'84 A/C leak question (1 Viewer)

[robcgray]

Is there any point in using the recharge refrigerant that has the stop leak additive?

Is 8-10 months too fast compared to other user's experience? Maybe I need to have an A/C guy find and repair the leak?

My A/C was converted to R134 early 2022. By November (maybe 8-10 months later), the refrigerant had leaked down enough to stop working due to low pressure. I refilled tonight, once I realized the pressure circuit was open, and it's working well. I read in another thread that leak down is fairly common converting R12 to R134 due to the smaller R134 molecule.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[Dekeman]

Could just be a bad o-ring somewhere. Easy to change them all out on a deflated system. Well, except for the ones on the evap, but still not that bad.
Did you change your drier when you switched to 134? The desiccant in the stock (or replacement) Denso drier doesn't hold up to 134, apparently.
Either way, best course is to find the leak and fix it.

 

[aztoyman]

I would think that your seals are pretty fresh IF they were done on your conversion in 2022. If you still have the hoses from the R12 system they don't maintain your charge as well as the newer hose. Supposedly being saturated from a life in mineral oil from the old system helps that.

I have done a ton of conversions on fleet vehicles back in the day. It's not uncommon to have to add to the charge every summer here in AZ but 8 months is kinda soon.
A common source for leaks is the Schrader valves in the charge port so make sure to put a cap with a seal on it. Not just a cap that covers.

If you don't know anybody with a leak detector you can spray soapy water on the connections and look for bubbles. Look for oily spots. I don't know if the products that say they seal leaks really work as I never tried them.

My wife's 2008 FJ cruiser is starting to need a top off about every 8 months now but it's never been into. Seals are getting old.

 

[3_puppies]

don't use stop leak stuff in the a/c system.

if it needs to go to a repair shop that stuff messes with their machine

find and fix the leak if there is one

 

[fjc-man]

Usually with a large or small leak there will be signs of refrigerant oil (mixed with the freon) at the location of the leak. Sometimes the leak will have an accumulation of dust / dirt stuck to the oily spot just like with any other unrepaired oil leak. Do a good visual inspection before you do anything - condenser, hoses,crimps, connections, compressor clutch oily probably is the shaft seal, you get the picture.

 

[vipergrhd]

Get a refrigerant with dye next time you charge, it should pop up where your leak is no matter how small. We have a saying the dye never lies.
Buy a cheap black light kit and use it locating your leak.

 

[meatloaf]

If you don't know anybody with a leak detector you can spray soapy water on the connections and look for bubbles. Look for oily spots. I don't know if the products that say they seal leaks really work as I never tried them.

If the system is pressurized (you added refrigerant), try the soapy water as stated above

 

[MANUCHAO]

If the system has lost its charge... recharge with nitrogen. As stated use a soapy water solution and check for leaks on all fitting connections, hoses...

using nitrogen also helps boil any humidity/non-condensables out of the system.when put on vacuum..
using some pag oil on the correct o-ring and not over-tightening will go a long way...

 

[SteveH]

A leak as large as yours might be found with an electronic leak detector, which a shop might be able to quickly use under the hood and inside. Might save you time up front.

 

[robcgray]

Yeah, it's a very fast leak. Was almost completely gone by the time I drove it again. I am going to replace all the o-rings and the drier. I am guessing at this point it has to be evacuated before recharging. I am trying to decide if I get something like the harbor freight vacuum pump (air supply separate) or if I should take to A/C shop. If my efforts with the o-rings (and valve replacement) don't fix the leak, then money at shop is wasted. If I recharge with moisture in the system, is there any chance something will get broken?

Thanks

 

[Dr. John]

Don't recharge without adequately evacuating the system. Moisture will react with refrigerants and cause corrosion over time. Moisture will accumulate at the expansion valve, freeze, and can close it off. The increased pressure can damage the compressor.

 

[meatloaf]

I agree with @Dr. John above…

what part of the country are you in? Maybe one of the local cruiserhead has a vacuum pump that you can borrow

 

[robcgray]

I agree with @Dr. John above…

what part of the country are you in? Maybe one of the local cruiserhead has a vacuum pump that you can borrow

Jacksonville, FL. Which is the NE corner of the state

 

[meatloaf]

Jacksonville, FL. Which is the NE corner of the state

Maybe posting up here for someone in the FLA area?

FL- Florida Land Cruiser Association

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[robcgray]

I recharged with dye this time. Every serviceable connection is leaking and the compressor is too, darn it. I am buying a rebuilt compressor from JT Outfitters. How hard is it to rebuild these compressors?

 

[aztoyman]

Once you use dye you MUST really clean the areas that got dye on them VERY well. Or you may think you have a leak after you fixed the system.

Your situation sucks but you will have a nice cold system when you're done, learned the system and have the satisfaction of you getting it done right. Good luck with your project.

 

[robcgray]

In another thread

AC Compressors - FJ62/FJ60 10P15C/6P148A Rebuild Info

Hey guys, I thought I would add to this excellent thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-a-c-overhaul-with-denso-10p15c-compressor-rebuild.875933/ The FJ60s I have take the 6P148A, and the FJ62 has the 10P15C, and note that 10P15C is NOT the same as 10PA15C. I know because I missed that...

forum.ih8mud.com

the compressor for the FJ60 is identified. I did a search for "6P148A rebuild kit" and it appears the same compressor was used on Fox body mustangs (may have differences in mounting feet). Anyway, the reSEAL looks fairly simple, but requires a few special tools. There are very good videos of take apart and put back together if anyone is interested.

Engine - Foxbody Mustang A/C Compressor Reseal - Nippon-Denso 6P148A

I plan on rebuilding a factory NipponDenso 6P148A Compressor. This thread will show details of that progress. It will be completed in stages, so I recommend clicking the watch button at the top right to get future updates as this won't be done all at once. Initial thread will be a bit all...

stangnet.com

 

[Dekeman]

Or you can order a real nice reman'd Denso unit (471-0204) for $294 off Amazon. Dump the oil it comes with and add some PAG.

 

[robcgray]

Or you can order a real nice reman'd Denso unit (471-0204) for $294 off Amazon. Dump the oil it comes with and add some PAG.

View attachment 3239744

Darn. Spent $450 at JT Outfitters...

 

[robcgray]

Darn. Spent $450 at JT Outfitters...

Is Denso remanufacturing these? I see it's labeled a product of China.