8series steel vs. aluminum rims strength?

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The chevy heavy half ton wheels should have a higher weight rating I would think, and the same bolt pattern, you may find some aftermarket truck wheels that have a heavier rating that way, but...

The 80 series alloys are fairly beefy, and I've had good luck with the fjcruiser 17" alloys under my 6BT powered 80, though they are a bit narrow, and I'm kinda of inclined to wonder if you were running the wrong shoulder pitch nuts on those other wheels, that would surely cause issue's as well.

Another option would be some of the overbuilt beadlock wheels that are designed to handle desert racing, cant think of the brands off the top of my head. Trail gears wheels are 17's and have the same wheel in 8 bolt so they may be built to heavier ratings.
 
The OEM 16x8 inch steel wheel is very thick and weighs twice as much as the 16x8 alloy. The alloy is ~21 lbs and the steel is ~42 lbs. I moved mine over from my 80 to my BJ74. Steel wheels and 35s are too much for me to handle any more.......:frown: 285/75/16 on the 74.

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Golgo,

Help me out here - trying to be diplomatic. The 80 series alloy wheels are forged, not cast, not pressure cast. I was the Product Planner for Lexus in the late 80s to early 90s. Take a quick glance in a brochure from the day, and you'll also see we thought it brag-worthy because of the exhorbitant cost.

The alloys are incredibly stout though I've heard when you get old and out of shape they are hard to move around due to the ridiculous weight....

DougM
 
To quote my 1993 Land Cruiser brochure:

"ALLOY ALLURE, Adding refinement
to ruggedness, aluminum alloy wheels
are an attractive option, The large 16-
inch wheels are forged to complement
the Land Cruiser's bold style."
 
I'd get fired for showing a drawing, so I can't do that.
I don't have a reason to lie, so why bother?

The writer of the brochure may have taken liberties with the definition of "forged." Like when they say something is "titanium" but they really only mean the color.

CDan, if you can get a picture or P/N I will check again, and more closely.
If I'm wrong, I'll gladly eat some crow.
 
You would get fired for showing a 20 year old drawing on a part that is no longer used in production? Why was it I could get engineering drawings of the Lexus engines from the Lexus engineers working on destructive testing? Sorry just seems like a strange policy to have.
 
The 1993 alloy part numbers were 42611-60081 or 42611-60090. One made by "Topy" and one by" Toyotsu".

The 60081 is discontinued and there is ONE 60090 left in the US.
 
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Golgo, no worries about eating crow, you would not believe the esoteric arguments that have taken place here. Ask if it's OK to tow a 5000lb trailer with the 4 bolt holes in the stock bumper. Or if the white exterior paint has a clear coat. Etc. all good in Mud-land.
 
Doug, I returned your PM. Thanks for the story!

CDan, sorry to say, but both those part numbers are definitely castings. I think someone took a little liberty using their thesaurus in writing that brochure.

I'll keep digging for stronger wheels. I can definitely say with certainty that our OE wheels are better than anything you'll find aftermarket!
 
I also want to stick to OEM, I had my share with aftermarket and other brand wheels!!!
I spent too much money and time in crappy wheels, I want the real stuff now!

Alcoa seems to make 6 hole wheels I just read, but they will be probably very expensive!
They will hold around 7500kg as much as I know, PER wheel! At least they do for the 5 lug version! Was tested at the german Tüv to get the homologation...

The main question still is: is the OEM J8 steel wheel stronger than the J8 alloy wheel? I want the strongest I can get!
 
Alcoa seems to make 6 hole wheels I just read, but they will be probably very expensive!
They will hold around 7500kg as much as I know, PER wheel! At least they do for the 5 lug version! Was tested at the german Tüv to get the homologation...

The main question still is: is the OEM J8 steel wheel stronger than the J8 alloy wheel? I want the strongest I can get!


If Alcoa makes a proper replacement (offset etc.) wheel for the 80 series, I'm there for six! Like CDan, at my age these large tires on steel 16 X 8 factory wheels are just too heavy to work with!
Forged (from one piece) aluminum wheels have tested at four times stronger in crush tests according to alcoa than their steel counterparts.....at least in 22.5 and 24.5 inch bus/truck applications, can't imagine that a 16 inch wheel would be any different. FWIW

Cheers,
Gord
 
Doug, I returned your PM. Thanks for the story!

CDan, sorry to say, but both those part numbers are definitely castings. I think someone took a little liberty using their thesaurus in writing that brochure.

I'll keep digging for stronger wheels. I can definitely say with certainty that our OE wheels are better than anything you'll find aftermarket!

Any internal information about the steel wheel, 42601-60360-03/42601-60361?

Since it weighs twice as much it should be twice as strong?...:lol:

I imagine poetic license is regularly abused in advertising........:)
 
On the Alcoa: they wrote me in the USA they cost 218$ + shipping. Takes about 4-5 weeks from a vendor I asked.

I know that the 5 hole Alcoa was tested in Germany and they pulled out the studs a few times, that wheel is SUPER strong!
I guess the 6 hole will also be very strong! I read in the german forum it's 1400kg, but that's very heavy duty use! Many german 70series expedition cars (that usually run around 4000kg total vehicle weight) got them and there was never an issue with them!
 
