Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (9 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I didn't get to work on the truck at all on Saturday and just a short time on Sunday. My poor 88 looks like something at the Pic-n-Pull.

I got the hard lines off and it turns out that I can't really use them anymore. Sections of them are good as is but some sections need too much work re-bending them.

I just need to bend up some new ones. I can use these as a model for the firewall section of the lines.

 

[aztoyman]

I have enough NiCopp tubing to make the clutch hydraulic line. Seems simple enough. It's a bit harder to fabricate now that the engine is installed. I grabbed what I could off the 88 that mounts to the firewall and put them on. I don't want to have to re-make the lines because I forgot to mount something.

Once again I took way too long (Most of the day) to make a seemingly easy line. AND I still have two brake lines to make. At least I have a plan now.

The clutch line is a more tucked in version of stock. It doesn't interfere with access to some other components like stock did. I used the OEM line clamps and made one bracket to mount a bulkhead fitting.

Turns out that I don't need to use a banjo fitting on the slave cylinder. I got lucky and used one of the front brake lines. I took it off just to test fit and it was a perfect fit.

I didn't have any heat related issues with the hose near the exhaust on the 88. I might make a tin shield for the exhaust elbow or just slide some heat sleeve over the hose if it needs protection.

I ordered more NiCopp tubing and a couple more hose ends so waiting on parts. My wheel spacers are supposed to be here tomorrow.

 

[aztoyman]

I tried various ways to mount my steering cooler. The way I had it on my 88 really is the best way so it's going back between the radiator and the A/C condenser.

My OEM condenser still works but I'm going to try a newer replacement that's a parallel flow type. I'm thinking it may be better for the R134A and possibly lower the high side pressure. Something I just want to try. If I don't like the non OEM fit, I can always return it and just put this one back on.

Not sure what I need to do to get the A/C lines around the shock tower yet. I'll know better once I mockup the box into the cab.

 

[aztoyman]

A while back I thought I saw a post in this mini truck section of MUDD where he used a newer parallel flow type evaporator out of a Supra or something for his truck. If any of you have seen it please post the link if you can.

 

[aztoyman]

@ntsqd told me about the company SendCutSend to get my wheel spacers made. The spacers cost almost half the price of two bare pieces of steel at my local supplier.

They got here yesterday.

 

[aztoyman]

After the $hitty tolerances on the laser cut brake brackets, I was a little concerned so I ordered with specs that allowed me to machine them to final size.
They actually probably would have been fine as is now that I see them. Here's a couple pics of the edges.

And a couple of one as received and the other after I turned the ID, OD on the lathe and enlarged the bolt holes. The .500" holes were actually good for the studs but too small for the extended shanks on the studs I'm using. I used a 35/64" drill that was perfect for the shanks.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's one installed. Nice snug, slip fit. It looks larger than the rotor surface in the pic but it's actually the same exact OD.

 

[88repo]

Good looking parts.

You by chance happen to check flatness? Notice any increase in hardness on the lasered cuts?

Was all set to use SCS awhile back until I found out their tolerance on flatness. Still on the fence.

 

[aztoyman]

I'd have to stick in back on the lathe and put an indicator on it. Just watching it spin I saw no wobble but I did on the aluminum spacer that I had run for years on my 88.

I know they listed tolerance for cut for each thickness and I think there was a spec for the "bevel" (I think) The edges would not be a perfect 90 degree wall but could have some slope. That's why I turned mine in the lathe.

As far as flat, it looks ok. I'll maybe check tomorrow. I just picked my dog up from the vet. Had surgery this morning.

 

[Broski]

I'd have to stick in back on the lathe and put an indicator on it. Just watching it spin I saw no wobble but I did on the aluminum spacer that I had run for years on my 88.

I know they listed tolerance for cut for each thickness and I think there was a spec for the "bevel" (I think) The edges would not be a perfect 90 degree wall but could have some slope. That's why I turned mine in the lathe.

As far as flat, it looks ok. I'll maybe check tomorrow. I just picked my dog up from the vet. Had surgery this morning.

