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- #41
87 FJ60 GM 6.2 Sidewinder Turbo Swap
- Thread starter antichrist
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- Thread starter
- #42
The final engine set is complete and couldnt be happier - the engine look like it belongs. Also I'll have to say two things really make this easier - removing the front clip and using a mock block. Access without the clip is perfect its allowed a complete repainted , fitting custom pieces is a hell alot easier and fitting the mounts was great. Here is the clearence using the Marks Adapter:
Also note that I re-ran the brake lines; I used stainless steel and ran them down the firewall from the master cylinder and clutch master then into and around the tunnel and put my expansion loops on the passenger side. I struggled with the flaring of the lines until I got the Eastwood flaring tool (awesome tool - perfect flares everytime)
Also note that I re-ran the brake lines; I used stainless steel and ran them down the firewall from the master cylinder and clutch master then into and around the tunnel and put my expansion loops on the passenger side. I struggled with the flaring of the lines until I got the Eastwood flaring tool (awesome tool - perfect flares everytime)
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- #43
OK a number of posts here as I have been forced to work and just wanna catch up and maintain a decent log of progress for a FJ60/6.2 swap. I finally decided to go with the turbo in the Banks kit position (forward on the passenger side). This meant a few sacrifices: My main battery will need to be relocated - thinking about mounting two 6v Optimas wired in series in the real quarter panel or in a water proof box (vented) under the body in a custom slider frame. Also the passenger inner fender had to be cut:
The next step here is a sheet metal modification to cover the turbo. We sized this to provide both a stand-off to prevent over heating and for maintenace access. Plenty of room for the down tube although these photos do not suggest that. I purchased 3" round and oval stainless to get the down tube from the turbo to the muffler. I'll post pics and results over the next few days as that completes
The next step here is a sheet metal modification to cover the turbo. We sized this to provide both a stand-off to prevent over heating and for maintenace access. Plenty of room for the down tube although these photos do not suggest that. I purchased 3" round and oval stainless to get the down tube from the turbo to the muffler. I'll post pics and results over the next few days as that completes
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- #44
For those wondering about motor mount dimensions here they are:
Drivers side
PAssenger Side
These are the MArks Motor mounts but customized. All welded out rust encapsulated and painted with frame paint.
The trans mount is the original in the stock postion. There was no need to change anything for the shifters. Elevation back there is pretty much stock. The engine sits like it belongs ther with good clearence all around. One observation: the fron of the truck looks like it is sitting higher than the stock motor - I weighed the old motor on our truck scale- it came in around 900lbs the new 6.2 is around 700. I will need to make some changes to get the trucks stance right.
Drivers side
PAssenger Side
These are the MArks Motor mounts but customized. All welded out rust encapsulated and painted with frame paint.
The trans mount is the original in the stock postion. There was no need to change anything for the shifters. Elevation back there is pretty much stock. The engine sits like it belongs ther with good clearence all around. One observation: the fron of the truck looks like it is sitting higher than the stock motor - I weighed the old motor on our truck scale- it came in around 900lbs the new 6.2 is around 700. I will need to make some changes to get the trucks stance right.
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- #45
The radiator fit is a concern as to what and how much fan one can get in:
Here is the front clip back on and in position. I placed the radiator in and I have 3.75" of clearence from radiator face to those studs sticking out of the water pump (One could easily remove the studs and use bolts for additional clearence). I found a Derale single 17" diameter fan with aluminum shroud that has a total of 3" of thickness.
Here is the front clip back on and in position. I placed the radiator in and I have 3.75" of clearence from radiator face to those studs sticking out of the water pump (One could easily remove the studs and use bolts for additional clearence). I found a Derale single 17" diameter fan with aluminum shroud that has a total of 3" of thickness.
GOod job offsetting your engine for drive line clearances. I've seen some people center their engines and have big issues no tissues can solve.
The ford taurus dual electric fan is a popular swap. (90's era)
Late 80's early 90's. not sure on exact dates.
Just my $.02 but STAY AWAY from Optima products. They are made in Mexico now and the quality has gone totally to poop. I had a blue top in my camping trailer fail in roughly 2-3 months. I switched to Odyssey batteries because I need a gel cell I can mount in any position and I have been very pleased with the Odyssey's so far. Not cheap, but they are the only USA made gel cell left (as far as I could tell).
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- #50
OK! I am back and I have completed the swap and have the truck running real good. But I want to update the progress in order to preserve this thread as a template for others. So lets pick up where I left off - at the Radiator:
The Derale fan is the perfect fit and is a very good product. Fit finish and the kit was very complete. The wiring went very well and the fan worked first time as advertised.
Note the PSC power steering remote reservoir kit. This really helped with the power steering pump clearance.
Additionally in regards to the motor torque I used a very expensive Fluidamper for the prime reason that it is known to reduce the one weakness of the 6.2 in that the stock damper as it wears loads the crank and main bearing webs to the point of failure. The other benefit in reality, now that I have the engine running, is that this damper has taken a lot of movement out of the engine and the clearances at the steering box and at the exhaust down tube is not a problem.