Alcoa is not normally a name associated with off-roading, but they have a sterling rep within the trucking industry. The fleet I helped manage had a bunch of them on tractors and trailers.

If you think the weight comparison between steel and aluminum wheels for the 80 is telling, consider the weight saved in a semi-truck wheel.:idea:
 
x18....
 
greentruck,
I can guarantee the wheels are not forged. All Toyota wheels with very few exceptions are cast. I'm a chassis engineer at toyota.
1 exception is the Lexus LFA supercar. For any other vehicle the cost/benefit ratio favors castings.
There is no problem with a cast wheel, as long as it is designed properly.
Any wheel, whether it is steel, aluminum, forged, or cast, if it is damaged, should be replaced and not repaired. Repair shops are only equipped to make something LOOK new. They can't repair the internal damage in the material.


Lexus isf comes with forged BBS wheels FYI.
 
CDan,

I checked the drawings for steel wheels as well and since it was also developed for the 80 Series, it is maxed out at around 1150kg. Unfortunately, just weighing more, does not mean it is stronger. Keep in mind that aluminum is about 1/3 the density of steel.
I checked a Hilux wheel today and found it has about the same spec. That might be good vehicle to use for ordering parts.
Keep in mind, the cracks occur from fatigue. Fatigue builds over time and there is a limit to the life of a wheel. If you buy a set with 250k miles on them, they will have much less life(strength) left.

>Warning, this next part gets a little long and technical, but if your good with google, you can get better detail and more. Also, these are not Toyota's actual specs and don't bother asking what they are.<

Something else which is important to understand is that material or process(forging, casting, stamping, etc.) are of no consequence in the strength/durability of a wheel. A wheel is designed to support a load. A good design is optimized for mass, cost, style and strength.

Forging is expensive and in an OE application is reserved for vehicles where mass is more important than cost. Lexus LFA and IS-F(thanks for the reminder, THEROK) are performance vehicles where every gram counts and cost is secondary. Camry, on the other hand, is a high-sales-volume vehicle and every $0.0001 counts. LFA/IS-F get forged wheels, Camry gets cast.

Back to the job of the wheel, supporting a load... if I am told that a vehicle has a max axle weight of 1000kg at fully loaded condition, I design a wheel to support 500kg for the "life" of the vehicle. "Life" is a carefully calculated amount of usage, but for the sake of an example lets say life is 60,000miles(this is wayyy low, but its a nice round number). I plug 500kg and some other vehicle characteristics into a couple formulas and I get back test loads for Cornering Fatigue, Radial Load Fatigue and an impact test. These are the 3 main tests used in the industry to qualify a wheel for production service on public roads. There are several groups, all with different standards, JWL(Japan), NHTSA(US), SAE(US and GLOBAL) and a few others. Everyone has a slightly different way of calculating life. For example, European standards are higher than SAE.

Cornering fatigue is important for loading in the front wheels during a turn. Cornering is very hard on a wheel.
Radial Load fatigue is important for rear wheels where the majority of the weight is in a loaded vehicle. The rear wheels do not turn, so the cornering forced are minimal.
The impact test is just that. Imagine hitting a curb or pothole at a decent speed, you wouldn't want the wheel to break.

Now that I have test loads for each test and a life requirement, I can design a wheel. A stylist gives me a design he likes and I slap him and tell him to try again. This repeats until we have a design that is worth simulating on a computer in specialized analysis software. In the old days, styling was much simpler and "easy" to predict with hand calculations. Now, styling is more complex and optimization is more efficient with the computer.
The computer breaks the wheel into a mess of very small pieces and calculates how the load is transferred from one tiny piece to the next, over and over and over again. The stress in the wheel is then analyzed by an engineer to determine if changes need to be made to the styling.
This is the key point: Each material has certain stress limits and each style/wheel design is optimized to reduce the mass and cost, keep the styling intent and(ideally) not last a single revolution past the design life from above. No matter what material i used, I want to make sure I meet all my targets. Typically this means the wheel is heavier than I want and costs a couple $ more because I had strength requirements to meet and a stylist to entertain.

An interesting rule of thumb from fatigue testing is that if you reduce your load by 20%, the life will be extended approx. 3 times the original. So if I design a wheel for 500kg and 60,000miles and then only ever load it to a maximum of 400kg, it will last 180,000 miles. Or the reverse, if I increase the load to 600kg, it will only last 20,000 miles. Even more interesting is that aluminium and steel show the same relationship in most cases. It is possible to get "infinite" life from steel at very low loads, but when was the last time you removed weight from your Land Cruiser and kept it off?
Oh, yeah, when your girl left you because you prefer to spend your time with your truck...

I can't wait to hear how many things are wrong above. I've got my nomex PJs on.
If people are interested, especially some of the senior members, I could start a separate thread to explain more detail, but I would still have to leave out Toyota specifics.

Scotty, I don't know how you got Lexus drawings. Whoever gave them to you was risking their job as well. I like my job and need the money, so I won't take that change no matter how many times I am asked.
 
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