- Thread starter
- #1,381
I swapped the fitting on the end of the hose and it's a perfect fit. I like it tucked in like this better than the way I had it. I can't leak check it until I get the cab back on.
Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,382
I'm going to keep a set of the hoses I had in case I ever have to swap on a new caliper. Once I smooth out the surface for the banjo fittings I can use either setup.
- Thread starter
- #1,383
I also swapped in the ARP knuckle studs. Still need to do the driver side.
Purty
- Thread starter
- #1,385
Today was shot in the shoulder in the morning and then go pick up the man-lift so I could trim trees. The weather turned to cold rainy and super windy so I wasn't up in the air today.
FedEx delivered my hose ends for the fuel lines and I got that done at least. Sorry no pics yet.
I did look at using a banjo fitting for the clutch slave since I still have that stuff on the bench. Looks like I have that option on the slave if I want. The slave has a copper or brass insert so no leak with the steel AN adapter like in the calipers. I did get pics of that. There's 3 different grit credit card diamond hones in the pic. Worked great to smooth the seal surface. And a comparison of the two different hose ends.
FedEx delivered my hose ends for the fuel lines and I got that done at least. Sorry no pics yet.
I did look at using a banjo fitting for the clutch slave since I still have that stuff on the bench. Looks like I have that option on the slave if I want. The slave has a copper or brass insert so no leak with the steel AN adapter like in the calipers. I did get pics of that. There's 3 different grit credit card diamond hones in the pic. Worked great to smooth the seal surface. And a comparison of the two different hose ends.
- Thread starter
- #1,386
I had to go back out in the garage so I snapped a few pics of the fuel lines. That 90 degree fitting at the shock tower was supposed to be a 45. They were out of stock so this will suffice until I swap in a 45 later on. The loose line is the vent line just hanging out.
Is that return line in its final configuration? I would be concerned that under heavy engine torque (i.e stuck in rocks in 4 low) you don't have enough flex area in the line and the hard line will be forced to flex. Everything else looks stellar.
- Thread starter
- #1,388
Good observation. I wondered about that. I used a steel line like this on my 88 but I had a cable hooked on the engine on the driver side limiting movement. I may have to rethink it.
- Thread starter
- #1,389
I've been trying to get caught up on home projects. Still plenty to do but the weather turned cold, windy and rainy today. So I installed the ARP knuckle studs on the driver side and worked on my fuel tank mount hopefully for the last time. Version 3.0 was still not really done. It's too nasty out to paint the bracket so I cut and bent new straps. The originals were cut up and welded twice and still weren't quite right. Plus the rubber strips have been stuck on and ripped off too many times.
Anyway, I'm happy with it. Everything is easy to get to. I can pull the bed (if needed) and not disturb the fuel system now. Front straps tuck under to clear the bed floor.
I have more parts on the way. I'll get back on this soon.... hopefully.
Anyway, I'm happy with it. Everything is easy to get to. I can pull the bed (if needed) and not disturb the fuel system now. Front straps tuck under to clear the bed floor.
I have more parts on the way. I'll get back on this soon.... hopefully.
- Thread starter
- #1,390
I'm kinda sorta caught up on chores I let go all last year. Enough that I am going to get back on my build at least.
So I got my fuel tank bracket painted and repainted the areas I welded stuff to. Installed it all hopefully for good. Here's some pics. If anybody sees a problem with it lie to me. I'm tired of dealing with the fuel tank.
So I got my fuel tank bracket painted and repainted the areas I welded stuff to. Installed it all hopefully for good. Here's some pics. If anybody sees a problem with it lie to me. I'm tired of dealing with the fuel tank.
- Thread starter
- #1,391
Now I'm on to my least favorite part of the build, bodywork. Probably because I've never done it. Time to learn I guess.
I messed with the big bump I put in the roof when it fell off my rigging. I put a bunch of blocking on the cab floor to support a screw type stand (that is really meant to steady RV slide outs) and cranked it up to hold a dolly underneath. I tried to slowly tap the bump down but it's a weird shape and the steel is pretty rigid. So I got the torch out and at least made some progress on it. I have more to do on it. I just wanted to see what I was up against. Area I circled.
Then I took a better look at the whole cab. Yikes
I have to decide how much work I want to put into bodywork. I really don't want it to look like a beater but I also don't want to be block sanding for who knows how long on a crawler. I'll find out how OCD I really am soon.
I messed with the big bump I put in the roof when it fell off my rigging. I put a bunch of blocking on the cab floor to support a screw type stand (that is really meant to steady RV slide outs) and cranked it up to hold a dolly underneath. I tried to slowly tap the bump down but it's a weird shape and the steel is pretty rigid. So I got the torch out and at least made some progress on it. I have more to do on it. I just wanted to see what I was up against. Area I circled.