I hope the pup has a fast recovery

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks Broski, me too. Our oldest Golden (11) just had a couple teeth pulled and a cleaning. None of our dogs ever had bad teeth but we adopted this guy when he was 7.

 

[aztoyman]

@88repo, as far as hardness it's definitely super hard at the edge of the cut on one side. The opposite side from the laser.

Drilling the holes larger is easy as long as you drill from the soft side toward the hard side. No damage to my tools.

I had to use a sander or grinder and get through the slag or whatever it's called with laser cuts. Otherwise it just smoked my lathe bit. Once that thin layer is gone it cuts like normal steel.

I don't have an industrial lathe or mill. I use HSS tools, not carbide.

 

[ntsqd]

That little 'tab' or whatever you want to call it is the start/stop point. They could eliminate it by over-lapping the ramp-in / ramp-out ends and starts on the desired profile, but that probably costs machine time and might result in more "blow-out" (like an oxy-fuel cut can do). Some of my more complicated parts have several of them. I'm guessing that is the result of how they were nested with everyone else's parts made from that plate.

Flatness is going to be whatever the plate's flatness is. The studs will draw it down fairly flat, even at that thickness. The parallelism could be a concern, but again short of facing the material yourself none in the supply chain excepting the plate mfg itself has much control over that.

Glad that they look to be working as hoped.

 

[aztoyman]

I'm happy with the parts and the process for ordering was easy. The communication was excellent. I would order from them again.

I think these spacers would have been ready to run out of the box if I used appropriate dimensions.

I intentionally got them slightly oversized so I could have machined surfaces.

 

[aztoyman]

I got some parts I've been waiting for and still waiting on some others. So I plugged away on bending up my brake lines. I've made a few brake lines over the years but I never plumbed an entire vehicle.

This NiCopp brake tubing really is pretty easy to work with but it was still quite the challenge for me to run 3 lines "nested" against each other across the firewall. Figuring out the tube routing from the master cylinder to the adjustable proportioning valve, down and around the shock tower and the steering column. Across the firewall bent around the heater lines. Then down and under, avoiding the A/C lines and the condensate drain. I terminated to 2 bulkhead fittings secured by a bracket I made. It bolts to existing threaded holes in the frame. I also had to re-make my bracket for the clutch line. I had to move that fitting over and forward to make way for the brake lines to also clamp there.

The line from the bulkhead fitting back to the rear brakes was pretty straight forward. I used the OEM line clamps to secure it to the inner frame rail. I made a hose to connect from the hard line to the one on the rear upper link so the rear brakes are plumbed. I cycled the suspension to confirm no rubbing or problems with the hose. I forgot to get a pic of the rear frame line. I'm still waiting on a fitting and more of the stainless spiral cover for the tubing. Once I get that I should be able to finish the lines to the front brakes and hopefully test it for leaks.

This took me a few days. Doesn't look like it should have. I gotta give props to those that do this with stainless tube. No way I'd even try.

Gotta have pics so here ya go.

 

[aztoyman]

More pics

 

[aztoyman]

Once the clutch line was bent and clamped to the the firewall, I just had to copy it. Sounds easy enough but I really struggled with it. The benefit of the easy bend made it difficult as well because it bent under it's own weight while I was trying to form the next line alongside the first one.

I ended up forming the section from the master cylinder first by copying a piece of TIG wire. Made a mark where the two tubes would start parallel. Then had to pull the master and booster out of the way. Unclamped the clutch line from the firewall and removed it. Then I slowly bent the next tube against the original (clutch) line. I did it on a table and used electrical tape to keep it in place as I went along. I had to put it in my vise and use a handful of small needle nose Vise-Grips to keep it nested properly. Kinda kicked my a$$ but I finally got it right.

 

[aztoyman]

I'm running the spiral guard on all the lines except under the hood. I'm waiting for it to arrive and some more AN tube nuts and I should be able to finish the brake lines. Hopefully no leaks when I'm done.

I decided on the Tanks Inc 16 gallon steel fuel tank. Once it gets here I can get that mounted and figure out the fuel system.

 

[Beams37]

I think you're being a little hard on yourself. Lines look great !!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I moved away from Nicop under the chassis. Too frail and would kink if snagged in brush!