse (granted, air flow not great in early vettes)--curious if you have overheating issues with your big block Mopars--serious old school horsepower in any event.
 
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Sep 10, 2016
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This will be a nice 40 :clap:
i notice something wrong with your tail lights , the one on the right side is a left side unit (you can see the drainage holes on the top of the lens) and the left one is a right side unit ,also the back up light go to the center
Thank you haha. Never noticed that. I’ll change them around. Thanks!
 
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Like a poster above, I too just went through your entire thread--rolling stone gathers no moss is apt for your build--super speedy but also very nice work--outstanding really. Am sure wifey will like it. Nice Mopars btw. I had a 66 all original, 427 vette that I sold recently-overheating was always an issue on hot days--I heard the 396s were even worse (granted, air flow not great in early vettes)--curious if you have overheating issues with your big block Mopars--serious old school horsepower in any event.
No. Big radiators. Never had an issue but engines are close to stock. For my A12 roadrunner (not pictured) I have stroked it and ported and polished the heads and cam. Not installed yet so I don’t know. It’s pushing 600hp+ according to the dyno. I will be using a recored 057 “hemi” radiator. Thanks for the kind words. Love mid year vettes. Had a ‘64 vert but sold it a while back. Regret that. I have a ‘cuda and ‘68 charger as well. Just no place to store them unfortunately.
 
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Ive had several PMs about the frame... I ordered off amazon and used Chassis saver gloss black on the frame. Just as good as POR15 without the price. It's very thick. Sandblasted frame and wiped down with a cleaner first. used old cotton Tshirt with a wire I pre threaded to pull thru the frame in those hard to reach places. I bought a cheap (read $15 disposable) spray gun from harbor freight and then threw it away. Implement paint over the chassis saver from TSC... Tractor and farm implement paint is some of the most durable I've ever seen and I've restored 10 cars or so.
 
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Sep 10, 2016
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Kentucky
I love your build but that sunroof has to go. Please?

Excellent work!

hOOter
I know! PO put it in... the top was in great shape and that just destroys a perfectly good top ,,,,and I hate the sunroof. I'm still debating as to what to do. It's my wifes and she likes it but I'm a purist for the most part.
 
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Feb 23, 2017
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Texas
Please?

It’s an amazing build but the sunroof will seriously undermine your efforts to achieve a label of ‘concours resto’

hOOter
 
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