AC Compressors - FJ62/FJ60 10P15C/6P148A Rebuild Info (1 Viewer)

Jun 7, 2009
Hey guys, I thought I would add to this excellent thread:

The FJ60s I have take the 6P148A, and the FJ62 has the 10P15C, and note that 10P15C is NOT the same as 10PA15C. I know because I missed that little A and bought the wrong seals.

I thought I would add info on the rebuild kits for both of these compressors, and some important tips that I've learned.

First, Make sure you are wearing clean gloves when you handle the shaft seals, both the internal, spring loaded one and the external case seal.

Second, an important note for the the inside shaft seal. That sheet metal on the back of the seal fits in the flats on the shaft.

This is very important, since that inside seal spins with the shaft. I busted the first one before I figured it out.

For the 10P16C, I had to make a SST on my lathe from a 3/4 sched 40 PVC pipe. The ID needs to be 0.936" - this fits outside the main sealing surface, but will engage the sheet metal fingers so you can rotate the seal on the shaft until it fits in the flats on the shaft. This tool is not necessary on the 6P148A because the seals are inside the housing.

I'll try to add a pic of that.

Rock Auto sells a Four Seasons kit that doesn't fit either one of these compressors, and Four Seasons from what I have seen is Junk - the dryer is small Stick with Denso if you can.

The shaft seal is MT2039 - this kit that fits both compressors - the shafts are the same size, I did measure them.
The body seal for the 6P148A is MT2140 (this includes the internal gaskets).
The body seal for the 10P15C is MT2133 (body O-rings and O-ring for the ports.

The clutch pulley bearing is the same for both compressors. Here are some numbers:
62x40x24 mm dimensions:
KOYO 83A551B4
FourSeasons 25224

I used 8oz PAG 46 oil to go back in. Everything I found indicated this was the correct weight for R134A. I also did the best I could to blow the rest of the old oil out of my system.

The torque for both the body bolts and the connectors is 19ft-lbs, and the front shaft nut is 12 ft-lbs.

If you decide you want to pull the back plates off the 6P148A, they are stuck on there with the gaskets, as in seriously stuck.
I seem to recall seeing threaded holes in the plate, and I think this is how you the gasket.
The bolts on the plates are going to nuts on the back side of the plate to hold the valves in place - they do not hold the plate on, and I highly recommend you don't mess with them.
If you do, I figure they take around 60 - 100 oz-in of torque.

I used heat shrink tubing to protect the seal for the shaft. Make sure the tubing long enough to past the keyway by about 1/8", then put oil on the shaft and shrink it to the shaft. Shrink it as far as it will go above the shaft so you can hang on to it and know how far down the shaft to push it. Be sure to oil the inside and outside when you install the shaft seal. I had to remove the seal a couple times, so I put the tubing on and pushed down while using the front cover (10P15C) to pull the seal off.
Jun 7, 2009
This is the SST for the 10P15C Compressor .936" ID - I used the seal to figure out the location and size of the holes, then used a file to create the slots. The fine point felt tip marker body I used to mark the pipe for the holes worked well to stick in one of the ports to keep the shaft from moving.

Sep 29, 2004
Houston, the lower bowel of TX
I have a used 10PA15C compressor sitting in a box. It's a reman that was installed in my FJ62 numerous years ago, last time we tried to charge the system, this compressor pissed all of its oil out. If someone wants a rebuild is yours for the price of shipping.


Jun 7, 2009
Thanks. If that wasn't a 10PA15C, I would take you up on the offer, but that is yet another compressor model, and I know it has a larger body because I bought the O-rings for it instead of the 10P15C.

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