The Derale fan is the perfect fit and is a very good product. Fit finish and the kit was very complete. The wiring went very well and the fan worked first time as advertised.
Note the PSC power steering remote reservoir kit. This really helped with the power steering pump clearance.
Additionally in regards to the motor torque I used a very expensive Fluidamper for the prime reason that it is known to reduce the one weakness of the 6.2 in that the stock damper as it wears loads the crank and main bearing webs to the point of failure. The other benefit in reality, now that I have the engine running, is that this damper has taken a lot of movement out of the engine and the clearances at the steering box and at the exhaust down tube is not a problem.
- Thread starter
- #51
In terms of the auxiliary battery, I agree with Rock40. The Optimas aren't what they use to be. BUT.... I really had no choice due to the fit in the rear quarter panel and the need to match my Main battery (an Optima but its a Gel) upfront.
These fit real nice and neat behind Kevin's Wagon Gear Panel:
These fit real nice and neat behind Kevin's Wagon Gear Panel:
Holy crap!! This is a great build. I want to see this in action!!
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- #53
What's really apparent when I drive this is that the gearing is waaay tooo short. I can start from a standstill in third gear and I am in 5th at 45 mph and the engine is running too hard at 70 mph. So I have 34" tires and 3:70 gears showing up next week. This truck has plenty of low end torque and when it loads the turbo just adds more.
Correction on my main battery- its a Sears AGM
For those thinking about a turbo for a similar swap, here is the work done on the passenger side inner fender:
This is a good practical pocket that does really impact steering radius with the tire. I drilled drain holes for water drainage and covered the turbo with a heat shield. I'll place a custom rubber skirt to seal the engine bay from the fender area. Another reason to take the front clip off- a lot easier than what I thought it would take.
Correction on my main battery- its a Sears AGM
For those thinking about a turbo for a similar swap, here is the work done on the passenger side inner fender:
This is a good practical pocket that does really impact steering radius with the tire. I drilled drain holes for water drainage and covered the turbo with a heat shield. I'll place a custom rubber skirt to seal the engine bay from the fender area. Another reason to take the front clip off- a lot easier than what I thought it would take.
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- #54
The exhaust down tube was really tricky - not a lot of room and I wanted maintainability. So I wanted to be bale to remove sections quickly and easily but also allow things to grow thermally to avoid cracking. I also wanted stainless exhaust (because I really, really hate doing things twice). The down tube between the exhaust manifold and the frame rail is a tight fit.
Once past the frame I need to work around the frond drive shaft- Note that I needed to dent the tubing for full articulation relief. Also used a couple of re-enforced bellows expansion joints.
The marks adapter moves the clutch forward with the engine and is in the Marks supplied new bell housing and thus leaves the old bell house somewhat open. Which gave me a place to cross over with no impact to ground clearance. I am now making an insulated sheet metal shield to close off this area
From that point on its a straight run to a Borla 1 in two out high flow muffler and I run duel exhaust that exits just behind each rear wheel with Borla stainless resonator tips. The beast should like a big block chevy with the healthy diesel chatter - sport wood every time I hear it.
Once past the frame I need to work around the frond drive shaft- Note that I needed to dent the tubing for full articulation relief. Also used a couple of re-enforced bellows expansion joints.
The marks adapter moves the clutch forward with the engine and is in the Marks supplied new bell housing and thus leaves the old bell house somewhat open. Which gave me a place to cross over with no impact to ground clearance. I am now making an insulated sheet metal shield to close off this area
From that point on its a straight run to a Borla 1 in two out high flow muffler and I run duel exhaust that exits just behind each rear wheel with Borla stainless resonator tips. The beast should like a big block chevy with the healthy diesel chatter - sport wood every time I hear it.
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- #55
Must have slipped in another photo a lil early above- that is the drivers side hose routing for both the hydroboost lines and the engine external cooler line. I ran hose out and didn't want to connect an oil cooler until I had some run time. It's apparent to me that the aluminum radiator does just fine for 65 mpg and below. But the full highway speeds seem to creep engine temps up. The new gearing and wheel will help. But I am going to fit an engine oil cooler in and install the air bleeder off of the CUCV donor. I'll likely make a lot of this out of aluminum tubing and a simple finned cooler mounted in front of the front bulkhead behind the grill - no fan. The aluminum retention blocks are custom - again "fun with machine tools"
im not a fan of the gm stuff in a toyota but damn that's some awesome work and a clean install
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- #57
Hey Roma- I am completely with you. I really wanted to try to stay with the "all Toyotas" but parts availability and overall costs couldn't get me there (as you'll see in the first post of this thread). So I wanted to make sure that the engine looks like it belongs and that the build quality is what one would expect from a "Factory Install" (and there's the whole thing I have being an owner/operator/engineer of high performance equipment at my work place I really cant help myself sometimes). Also, one has to remember that Toyota was given a US military contract in the 50's to build military " vehicles for the US army for the Korean conflict and that they utilized the basic design "footprint" of GM engine design and Dana axles- so, in a way, things go full circle.
