87FJ60

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schuy2147 said:
Started my desmog process today. Made some good progress.
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The air rail is still on as I’m letting the 6 ports soak a bit longer. They’ve all broken free except the rear one closest to the firewall. Does anyone have any experience reaching this one? Looks pretty much impossible.
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I did it with the carb off. I don't remember exactly how I did it but I remember that part didn't survive disassembly. If I had to do it again I'd try the Knipex pliers wrench before even a line wrench. I seem to think the tubing got cut and I took it out with a deep socket.
 
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More progress today on the desmog. Thanks for the insight on the air rail removal @MoaByte! After removing the carb insulator plate I saw just how bad my exhaust/intake manifold gaskets are. I’m missing one of the nuts and washers too. Anyone know a good place to source the gaskets and that hardware?
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Use a Remflex gasket unless you want it to leak after reassembly. They're little thicker than OEM and available off Amazon. Nuts and bolts you can get from Toyota. You'll also want to have the intake/exhaust face machined flat. Lots of threads about it.
 
More progress. Exhaust/intake manifolds removed. Pretty sure I had some leaks. :rofl:Remfelx gaskets on order. Looking for a machine shop to hone these surfaces or debating going with new header like Man-A-Fre or JoeTLC?
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Seems like every step I take to completing one project, another potential issue (head gasket) shows up. Hmmm.

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the intake and exhaust need to be assembled as a unit to get the surface planed, also have the recesses trued so the washer will sit flat against both intake and exhaust.

some headers have different thickness flange so step washers are used to get equal clamping force

could also go the 3FE exhaust route, those need step washers also
 
Check for cracks at the base of the intake manifold (above the heat flap, below where you have your blue shop towel). Very common for them to crack there and cause a vacuum leak. Also check that the heat flap in the exhaust man. is working correctly, many have seized. Being from SC, you won't have much cold to contend with, so you can get a block off plate if the flapper is broken or you don't want it in there.
 
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Seems the 3F exhaust manifold is a better choice than a header. The MAF header is a great unit but it's thicker than the intake and the Ram Flex will not fix that unless you either plain the header surface down (a lot) or build up the intake to match. I cut some washers into a "C" shape to build up the difference and got a good seal with OEM gasket. The Ram Flex would likely have worked but I was nervous of the low torque specs it requires, much lower than OEM.
It's lasted 3 years so far. Anyway, it has much better acceleration and pulls grades better than before.
 
Have you decided if you are going to recurve the distributor or go HEI?
Are you going to remedy the stock carb, get a Chinese FJ40 style, Webber or Sniper EFI?

This is major surgery, but getting the spaghetti monster out makes it so much simpler. You will get through this and will be glad.
 
MoaByte said:
Seems the 3F exhaust manifold is a better choice than a header.
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I've read a bunch on this option. We'll see if I take that route in the future. I'm starting to think at this point a reseal using my factory manifold will be the quickest way to get the 60 back on the road for the time being.

MoaByte said:
Have you decided if you are going to recurve the distributor or go HEI?
Are you going to remedy the stock carb, get a Chinese FJ40 style, Webber or Sniper EFI?

This is major surgery, but getting the spaghetti monster out makes it so much simpler. You will get through this and will be glad.
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I've got the City Racer non-usa distributor and Fuji carb on deck waiting for install. I may just leave the stock distributor for now though. In he desmog thread, JimC says it's not a deal breaker for the dizzy but helps.

I appreciate the motivation!
 
Dekeman said:
Check for cracks at the base of the intake manifold (above the heat flap, below where you have your blue shop towel). Very common for them to crack there and cause a vacuum leak. Also check that the heat flap in the exhaust man. is working correctly, many have seized. Being from SC, you won't have much cold to contend with, so you can get a block off plate if the flapper is broken or you don't want it in there.
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Thanks for the tips. I've got it cleaned up pretty well and I can't see anything with the naked eye. Still trying to figure the heat riser thing out. Block it off or keep it and hope it functions correctly?
 
Getting the exhaust manifold cleaned up. Looks like the original heat riser gasket has welded itself to the base. Having a hell of a time getting it off. Any suggestions? I worked it with a hammer and chisel. Tried the grinder too.
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Since you're getting the intake/exhaust face machined anyway, let the shop take care of it. Chisel won't do much at this point.
 
onemanarmy said:
True 33" tires need a bit more lift. The 2" lift and 33" BFGs is perfect....cause they are 31.5" on a good day.

Did you install front caster shims?
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I ran my 33’s with stock suspension just fine for a year before doing the dobinsons. 4* front shims recommend.

@schuy2147 discount tire is picky and stick to their corporate rules. They recently wouldn’t plug/patch a tire that my stores would regularly do for our customers. Been running 10.5” wide tires on 6-7” rims for years no issues….

Great looking 60!
 
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So the heat riser in the exhaust manifold. I picked up a block off plate from CruiserYard. Question is, what do you do with the flap inside the manifold? Seems I could just grind the welds off the bolts and unscrew the flap from the bar and just leave the rest? Seems constructive to leave the whole flap in there.

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Plenty of good reads on here about the process.
Start here, and here. There's more but you'll yield better search results via google and ih8mud.
 
schuy2147 said:
I've got the City Racer non-usa distributor and Fuji carb on deck waiting for install. I may just leave the stock distributor for now though. In he desmog thread, JimC says it's not a deal breaker for the dizzy but helps.
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If you want to keep your Toyota electronic ignition instead of points (in your new City Racer distributor), I can set you up with that. I have all the needed parts. Check out Post #19 of my thread here:

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