Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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ntsqd
technerd
A little silicon bronze filler would probably get you there. Given the cost of that filler though you might come close to the replacement cost just from the filler consumption.........Funny you posted that. I JUST told my wife that I'll TIG it up before I pay $150 for that.
- Thread starter
- #1,643
Aluminum bronze TIG filler is about $40/pound. Silicon bronze $35/pound. I always think about what I would do if replacement parts are not available and I have to make this work. It's part of the fun/challenge and I'm not a production shop.
I first thought I would just weld on another piece. I can probably get away with building it up with steel filler. Or even running as is.
I first thought I would just weld on another piece. I can probably get away with building it up with steel filler. Or even running as is.
ntsqd
technerd
Last time I checked it locally it was a lot more than that, but thinking on it, it was also in the middle of the CV-19 shut-down when I checked.
Regardless of which filler rod, I'd build it up and then surface it back to the original thickness. The slop caused by the wear would drive my OCD crazy.
Regardless of which filler rod, I'd build it up and then surface it back to the original thickness. The slop caused by the wear would drive my OCD crazy.
- Thread starter
- #1,645
Yeah, online price for the filler. And yep, that gear gets to fly back and forth on the splined shaft between the fork. I don't like it either.
ntsqd
technerd
Past some point I bet that they don't.
Taiwanese clone(ish) with three (!) 8HP motors:
www.comeupwinch.com
There's an epoxy that has been used instead of concrete for block filling use. Some guys mix in a bunch of microspheres to reduce the weight.
Taiwanese clone(ish) with three (!) 8HP motors:
Blazer M3 - COMEUP INDUSTRIES INC. | Manufacturer of Premium Winches and Hoists
Blazer M2/M3 Competition winches were awarded the Taiwan Excellence 2021. Triple 8.0 hp 12V series wound motors for the ultimate in power and high speed line pull. Three submersible sealed contactors w/silver-alloy contact pads for proven reliability in extreme conditions. Rugged 3 stage s...
www.comeupwinch.com
There's an epoxy that has been used instead of concrete for block filling use. Some guys mix in a bunch of microspheres to reduce the weight.
Geez, the battery to run that.
ntsqd
technerd
Using that Blazer M3 means you need the Blaze M3 because it adds 300 pounds! Seriously - it's a 295 pound winch.
- Thread starter
- #1,651
I think you have to build your rig around the winch..... and batteries, and a generator.....
ntsqd
technerd
[SARCASM]Comps in other parts of the world will want a winch like that. We in the US prefer to just drive there. [/SARCASM] 
- Thread starter
- #1,653
Summit Racing ended up having the best price on the winch parts I need. I got the brake service kit and the lower housing service kit. I bought a Nachi 6203 2RS bearing from a bearing supplier so I got the parts I need for just over $150. I also bought a half cut pack of aluminum bronze TIG filler rod for $12 so I can build up the worn free spool shift fork.
It should all be here this Thurs but I'll be in the operating room getting my new shoulder. It'll be 6 weeks before I even start PT. I'm not one to sit still very long so that's going to be worse than the pain for me. I'm sure I'll be online bugging you guys at least.
It should all be here this Thurs but I'll be in the operating room getting my new shoulder. It'll be 6 weeks before I even start PT. I'm not one to sit still very long so that's going to be worse than the pain for me. I'm sure I'll be online bugging you guys at least.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- www.snlandcruisers.com
[SARCASM]Comps in other parts of the world will want a winch like that. We in the US prefer to just drive there. [/SARCASM]
PTO powered winches, run from a PTO pump wins most of the overseas winch challenges. They never get hot and don’t need no power.
There was/is some guys in England that built one, mid-chassis mount on a Volvo 6x6 set up for racing. Absolutely fastest winch I have ever seen, crazy fast and super strong. They go by “The Flying Spanners” if anyone wants to look them up.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #1,655
Ok, I'm kinda, sorta back. I just started PT on my shoulder and I'm still VERY limited on what I can do. I'm going to try to at least get my winch built. I have everything I need to start going together with it.
I did try to fix my free spool shaft by TIG brazing it with the aluminum bronze filler rod. It was actually easy to do and it's pretty tough stuff. However, it turns out it was worn more than I realized and the detent groove on the shaft has heavy corrosion so I decided to replace it. I ALMOST ordered one. I decided I'm so bored, I'm going to try to make one.
I used a 3/8 Caterpillar bolt and I found a big washer that was perfect. I chucked the washer in the lathe and bored the center hole to 1" and cut it in half. Then I shaped it in my mini mill.