Then I took a better look at the whole cab. Yikes
I have to decide how much work I want to put into bodywork. I really don't want it to look like a beater but I also don't want to be block sanding for who knows how long on a crawler. I'll find out how OCD I really am soon.
- Thread starter
- #1,392
Here's some more pics of the roof and the driver side along side the rear window. These dents all have structure behind them so I can't get a dolly under them. I know a stud welder would work but I don't have one. Maybe filler, maybe paint as is??
My main concern right now is get it in primer and paint the bottom and engine bay so I can get it on the frame.
My main concern right now is get it in primer and paint the bottom and engine bay so I can get it on the frame.
ntsqd
technerd
The shrinking that I've seen done was done with small spots. I wonder if you could ideally use a TIG to heat a small spot and then shrink it, repeat ad nauseum? Youtube University has got to have some tutorials on how to do this.
Fuel setup looks really good. Clean work as usual.
- Thread starter
- #1,395
Thanks all for still following along, the kind words and your input. Youtube is definitely in my future.
My next goal is to get this running so I am trying to knock out the rest of the metal work on the cab that HAS to get done now. I cut and rolled the edges of the inner fenders for a little more shock clearance. I needed more room for getting to the adjuster rings. I removed a couple broken bolts and used heat and a ballpeen hammer to make room for the hose on my steering box. I saw that I need to trim the back of the cab edge that hangs down over the battery box cable openings and other small items that will be a big issue to deal with once the cab goes back on.
I followed many builds where the bodywork and paint was complete and followed by final assembly. Doing it that way would really delay getting this running so that's why I'm only getting it in epoxy with paint on the bottom and engine bay. If I was doing a restoration type build it would be different.
So I have a LOT of sanding and scuffing to get busy on. The temps here are ramping up.
My next goal is to get this running so I am trying to knock out the rest of the metal work on the cab that HAS to get done now. I cut and rolled the edges of the inner fenders for a little more shock clearance. I needed more room for getting to the adjuster rings. I removed a couple broken bolts and used heat and a ballpeen hammer to make room for the hose on my steering box. I saw that I need to trim the back of the cab edge that hangs down over the battery box cable openings and other small items that will be a big issue to deal with once the cab goes back on.
I followed many builds where the bodywork and paint was complete and followed by final assembly. Doing it that way would really delay getting this running so that's why I'm only getting it in epoxy with paint on the bottom and engine bay. If I was doing a restoration type build it would be different.
So I have a LOT of sanding and scuffing to get busy on. The temps here are ramping up.
The quality and attention to detail in this build has been amazing. I’m excited to see the finished result! Body work is definitely a different animal, I give the guys who love doing it props because it is tedious.
I think something like this (which I believe you’ve already mentioned) would work well on the dents with structure behind them and it seems fairly cheap.
www.harborfreight.com
I think something like this (which I believe you’ve already mentioned) would work well on the dents with structure behind them and it seems fairly cheap.
Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit
Amazing deals on this Stud Welder Dent Repair Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
IMHO for a rock crawler good from far but far from good on the bodywork is fine or in other words looks good from 10 feet.
With the talent you have displayed through the rest of this build I’m sure you can handle it just fine. It’s not rocket science unless you’re trying to build a show car.
With the talent you have displayed through the rest of this build I’m sure you can handle it just fine. It’s not rocket science unless you’re trying to build a show car.
Are you going to give it a little skim coat also before paint? If so, after you tap most of those out a bit by hand and prime and skim it, they're going to be very minor on a crawler build like this.
- Thread starter
- #1,400
@AgentOrange I'll probable do some minor filler work because I agree with @Broski.
@gnob You ain't kidding about the paintless dent guys. My wife bought a 98 4Runner from a dealership that got nailed in a really bad hail storm. The entire top of the truck looked like it got bombed by golf balls. They sold it cheap, put in new glass said they would pay for the dent repair and sent it over. I thought it would take weeks and need paint. It didn't take long, didn't get paint and I couldn't see any dents. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it.
You're gonna see my dent repairs.
@gnob You ain't kidding about the paintless dent guys. My wife bought a 98 4Runner from a dealership that got nailed in a really bad hail storm. The entire top of the truck looked like it got bombed by golf balls. They sold it cheap, put in new glass said they would pay for the dent repair and sent it over. I thought it would take weeks and need paint. It didn't take long, didn't get paint and I couldn't see any dents. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it.
You're gonna see my dent repairs.
