‘89 LJ70 - ‘upgrade’ 2L-T to 2L2-T, wiring help! (1 Viewer)

[Paterno]

Hi all, long time lurker 1st time poster.

I wish in had read up more before getting a ‘89 LJ70 with a 2LT.

Even worse, after catastrophic failure I bot another 2LT engine to replace it AND double trouble turns out it’s a 2LT-2 (or 2L2-T) from a 4Runner.

I have no experience with auto mechanics but have a friend with experience helping.

So far, we have:
- removed the old engine
- transferred the old alternator
- bolted in the new engine
- added a new horizontal oil filter
- added a new simple diesel filter (bypass the original system in the car)
- reattached the throttle linkage with a bracket
- reworked the turbo air inlet and various other conduits

Also we will:
- plug the additional lines from the injection pump
- adapt the turbo exhaust for the different flange angle

Whilst I would like to make some mods I need to get this running quick and dirty as Everyday this isn’t running I am risking divorce having vetoed getting another car in favour of this engine.

That’s biggest problem we face now (as far as we know) is that the wiring harness for the 2L2-T is much more extensive than what we have available on the car.

I have trawled thru many online manuals but being a newb I have not been able to isolate the 2L2-T wiring so we can adapt to the old LJ70 setup.

So question: can one of you fine people step a newb who’s WAY over his head thru the wiring requirements.

We don’t have an AC/compressor.

Pictures to follow

Thanks in advance!

 

[Paterno]

Photos:

 

[Paterno]

More photos:

 

[Dprio34]

@Paterno, I went down this road too.
Don't let the wiring overwhelm you.

The most critical items are the fuel cut out solenoid and the wires going to the starter. These should plug right in to newer engine.
(they are the same connection sizes/fitting)

I had issues with the glow plug rail, so I put in a manual heating switch, aka, Wilson Switch.
Don't waste time trying to adapt the older to the new. You will be spinning your wheels.

Lose all the emissions wiring. Lose the EGR System. Then that 2LT-II harness will seem less intimidating.

Just use the search feature on this forum, "2LT vs 2LTII" and you can read all the drama.

Yes, you will need to do some "light" custom work to the exhaust. No getting around that.
Any muffler shop should have you out the door in less than 1 hour or two.

Link:

2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build

Have Fun, Don

 

[Paterno]

Thanks Don, I very happy to see your message as my partner in crime is ready to throw in the towel.

I've been thru your thread a few times, must say a lot of this is new to me but I'm determined to get it sorted without having to call in an expert, especially as here in Italy very little work is done at this time of year which could mean a long wait and for sure means lots of $$$.

My main concerns are the ERG system and glow rail.

Starting with the one that's clearer in my mind, the ERG, am I correct in assuming I need to:

Disconnect / remove the ERG electrics
Remove the EGR pipe
Make & Add blanking plates at both ends
Remove the throttle plate
Block relevant vacuum tube

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dprio34]

@Paterno, it would have been a little easier to remove the EGR system with the engine out of the vehicle, but it is still easy and straight forward.

Start at the back of the exhaust manifold near the firewall. Remove the EGR "Tube" (whatever it is called),
and take the metal gasket and trace that over a piece of 3/16th steel or equivalent metric size.
Cut it out with a hand grinder or die grinder.
Use that piece block off the exhaust manifold. You don't need to re-use the metal gasket. Just put a bit of
Black Gasket Sealant on the "blank off plate".

Now you are 1/3 of the way done.

Remove the Throttle Body / Throttle Plate. Blank off the opening where the EGR entered the Throttle Body. You can use Aluminum or Steel on this plate.
As the Intake doesn't get as hot or have the higher pressures of the exhaust manifold.

Now you are 3/4 of the way done.

Next part - Glow Plug Rail.
This may look totally overwhelming, but it isn't.
Actually, you probably don't need to worry about it to get the engine started.

1st, Slightly crack the nuts at the fuel rail at the head.
Make sure fuel is getting delivered to the cylinders.
Have someone try to start the Cruiser and verify fuel is coming out at the rail.

I'm 99% certain if the engine is good, and it is getting fuel, the little 2L-TII will turn right over.
Yes, it should turn over in Italy in the late summer without that glow plug rail being energized,
(assuming that engine is in decent shape).

Once EGR system is all cleaned up, and you have a success under your belt,
we can tackle the Wilson Switch, for that trip up to the Italian Alps where is it colder.

Some other LJ owners on the forum may be able to offer additional help on removing the EGR System while the engine is place. There are probably a few tricks & techniques to that.

Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any questions.
In bocca al lupo,
Don

 

[Paterno]

Thanks again Don.

So the plot thickens, having spent a couple of hour researching EGR removal and armed with your message I went to garage. Looks like someone beat me to it, after I removed some of throttle plate parafenalia I noticed strangely the manifold doesn't look as tho it's been plated.

I didn't have a lot of time but as I tackle the throttle plate I will investigate further, possible the EGR connection was around the side.

I've reread the 1990 manual and it seems the LN engine didn't have EGR, one less thing to worry about and good to know which manual to read.

Much appreciate the detailed and timely replies, I'm confident this will get done now, as they say here piano, piano...

Cheers, Aran

 

[Dprio34]

Aran,
Great News; one less thing, like they say.
Hope you her running soon.

 

[Paterno]

So an update.

Removed the throttle plate and accompanying bits and bobs, had to drill the screws out but was straight forward.

We then went wire by wire until we had removed all but starter motor, fuel injection pump and solenoid, a couple of temperature and glow wires. The previous owner had done some work so the old wiring had a few sloppy mods....

We had to trim the fan shroud and radiator piping for the new engine, still amazed how different these two engines are despite both having the same reference.

Left the glows and connected the rest and sure enough she started, sounds a lot better than the old 2l-T especially the new turbo.

Initally the engine didn't turn off but we quickly worked out we'd a miswiring.

We finished the exhaust modification and went for a drive!

It's been a real rollercoaster ride, we were under pressure to free up the worklshop, our respecitve wives thinking we were just goofing off and at times we really weren't sure if we'd get it going.

Temps have dropped here so will get to work on connecting the glows but now pretty confident about those, Wilson switch or not.

Thanks so much for the support Don it really made a difference. I'm inspired and been looking to see what other mods might be worth it, the air intake mod you did looks like an easy win and the cuurent toyota one has a lot of give and gaps.

 

[Dprio34]

@Paterno, Glad you got her running!! Awesome. I'm just glad I was able to help someone out and hopefully save someone some pain. I live in a hot climate, but I imagine your area of Italy doesn't get too cold. I only use the Wilson switch if I'm camping in the winter at higher elevations and in Dec-Feb in the mornings when it goes below 5 Celsius. Really no rush to get that Wilson Switch wired up unless you are planning a trip where it gets colder.

@GTSSportCoupe has some great threads in the Diesel Section of Mud on how to improve this motor. He is the go to guy when it come to the 2L-TII and 2L-TE. When you get time, I recommend checking out his thread on improving the reliability and performance of this motor.

Cheers!
Don