Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (1 Viewer)

[aztoyman]

I appreciate the feedback. I have no idea how much, if any air is in a gas engine return. I did see on Holley site that they recommend the return tube in a certain location ABOVE the sock but they were talking about Hydromat. I was thinking about clamping the tube near the end of the pump body in the pic and bending the end of the tube away from the inlet.

I have some space on the bottom of the cover I can weld a strut to for extra pump support.

I never thought about a cooler. Ambient temps in the 100's here get the fuel hot as is. Makes sense returning from a hot engine would make it worse.

 

[aztoyman]

Interesting video I just watched.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's a look inside my fuel tank. The tray is similar to the OEM one. This one only has two small channels with small holes in the bottom. Otherwise fuel has to come over the top. I understand the recommendation for the return being as far from the pump as possible in many applications but not this one.

I get on some really steep climbs so I am going to prioritize keeping the tray full of fuel over heated fuel. Aeration shouldn't be an issue with a low point return. The best I could do is put the return 4" away from the pump inlet. It's not difficult to make a new pipe if I need to.
You can see the baffles dividing the tank into 3 sections.

 

[aztoyman]

Adding a strut for more support is going to be difficult. Not much space left. If I find a piece of stainless rod...... maybe I could weld it on.

Here's my final setup. It's actually pretty rigid since both tubes are tied together. I need to get some more safety wire so I can replace the zip tie. It looks as strong or stronger than the one that can be purchased for this tank.

I probably won't get back on this until after Christmas.

 

[ntsqd]

If you don't already have one of these tools, get one: Clamptite Tools - https://clamptitetools.com/ They are way more effective at creating a clamp from safety wire than trying to do it with traditional safety wire pliers. I now carry one along the trad pliers and a 1 lbs. spool of .032" wire in each off-road tool kit, just in case.

 

[aztoyman]

Somebody posted up about the Clamptite tools on this forum last year I think. Maybe it was you. I had never heard of it before but wanted to get one after I saw some videos. The prices are pretty high for what they are. I've had one in my cart for a while but never placed the order. What size would be best for our typical trail fixes?

 

[ntsqd]

It probably was me. They are not inexpensive, but I'd have more in just my time sorting out making my own. This is what I own:
Standard ClampTite Tool – Clamptite Tools - https://clamptitetools.com/product/standard-clamptite-tool-clt05/ My first one cost $19.95, almost 20 years ago.

 

[Broski]

It probably was me. They are not inexpensive, but I'd have more in just my time sorting out making my own. This is what I own:
Standard ClampTite Tool – Clamptite Tools - https://clamptitetools.com/product/standard-clamptite-tool-clt05/ My first one cost $19.95, almost 20 years ago.

Ordered, I stepped up one to the stainless steel model because my proximity to the beach

 

[ntsqd]

They're a little tricky to use at first, but after a couple tries it gets easier. Hopefully they still include a sample on a stiff piece of tubing with the tool as seeing one finished goes a long ways. They use a wire nut to hold the tails on the far side of the tool body, I just spin them a few turns with the safety wire pliers. I don't use it all that often, but when I do need it there often isn't anything else that will work as well. Like I've mentioned, I carry one of these tools, a spool of wire, and a pair of safety wire pliers in each off-road vehicle instead of a range of hose clamps.

When making a clamp on a hose you can push the trimmed ends down into the hose itself. Doing this makes the clamp WAY more friendly to your hands. I now never use hose clamps on repaired garden hoses as these clamps are much, much nicer to handle.

 

[aztoyman]

I ordered a couple sets of headlights from the local dealership a few months ago after seeing a thread in the 40 section here. The kits were only $16 and change. They include all the relays, fuse holders and the wire harness but they come with 7" round housings and this truck needs rectangular ones.

Santa left these housings under the tree so it's going to work out perfectly.

I put one set of the round lights on another truck. I have an extra set of the round 7" Koito glass housings if anyone wants to trade for a set of rectangular ones.

He also left a set of ARP knuckle studs.

I hope everyone had a nice Christmas.

 

[Beams37]

I ordered a couple sets of headlights from the local dealership a few months ago after seeing a thread in the 40 section here. The kits were only $16 and change. They include all the relays, fuse holders and the wire harness but they come with 7" round housings and this truck needs rectangular ones.

Santa left these housings under the tree so it's going to work out perfectly.

I put one set of the round lights on another truck. I have an extra set of the round 7" Koito glass housings if anyone wants to trade for a set of rectangular ones.

He also left a set of ARP knuckle studs.

I hope everyone had a nice Christmas.

Ok. So this raises the question ... Can I swap out my square lights for a round set? I assume I would have to fabricate round headlight buckets and then find round headlight trim. Right?

 

[ntsqd]

I thought 83's were the only year of the first gens that had rectangular headlights?

FWIW I ran those large rectangular Hella H4 lens/reflector assemblies in Patch for decades. If you are really super picky there might be better light distribution available in a 7" round lens/reflector, but those Hella rectangular assemblies are pretty good. I ran mine with Hella 55/100 bulbs in them. Legal wattage on the lows with extra punch for those dark desert highways.

 

[aztoyman]

@Beams37 , I have seen threads where guys swapped round and rectangle headlights but I don't know the details. I would think the radiator support would have to be swapped or the area where the lights are got swapped. There is the shape of the hole and the plastic inserts to consider, plus the spring attachment for the adjuster screws and such.

I also saw one website selling the 200mm rectangular euro spec Koito made glass housings. I think they were around $85 per housing.

 

[gnob]

i want to get some hella housings but ive been getting brighted a lot lately so maybe I don't need them.

 

[ntsqd]

IME a good lens allows you to run more wattage without getting flashed. Or can run them at a higher adjustment without that happening. Either way you get more light on the road or trail without making people mad. I use cinder block walls to align my headlights, nice vertical & horizontal lines known to be reasonably level for easy reference.

 

[gnob]

IME a good lens allows you to run more wattage without getting flashed. Or can run them at a higher adjustment without that happening. Either way you get more light on the road or trail without making people mad. I use cinder block walls to align my headlights, nice vertical & horizontal lines known to be reasonably level for easy reference.

ya. im turned up so i can drive faster than 40 on low beam.

 

[ntsqd]

H4's are usually the very first mod that I make to any vehicle that will accept them.

 

[aztoyman]

I just read reviews. Hopefully these were a good choice. IDK much about headlights but I do know my stock ones aren't adequate.

 

[bkg]

I thought 83's were the only year of the first gens that had rectangular headlights?

FWIW I ran those large rectangular Hella H4 lens/reflector assemblies in Patch for decades. If you are really super picky there might be better light distribution available in a 7" round lens/reflector, but those Hella rectangular assemblies are pretty good. I ran mine with Hella 55/100 bulbs in them. Legal wattage on the lows with extra punch for those dark desert highways.

82 and 83.

 

[aztoyman]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas and started into the new year on a positive note.

I had family from out of state and good times so not much time for this build. I was definitely anxious to get back on it though.

I noticed my E- brake cable pulling tight whenever I cycled the suspension. The hose clamp holding it to the lower link wasn't going to work.

I found this bracket in my parts stash and modified it to attach to a piece of 1/8" steel I bent to clamp it to the lower link. It holds the cable higher and inline where it wants to be. It also floats instead of being clamped solid.

It's all I got done and I still need to paint it.