87FJ60

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Pretty much the same pic from yesterday. Manifold nuts and bolts torqued. Exhaust flange gasket installed and torqued.
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Been waiting on my carb insulator plate from @ToyotaMatt for about 3 weeks now.
 
It looks like your coil and igniter are anxiously awaiting your new City Racer distributor. I'll get your distributor conversion turned around really quick for you. There's a good chance @ToyotaMatt's carb insulator plate will arrive first.
 
Are you going to adjust your valves while you're waiting? Access at this stage will never be easier.
 
Check the cold spec now to see what you're up against. When you get the carb back on, run engine until warm, then reset to spec. Some will say do it with engine running but you can achieve good results with a warm engine off. Run the engine again with the valve cover off (oil will not squirt all over) and listen carefully for any that seem too quiet (plotting something nefarious) or too loud; adjust again as necessary. Remember the valve cover torque is inch pounds, like 78 I think, they are easy to overtorque.
 
schuy2147 said:
Pretty much the same pic from yesterday. Manifold nuts and bolts torqued. Exhaust flange gasket installed and torqued.
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Been waiting on my carb insulator plate from @ToyotaMatt for about 3 weeks now.
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your insulator plate shipped today , ......


wood lath strips both sides of box


heavy-duty-shipping method

thanks
matt

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schuy, I'm about to tackle this on my project and watching you post. Nice job with the photos.
How did machining and the gasket business go? Were there any surprises or something you'd do different next time on the de-smog?
 
rawrt said:
schuy, I'm about to tackle this on my project and watching you post. Nice job with the photos.
How did machining and the gasket business go? Were there any surprises or something you'd do different next time on the de-smog?
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Thanks. I'm doing my best to document everything being worked with the cruiser.

As far as the machining goes, I reached out to a very reputable LC shop in my area for info on who they'd recommend and that's who I used. The machinist was familiar with the process and the end-goal as he had worked them before. If you can't find anyone familiar with the 2F manifolds I'd just make sure you have a solid understanding of the process so you can get the results you're looking for. It's pretty basic concept but just know that depending on how much is removed from either manifold, you'll have to address the mounting bolt/nut washer recess surface to match.

Surprises? Oh yeah. As you know with any project, older LC's especially, there's always more to the onion once you peel a layer back. In my case there was an abundance of gasket decay, missing exhaust manifold nuts, and exhaust leaks I wasn't really aware of; the cruiser was running okay at the time. Depending on your situation I'd suggest being prepared for all of the above during your desmog to include, as you've already mentioned, machine work on the manifolds, new but maybe not required for your situation carb insulator plate, new manifold gaskets (I used Remflex), new exhaust flange gasket, and a block-off plate for the heat riser if you decide to eliminate it like I did (which also needs machine work). I also have a new carb and dissy from @Racer65
 
Finally got the ol girl buttoned up and tuned..I think. Desmog is complete except for a couple questions.
First is where does this hose go? I believe it was routed to the egr pipe.
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Second issue is my AC does not activate now. Must have done something during the desmog because it worked flawlessly prior.

So far it’s running much better than it did before. I’d say the majority of the desmog system was broken and inoperable. No telling how much drag that put on the efficiency of the engine.

City Racer carb tuned almost perfectly out the box. I used the lean drop method via @OTRAMM

I haven’t touched the stock dizzy yet and I’m surprised at how well it’s running. I guess time will tell if that becomes an issue.
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If I'm wrong, someone please set me straight. That hose is just another case vent like the PCV. They don't need vacuum for the engine to run, but might as well plumb them in to burn the vapors and to keep the dirt from getting in. The hard part is doing it so it looks clean.
 
Swapped the clutch master and slave today. Thanks @Racer65 for the quick ship. Pretty straight forward task. Had an issue bleeding the system by myself though. There was a significant air bubble trapped. Pulled my manual mighty vac off the shelf and it was completely seized. Had to improvise. Ended up using some parts from the mighty vac, the old reservoir cap and a shop vac to get the system primed enough to bleed the system per FSM. All good. And she got a wash.
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Did you figure out your ac issue yet? My 87 was de smogged when I bought it and I see my compressor is unplugged on the passenger side. Not sure as I'm still learning about these rigs but I think there is a valve or something (possibly drivers side fender?) that kicks the idle up for the ac that you may have removed. Hopefully someone who actually knows will chime in.
 
Arlo89 said:
Did you figure out your ac issue yet? My 87 was de smogged when I bought it and I see my compressor is unplugged on the passenger side. Not sure as I'm still learning about these rigs but I think there is a valve or something (possibly drivers side fender?) that kicks the idle up for the ac that you may have removed. Hopefully someone who actually knows will chime in.
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I haven’t figured that out yet. It’s on the top of the list but clutch went out so that took priority. I’ll have to dig into that next.
 
Installed the battery cable kit from @Fourrunner. Super easy install and well worth it. My 60 came with an aftermarket stainless battery tray so the stabilizing arm presented some challenges with the fender mounting but I’ve found a temporary tweak. Not sure how I’ll mod that. Crazy how fast it cranked over on a cold day. Highly recommend this kit.
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