85 FJ60 Full Float Axle
- Thread starter BGarcia88FJ62
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BGarcia88FJ62
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Hey Folks pardon my ignorance but is this a sealing surface on this axle shaft? Thanks
Yes, that's where the seal lip contacts.
So how loud was the stereo that you didn't hear 3' of steel launching from your truck? But proof of
why FF is better than SF.
why FF is better than SF.
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Looking like we are working out a great solution to those that want spare shafts for their FJ60 FF axles.
80 FF long side shaft is only about a 1/8" longer then 60 FF long side. and has plenty of spline length to cut a little off the end.
60 FF short side is the same as 40/70 FF and that one is readily available.
but issues like hard to find consumables like an axle shaft, are why I went with a $100 FZJ80 axle instead of a $1K 60 FF
(aside from the discs and extra width)
80 FF long side shaft is only about a 1/8" longer then 60 FF long side. and has plenty of spline length to cut a little off the end.
60 FF short side is the same as 40/70 FF and that one is readily available.
but issues like hard to find consumables like an axle shaft, are why I went with a $100 FZJ80 axle instead of a $1K 60 FF
(aside from the discs and extra width)
Last edited:
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In case anyone is interested in what one of these repairs looks like... Ben shipped me his hubs to fix the dowels and broken studs on the one hub and enlarge the fasteners on both hubs from M8 to 7/16" (This is a service I've offered for awhile and do a pair about every two months). For those keeping stock sized hardware just buy a new hub from @cruiseroutfit for about $250.
As received, note the raised area where the hardened dowels pushed the softer hub material up as they were ripped out:
Chucked up in the lathe to recut the gasket surface, the sides of the hub were actually pushed out near the dowels, this was also fixed:
Note the shiny area:
Finished product, two new OEM dowels in a new position (no reason to bother trying to weld and re drill the original holes), bolt holes enlarged to 7/16-20 and drilled about 0.25" deeper. The bolts I spec are ARP 753-1500. The little nick at 8-oclock is from poor aim with the sledge while hammering the dowel in,
As received, note the raised area where the hardened dowels pushed the softer hub material up as they were ripped out:
Chucked up in the lathe to recut the gasket surface, the sides of the hub were actually pushed out near the dowels, this was also fixed:
Note the shiny area:
Finished product, two new OEM dowels in a new position (no reason to bother trying to weld and re drill the original holes), bolt holes enlarged to 7/16-20 and drilled about 0.25" deeper. The bolts I spec are ARP 753-1500. The little nick at 8-oclock is from poor aim with the sledge while hammering the dowel in,
Nice work foo
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
In case anyone is interested in what one of these repairs looks like... Ben shipped me his hubs to fix the dowels and broken studs on the one hub and enlarge the fasteners on both hubs from M8 to 7/16" (This is a service I've offered for awhile and do a pair about every two months). For those keeping stock sized hardware just buy a new hub from @cruiseroutfit for about $250.
As received, note the raised area where the hardened dowels pushed the softer hub material up as they were ripped out:
View attachment 2929378View attachment 2929379
Chucked up in the lathe to recut the gasket surface, the sides of the hub were actually pushed out near the dowels, this was also fixed:
View attachment 2929382
Note the shiny area:
View attachment 2929380
Finished product, two new OEM dowels in a new position (no reason to bother trying to weld and re drill the original holes), bolt holes enlarged to 7/16-20 and drilled about 0.25" deeper. The bolts I spec are ARP 753-1500. The little nick at 8-oclock is from poor aim with the sledge while hammering the dowel in,
View attachment 2929381
I copied cruisermatt several years ago on what he did here and the hardware. We run a FF80 in the back of a 4600 class desert car and it's held up great. In addition I run red locktite, Nordlocks and safety wire. Give it zero chances to get loose.
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
Oh yeah we have had issues with stock shafts and Nitros and had to go to an RCV.
If you go the RCV route you will need an end mill to take the drive flange holes to 7/16". RCV stuff is super hard and even the best drill bits won't touch it.
If you go the RCV route you will need an end mill to take the drive flange holes to 7/16". RCV stuff is super hard and even the best drill bits won't touch it.
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Actually if you tell RCV about the bigger bolts when ordering they will do it for you free of charge, at least they did for @spyduh
EDIT not free.
Last edited:
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
Excellent to know! I was in a rush when I discovered my nitro twist and didn't even ask, thought I could just zip through with a drill bit like I had done on the stock and nitro stuff. Wrong!
Nitro Twisties.
Wasn't free and had to pay for the machine work. But its worth it!
I mailed mine back to them to get drilled out and bought another set too for spares. You'll need to call in and request exactly what you want done. Took a few weeks to turn around the custom flanges. However, you still get to retain the factory lifetime RCV warranty going this route as they laser engrave a serial number on it for this mod.
BGarcia88FJ62
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Update on repairs:
Matt did great work on my hubs as noted above. I'll have to contact RCV on the 7/16 ARP Hardware to get the proper size holes drilled in the flanges.
Checked backlash marked the caps and adjusters on the carrier before disassembly. Harrop went in just new carrier bearings and races reassembled everything
Backlash is on point tooth pattern is good. Original marks don't match up but everything checks out. I'm running it!
Matt did great work on my hubs as noted above. I'll have to contact RCV on the 7/16 ARP Hardware to get the proper size holes drilled in the flanges.
Checked backlash marked the caps and adjusters on the carrier before disassembly. Harrop went in just new carrier bearings and races reassembled everything
Backlash is on point tooth pattern is good. Original marks don't match up but everything checks out. I'm running it!
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 581
- Messages
- 16,338
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Update on repairs:
Matt did great work on my hubs as noted above. I'll have to contact RCV on the 7/16 ARP Hardware to get the proper size holes drilled in the flanges.
Checked backlash marked the caps and adjusters on the carrier before disassembly. Harrop went in just new carrier bearings and races reassembled everything
Backlash is on point tooth pattern is good. Original marks don't match up but everything checks out. I'm running it!
View attachment 2931274
I would just run stock toyota shafts. I don’t think you will break one. I still haven’t with V8, 120:1 gearing and I am not easy on stuff on stuff.
Like we found you can get a 80 long-side (common) and keep the other as a spare.
BGarcia88FJ62
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Yea, the problem is it took me 3 weeks to find a short side shaft and it was in Alberta Canada so I'll use the OEM shafts till the RCV's are produced
then at least I'll have the Lifetime Guarantee and a set of spares.
