Builds 9-77 frame off concours Resto attempt (2 Viewers)

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I really like the etched , exposed then clear coated FJ company style Frame # & 2F engine block serial # :popcorn:

That’s Barrett Jackson Level Concourse Grade attention to details more members need to see is possible with a build of your
High caliber !

Awsome photos of everything u have worked so hard on

:)
 
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Great build thread... like a real good comic book: Lots of pictures! :D
 
Impressive! I love the thoroughness of the pics. I hope to do the same kind of frame off on my '76 one day and some of these might help me remember how to put it all back together :beer:
 
Thanks. I am really a mopar guy at heart but have learned to appreciate this workhorse. It’s my wife’s. She said she wanted an old Jeep haha but sent me a pic of a fj40. I really owe a lot of people on this forum thanks for technical advice and info. I deviated from stock on a few things where I thought appropriate, but otherwise have tried to stay as stock and original as possible. IMO, that is where the most history and value is retained. Special thanks to @RAGINGMATT and @pardion and @onur for some hard to find stuff and answering my endless questions. I know there’s others I’m forgetting I’m sorry
 
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A little more

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I have tried to replate everything as factory original. This was done copying nos parts, pictures, factory research, and questions to fj40 experts, as well as looking at my original parts and sales literature. OEM bolts and parts where possible. I know a lot of fasteners were painted, but I used stainless on all hinges etc due to esthetics and durability. This was a difficult decision as I am a purist. I will continue to post pics as assembly proceeds ... thanks for all the nice comments.
 
A few notes... everything was sandblasted or bead blasted. All small parts I have refurbished myself. Just trying to match factory colors and finishes as close as possible.
New OEM radiator
New body mount kit
Flushed all heater cores and pressure tested
NOS heater blower motor and resistor from @cityracer
New Old man Emu springs and shocks
Rebuilt knuckles
Rebuilt brakes and new rotors
Remain clutch
Rebuilt 2F to stock
New Webber carb
Firecracker distributor from TPI
All new upholstery
Will add factory P/S and A/C
All new bolts and screws. OEM where possible
All new OEM emblems and lights
Powder coated roll bar and valve cover as well as evap cover
New lines , rebuilt booster
Rebuilt tranny and all new seals
Cleaned and flushed, then coated gas tank inside to prevent corrosion
New Asin clutch and slave cylinder
New fan clutch
NOS fenders
All OEM Weatherstripping and rubber
Original glass except new OEM Windshield glass (TOYOTA script) might have the last two in country lol I ordered a backup. NLA I’m told
Sealed beam headlights ( not Kyoto unfortunately)
All new factory correct plating
New OEM running boards
OEM window cranks and door handles
Rechromed rear amb door handle
New OEM dash pad
Refurbed all dash nobs
Original wiring rewrapped
Wiper motor rebuilt
 
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To answer a couple of questions... It is single stage enamel. Wet sands and buffs out great. Plating was done by AAA plating in Nashville TN
 
How will, or did, you configure the Cruiser charcoal canister purge to intake? Will you run the OEM fuel pump?

I'm familiar with those carbs, basically a 32/36 progressive, or a 38 synchronous. 38 is recommended because it is harder to make the 32/36 idle on the idle circuit.
 
Wow, another incredible build. Inconceivable workmanship.

Did you swap out the km/hr speedo faceplate in the early pic with the mph faceplate in the later pic of the mounted speedo cluster?
 
Wow, another incredible build. Inconceivable workmanship.

Did you swap out the km/hr speedo faceplate in the early pic with the mph faceplate in the later pic of the mounted speedo cluster?
Yes, sorry that was the wrong pic. From my phone I thought it was a pic of my original but it was one that I saved for the part #. The one installed is my original. I put new LED lights behind
 
How will, or did, you configure the Cruiser charcoal canister purge to intake? Will you run the OEM fuel pump?

I'm familiar with those carbs, basically a 32/36 progressive, or a 38 synchronous. 38 is recommended because it is harder to make the 32/36 idle on the idle circuit.
It was the 38 I believe.I have desmogged it... not sure about the charcoal canister because I am going to have the mechanic hook up all the wiring and brake lines and engine stuff... So I'm not sure if the canister is even something I need or will use...? I'm pretty ignorant compared to you guys on these things. I enjoy the small detail stuff and painting.
 

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