I did try to fix my free spool shaft by TIG brazing it with the aluminum bronze filler rod. It was actually easy to do and it's pretty tough stuff. However, it turns out it was worn more than I realized and the detent groove on the shaft has heavy corrosion so I decided to replace it. I ALMOST ordered one. I decided I'm so bored, I'm going to try to make one.
I used a 3/8 Caterpillar bolt and I found a big washer that was perfect. I chucked the washer in the lathe and bored the center hole to 1" and cut it in half. Then I shaped it in my mini mill.
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- Thread starter
- #1,656
The original was thin which allows the gear on the motor shaft to really have a LOT of end play.
Also the shaft detent(s) position pushed the gear up on the taper of the motor shaft splines making it wedge on and difficult to pull it into free spool. IDK if it did this on the original motor though.
The fork also pushed against the large gear face which was wearing the fork.
So before I cut the detents in the shaft, I positioned the gear and fork properly. The gears fully aligned and I left clearance between the fork and large gear.
When it was pulled back to free spool, the small gear was butted up to the aluminum casting boss on the retainer plate. I think it's designed to do so but I cut the detent to leave a small gap. I don't turn on the motor in free spool but if I did it would chew up the casting.
I also decided to cut the O-ring groove for the shaft seal closer to the end. I thought since these are notorious for corroding and seizing, it might minimize that by allowing more oil in the bore.
This goofy idea took me ALL day. I did mention I was bored. And you know I'm cheap.
Oh, I originally shaped the fork part of it like the original part but it doesn't clear the case bore when you have to remove it. So I rounded the back. It can now be pulled straight out.
Also the shaft detent(s) position pushed the gear up on the taper of the motor shaft splines making it wedge on and difficult to pull it into free spool. IDK if it did this on the original motor though.
The fork also pushed against the large gear face which was wearing the fork.
So before I cut the detents in the shaft, I positioned the gear and fork properly. The gears fully aligned and I left clearance between the fork and large gear.
When it was pulled back to free spool, the small gear was butted up to the aluminum casting boss on the retainer plate. I think it's designed to do so but I cut the detent to leave a small gap. I don't turn on the motor in free spool but if I did it would chew up the casting.
I also decided to cut the O-ring groove for the shaft seal closer to the end. I thought since these are notorious for corroding and seizing, it might minimize that by allowing more oil in the bore.
This goofy idea took me ALL day. I did mention I was bored. And you know I'm cheap.
Oh, I originally shaped the fork part of it like the original part but it doesn't clear the case bore when you have to remove it. So I rounded the back. It can now be pulled straight out.
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- Thread starter
- #1,657
I picked up a bag of #12 glass beads for my blast cabinet today and got the aluminum castings cleaned up. They look great.
The day before my surgery I cleaned the drum, hit it with 80 grit paper on the DA sander and put on two good coats of epoxy primer. It's some tough stuff so I may just leave it as is. The rope will cover it anyway.
So I plan on going together with it tomorrow.
The day before my surgery I cleaned the drum, hit it with 80 grit paper on the DA sander and put on two good coats of epoxy primer. It's some tough stuff so I may just leave it as is. The rope will cover it anyway.
So I plan on going together with it tomorrow.
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- Thread starter
- #1,658
The drum end plate cleaned up nice but it had a pretty heavy step worn into the bushing bore. The new bushing wasn't as tight as it should be and I wanted to do the grease zerk mod. The bushing can't be spinning. I thought about using TIG to fill it and turn it in my lathe. F that. There's a small chip out of it too that I could probably TIG. Nah, I ain't feeling it. I'm not buying a new one either so I drilled and tapped the bolt holes for zerks and drilled ports into the bushing for grease, then JB Welded the bushing in. I've been running this winch for a long time like this and I'm sure it will keep on running.
- Thread starter
- #1,659
I made new winch motor cables from some #2 AWG welding cable. It's got 2,548 strands of copper so it's super flexible. I bought some Magna Lug connectors, some double thick shrink tube with sealer and crimped them on with a TEMCO hammer type crimper. (I used my press.) I don't have one of the high dollar crimpers.
I think I already mentioned the Albright contactor and the 9.5 XP motor. I hooked it up to a battery and all is well.
I think I already mentioned the Albright contactor and the 9.5 XP motor. I hooked it up to a battery and all is well.
- Thread starter
- #1,660
My solenoid cover looks like hell. I will probably pick up a new one.....one of these days. The super long hose clamps holding the box on bugged me so I trimmed them up. It's done and ready to go otherwise.
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