Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (1 Viewer)

[gnob]

looks great.
i like a darker bumper. i think white will show flaws and get beat from road debris.

 

[Broski]

DBL down on the Gun Metal Gray, I think it would look great with the white body !!

 

[aztoyman]

It'll be in white primer first so at least I'll have an idea how that would look. Keep in mind that it will most likely have to match my rear bumper and sliders. "Gun Metal" made me think of my favorite gun metal color. Colt Python Royal Blue. Hmm, might go well with my Midnight Blue interior. OR.....I can just get the Python and be done with the blue idea.

 

[bkg]

I’m almost always a fan of body color bumpers on everything. Makes it stand out from the usual aftermarket or DIY parts in a good way.

i am as well... on everything EXCEPT a white truck.

No idea why. White on white bothers me.

I think a charcoal would be interesting option.

 

[aztoyman]

Today is the wife's B-day plus it's raining so maybe I'll check out some paint colors at Homey Depot while she's looking at plants.
I briefly thought about using the galvanized looking silver like I did my frame. But quickly realized NONE of you guys would let me go wheeling with you if I did.

 

[aztoyman]

I got to looking at a LOT of trucks and I agree that white on white is not a good choice and I wont go there. I'm not going to waste my white epoxy primer either. Plus any chips will show the white primer under the dark color I decide on. I think the dark blue I used on my interior would actually look good over black epoxy. However it's too much money so I'm going to find a rattle can color I like. I saw a color I like and I need to test it out. I'll get back to the paint decision later.

I have SO much going on that I can't seem to find time for this project. It's killing me. I did get a few hours in over a couple days and made a little progress. I still need to pull the bumper to finish welding it but decided to wire the winch first. Well ,the battery cables. I still need to wire the on/off switch for the winch disconnect.

It's 2/0 cable, Magna Lug terminals crimped with a TEMCo crimper in my vise. Heat shrink with adhesive inside and some heat shrink sleeve for areas that need abrasion protection. It's all easy to get to and doesn't interfere with anything that might need to be removed for repairs or maintenance. Kept it away from the winch drum as much as possible.

 

[aztoyman]

I left enough slack to be able to unbolt the mount for all this stuff and get to the underside if I had to. I can attach everything with it mounted but it is a little more difficult.

The lug with no cable yet will be the ground back to the battery.

 

[aztoyman]

The two battery cables will run across the inner fender and down the shock tower to the frame rail and back to the battery box. All I got so far is the positive started back. I used black heat shrink on the negative cables and red for the positive.

 

[aztoyman]

I drove it out of the garage the other day and the brake pedal was bleeding down. It wasn't spongy but I bled the system again anyway. I adjusted up the rear shoes some as well. I didn't find any external leaks so I suspect the master cylinder. I thought I had replaced it since EVERYTHING else is new but I think it's the one I was running on my 88. I put it on WAY back about 2010 ish when I swapped T100 brakes on my truck. And I got that Master cylinder from a 2nd gen 4Runner in the boneyard with the dual diaphragm booster. I ordered an Advics unit from Rock Auto and it arrived today. I still need to install it.

 

[aztoyman]

I plugged away at running the battery cables back to the battery box. WAY more challenging and time consuming than you'd think. Originally I "thought" I could run the cables on top of the frame. Nope, too tight.

So I ran it down the shock tower to the frame rail. Then around the cab mount and away from all the heat from the converter. So I installed some Riv-Nuts and attached the cables to the inside of the rocker with Adel clamps. Then over the rear cross member to the battery box.

 

[aztoyman]

After seeing one of @Broski videos crossing Fordyce, I thought I better use booted grommets to prevent flooding my battery box. I can use clamps or zip ties to clamp it over the cables.

I still have more Adel clamps to install and I have heat sleeves to cover some areas of the cables yet. Plus I have boots for the terminals and abrasion guard heat shrink.

 

[aztoyman]

My hood scoop got delivered today too.

 

[gnob]

My hood scoop got delivered today too.

View attachment 3905912

View attachment 3905913

just saw this today. im obviously about the hood scoop. but this is a cool solution.

 

[aztoyman]

Well NOW you tell me!

 

[aztoyman]

1/8" wouldn't help me anyway. I jacked it up for more suspension clearance. Believe me, I considered it.

 

[gnob]

says he got 3/8" total. but ya.

 

[littlevulture]

That wiring is super clean man, hope mine looks half as good when I get to it.

That intake milling looks super cool, I might have to give it a shot before I pull my old 5ze just the see how it looks in the engine bay.

 

[Mudder]

That wiring is beautiful. I wish I had thought of red heat shrink for my positive cables. I also love how the front bumper came out. I can’t wait to see some action shots once this truck is going down the trails.

 

[aztoyman]

I hope I live long enough to get this on the trail.

 

[aztoyman]

So yesterday I pulled down the cables to add on the heat protection and replaced any sheet metal screws I used to secure the Adel clamps with 5mm screws and Riv-Nuts. I'm cleaning up the under hood wiring and had my stuff on a table at the edge of the garage.

I started out in the shade but the sun started to creep on to my table. This heat shrink specs say "shrinking temp minimum 257F". Check out how much the black pieces shrunk in the AZ sun.