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- #58
Some more details:
- the CDR valve on the NA 6.2 is mounted up on the intake manifold and....it....looks.....UGALLY. On the Sidewinder kit Banks places the output of the CDR on the intake of the turbo but downstream of the filter. I wanted to go with a "Cold Air" intake setup so I can draw cold air from both the front of the truck and from a snorkel:
The snorkel tube is run between the outer and inner fenders. I used the biggest K&N I could fit. The sound of air getting sucked through the snorkel is just the shizzle when the right side pedal goes down and the boost goes up.
More on the exhaust:
Here's the Borla muffler:
Here I used the stock Catalytic Conver/muffler support by building a stainless adapter:
The Duals run out just behind the rear wheels. Had to squeeze around the Man A Fre extended range tank:
- the CDR valve on the NA 6.2 is mounted up on the intake manifold and....it....looks.....UGALLY. On the Sidewinder kit Banks places the output of the CDR on the intake of the turbo but downstream of the filter. I wanted to go with a "Cold Air" intake setup so I can draw cold air from both the front of the truck and from a snorkel:
The snorkel tube is run between the outer and inner fenders. I used the biggest K&N I could fit. The sound of air getting sucked through the snorkel is just the shizzle when the right side pedal goes down and the boost goes up.
More on the exhaust:
Here's the Borla muffler:
Here I used the stock Catalytic Conver/muffler support by building a stainless adapter:
The Duals run out just behind the rear wheels. Had to squeeze around the Man A Fre extended range tank:
- Thread starter
- #59
Still on some details for folks to reflect on:
The drivers side to turbo cross over had to be customized to fit the Cruiser
Picture is sitting on its side down is to the right looking forward. Also note the block heater- I ran that in insulated loom to keep the conductor from deteriorating it is connected to a marine grade ship/shore connector from West MArine
The exhaust x-over squeezes between the pitman arm and the damper
The ARB Air locker needs a compressor. I mounted on the passenger side inner fender
Custom bracket for the compressor. All the wiring ( I still need that AC switch wire to be terminated) is behind the inner fender and runs into the WagonGear weather proof fuse/relay Box. I still need to plumb the AC lines- now that I have the the components in those should be straightforward
The drivers side to turbo cross over had to be customized to fit the Cruiser
Picture is sitting on its side down is to the right looking forward. Also note the block heater- I ran that in insulated loom to keep the conductor from deteriorating it is connected to a marine grade ship/shore connector from West MArine
The exhaust x-over squeezes between the pitman arm and the damper
The ARB Air locker needs a compressor. I mounted on the passenger side inner fender
Custom bracket for the compressor. All the wiring ( I still need that AC switch wire to be terminated) is behind the inner fender and runs into the WagonGear weather proof fuse/relay Box. I still need to plumb the AC lines- now that I have the the components in those should be straightforward
- Thread starter
- #60
The glow plug system was a little quandary- simple push and count 10 or 15 or 20 seconds then start or put in a glow plug controller that might fail on me on the trail. Sooo.... I did both
The controller is on the engine is the newer controller version that is common on the 6.5's. the simple student method with the "always going to start" solenoid is on the firewall. The two options were pretty straightforward and inexpensive to wire. I also took the vacuum pump out and replaced it with the California required speed sensor- I am using that via a tach cure to run a 4bt tachometer
I took out the choke, right? And used the "Choke" light as the "Glow" plug timer indicator. I used the blank switch plate to put in the manual glow actuation button - both work flawlessly. Should be handy when the engine is really cold and I need extra glow plug time (I upgraded all the GPS to handle this)
The Seat Belt warning lamp (Hate that thing) and the Brake lamp are replaced for the indicator lamps from the stanidyne fuel filter- one for "Change Fuel Filter" and "Water in Fuel"
Customized the center Consol to fit the EGT and Boost gauges
The controller is on the engine is the newer controller version that is common on the 6.5's. the simple student method with the "always going to start" solenoid is on the firewall. The two options were pretty straightforward and inexpensive to wire. I also took the vacuum pump out and replaced it with the California required speed sensor- I am using that via a tach cure to run a 4bt tachometer
I took out the choke, right? And used the "Choke" light as the "Glow" plug timer indicator. I used the blank switch plate to put in the manual glow actuation button - both work flawlessly. Should be handy when the engine is really cold and I need extra glow plug time (I upgraded all the GPS to handle this)
The Seat Belt warning lamp (Hate that thing) and the Brake lamp are replaced for the indicator lamps from the stanidyne fuel filter- one for "Change Fuel Filter" and "Water in Fuel"
Customized the center Consol to fit the EGT and Boost gauges